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Looking for Floor Jack and Jack Stand Recommendations
I'm sure recommendations are buried in various threads....but I also know people like to share their preferences. So....
I'm looking to buy my first floor jack and jack stands. Don't want to break the bank....but I'm willing to pay a bit more for something well made that will really last. What should I get? |
Harbor Freight
That's where I'd get 'em from.
(If my next door neighbor doesn't soon return my floor jack and 4 jackstands, that's where I'll have to buy too!:rolleyes:) |
We have Craftsman stands. They do the job just fine, but I would look for ones that don't have a "lip" at either end of the part that the car actually sits on... they can get a little bit in the way on frame rails that are wider than they are (e.g., my W123). As far as floor jacks, I don't know much... I got our neighbor's floor jack when they moved to California, and it seems decent... I'll check the brand and report back to you. I don't really know much about the floor jacks, though, since I got this one for free and didn't have to shop for it.
I would say to skimp on the floor jack rather than the stands because the floor jack doesn't have to hold your car up in the air while you are under it. Also, pass on the creeper and go with a long piece of cardboard (if you want it, a camping mattress for comfort). Cardboard is both cheaper and keeps you further away from the car if it does fall... something that you NEVER want. Also, I tend to prop the jack up under another structural portion of the car so that if the stands somehow fail, the jack should hold the car long enough to scram. |
I have one of these:
Craftsman 4 Ton Floor Jack: Get Great Deals On Tools You Need at Sears and two sets of these: Craftsman Professional 4 -Ton Jack Stands, One Pair - Tools - Mechanics & Auto Tools - Lift Equipment & Jacks I also have scraps of 2x4s and 4x4s to use in different situations. |
Jack stands are pretty much jack stands in my experience, but floor jacks can be a pain. Some of those Harbor freight jacks last forever, and others are just lousy right out of the box.
A few years ago, I was at a tire shop and noticed that every floor jack there was an Arcan low-profile XL 3.5 ton exactly like the ones Costco has sold for a while for around $99. The employees were dragging them all over outside, and generally beating the crap out of them, but they reported no problems with them. I went out and purchased one for myself after that. I could not be happier with it. The only downside I see to this jack is that once it's on the floor, it stays there. The thing must weigh between 80 and 100 pounds, so you certainly don't want to try to keep it in your trunk. |
Thanks, guys. Any thoughts on differences between pin design and ratchet design on stands. I'm sure ratchet is safe....but somehow pin seems safer.
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pin is safer, but boy is it inconvenient. My biggest complaint about it is that you end up struggling getting the correct pin lined up often partially under the vehicle, or dragging it out endlessly to re set, whereas a ratchet you just put up.
Ultimately, my opinion is that pin style is probably safer if the car is sitting on stands for a long time and you will be doing things to it that are violent, but less safe in setting up because its a bit harder to set up fast. Ratchet seems perfectly safe to me also though, never had a ratchet stand come down or break, and ive done some violent stuff with a car on ratchet stands. also x 2 or 3 on the harbor freight floor jack, ive abused mine pretty bad, and its still working well. |
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I have jackstands from 30+ years ago from Sears that are pin-style. Then, I have two newer ones also pin-style from I believe Chief Auto Parts here in Dallas, TX. now out of business. All, are each 2-ton stands, if I recall correctly. I'll post pics - if I can get them back from Alex, my car dealer neighbor........;) I would think the ratchet ones easier to use, and likely heavier duty, but that's a guess on my part..... |
Always put a piece of scrap plywood between the jack stand and the car for a non slip interface.
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there are some that have the ratchet mechanism, along with the pin for extra safety if the ratchet fails
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Well made and will last?
AC Hydraulic DK13HLQ, AC Hydrhaulic DK20Q, AC Hydraulic DK20 - ACJacks.com I have the DK 20Q. Bought it in a group buy from another list many moons ago. One of the best purchases I ever made. Highly recommended. Rgds, Chris W. '95 E300D, 400K |
I have a set of the four of the 6 ton Harbor Freight stands from when I had a truck and they still work great. I have a michelin floor jack that my brother bought me for a birthday present years ago from either Costco or Sams Club which has also held up very well. Both of these are major overkill for a W123 since they are designed for use on trucks but they do the job.
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Ill second the Arcan xl 35 i love mine! It was only ten pounds heavier than the comparable aluminum "racejack" and has an extra ton of capacity plus twin lift cylinders. I had a Torin big red 2.5 for many years and it was great (we have a few big trucks). Nice and wide but about 100lbs. Front seal blew out and it puked all its oil.
I went to the store to buy another big red and a few things changed my mind 1: it s lighter 2: the sales rep said he sees about 1 in 200 Torins returned for maintenance whereas with Arcan that number is more like 1 in 800 and 3: I had my truck inspected on the way to northern and every jack in the inspection shop was a very abused looking Arcan to which the inspection guy gave good comments As far as stands Ill use anything that feels solid I currently have a set of four ton levers I got used from a friend. |
I use a Rousch Racing jack, and Harbor Freight jack stands.
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I've got my grandfather's S&R from the 40's still working great, I also had a Big red that has never let me down, but I loaned it out and never got it back... cruddy neighbors...
my jack stands seem to walk away also, I use the 6 ton ratchet style, and the 12 ton ratchet style, and the 3 ton ratchet style. I always stablize the vehicle before preforming work, and I always have a backup to catch if something goes wrong. as for floor jack, remember, ALWAYS use the jack where it can roll as you lift, or where the vehicle can roll as you lift. it's an arc lift device, so it WILL slip off if neither can roll... also, remember, as you lower onto jackstands, the vehicle will arc away so monitor the stands' position as you lower... |
I have one HF Floor jack that bleeds off, going in the dumpster one of these days. I bought a 2 1/2 to jack back about 82, and it was made in Japan and has never given me a problem and I have used the heck out of it.
The last two I got at Costco are 3 1/3 ton, and paid $99 each. great floor jacks and are a low profile. I have 2 3 ton ratchet Jack Stands. I have two 3/4" rods that fit into the jack Holes, and have a 15deg bend to make them level. I jack up the car, and then set the jack Stands on these. works great. then there isn`t the problem as to where to place the stands under the vehicle. Now if you have rusted out jack Holes, this this will not work. There was that story a year or so back, where this young guy was under his BMW, and the Ratchet Jack Stand dropped. they think he may have bumped the handle when under the car. any one remember that one? Charlie |
I've always had good luck with jacks and stands from HF. The only piece that ever crapped out on me was one of the aluminum "racing" jacks.
The ACH jacks are so drool-worthy. If only I had the $$$ Quote:
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Properly set and built ratchets shouldn't drop without lifting the post. Both of my sets require almost a 1" lift to disengage the mechanism. Partially engaged and that's anyone's guess. Hard to do but with a poor forging on the post i could see a perfect storm where a slip might occur.
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I fail to see how a ratcheting stand can fail without a sledgehammer hitting the lift handle... and I don't even think THAT would dump a car load because the shear pin would break before lifting the car off the stand enough to release the load...
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I bought my aluminum racing jack from Summit.It for low profile vehicles too.I have kids all the time wanting to borrow it to lift their lowered cars. The jackstands I will buy from Sears.I don't trust my life with Chinese steel
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I have only gravel, dirt, and lawn on my farm. Is there any safe way to put my car up?
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shertex,
Too bad you're not in Sherman Texas as I think of every time I see your moniker. If you were, I have a floor jack and jack stands I would give you. Since I put in my lift they have just been in my way. BTW, they are all Harbor Freight that I got probably about 22 years or so ago and still work fine. |
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It's a hassle, but you can use a length of 2 X 12 to put the floor jack on and distribute the load. I've done it out in the field working on farm equipment. You have to be careful though. Hope this helps. |
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gravel I have steel plates for my small jack stands I put down..I had gravel too
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I use my arcan on gravel seems to work ok. Plywood is your friend on dirt. Thats what i mean about levers dropping you would have to have the dog barely toothed in for a failure. Once they're set they're set.
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I've got two sets of stands that I got from the Advanced Auto Parts store. A 3 ton and a 2 ton. Then I've got 2 floor jacks. One a small red craftsman I think.. and the other a big yellow one from HF. All of it works well and I've not had any problems. The HF jack's release valve is not all that graceful but it works.
What I really want is a nice home garage type lift. Maybe one of those MaxJax things. But you know by the time I get around to actually buying and installing that I wont have a need for it. |
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They have a cruise night in that area and show old movies in the theater occasionally, so I have seen a few of the antique shops there. |
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If you buy a lift, don't settle for anything besides a Two Post. They allow you to do most anything under a car. A four post is not NEARLY as versatile. |
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All you need to do is break past the idea that buying a lift for yourself is a crazy move. Best thing ive ever done, after getting hosed on some work vehicle repairs, I was sick of paying through the nose, so I decided I was going to do most of my own maintenance instead. Within a week, I had bought a 12k two post out of a closing auto shop for 700 bucks, cost me another 500 to have it put up by an insured team, and a few hundred to transport it down, still, less than 2k and I have a 2 post in my workspace behind a bunch of appliances that can lift a full size pickup. :D Ive saved more than that in maintenance costs I can do myself now in the 2.5 years ive had it, so its been a good investment. The only downside, is if you have a project car, it starts to live on the lift. |
No sweat jb, just raise the project car and park your daily driver underneath.:)
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Even the Sears Floor jacks are made in China, look on the box they come in. Charlie |
You don`t need no wimpy jacks, when a big 4x4 will do just fine.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2271796-post7.html Charlie |
I was searching for the article I mentioned above of the jack slipping and falling on the guy. there is a ton of info on this happening on the following thread. This post in the thread shows the Pin type of jack Stand which I believe is the safer of the two type of jacks. the ratchet type are the only one`s that seem to be sole.
The Pin type stand has a flat base instead of the 3 or four legs most have and looks much sturdier. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2672374-post7.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/general-information/294952-man-crushed-working-car.html#post2672374 Charlie |
I have to admit that I have a pair of 2-1/2 ton ratchet stands that I picked up from NAPA a few years back for about $80... Far more than the Harbor Freight stands cost even today. I use them almost exclusively when I had to be under a car. Why? Well, the warning labels aren't in Engrish, and they were made in Taiwan. I just trust Taiwan steel more than China steel, and I didn't want to be the guy that dies under a car when a stand that has "Al ways whear saftedy glassses" printed on it lets go and gets me crushed.
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For a lift jack, Arcan. Yes, it weighs nearly 100 lbs but for the money, it's hard to beat and close to bulletproof. I also work in gravel and sandy soil a lot so a good sheet of 3/4"x2'x2' plywood does the trick for jacking.
For jack stands, I currently use Torin but as expected, they tend to sink in the sandy soil. However, I have had my eye on these: Hein-Werner Jack Stands — 3-Ton Capacity, 2-Pk., Model# HW93503 | Jack Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment They have a small tab enclosing the bottom of the leg to slow down the "sinking". Made in the U.S.A. to boot. These are nice but twice the price: ESCO Jack Stand — 3-Ton Capacity, Model# 10498 | Jack Stands| Northern Tool + Equipment |
I looked at aluminum jacks of many flavors but they dont inspire much faith unless your price budget is $250+. I believe my current weighs about 70-80# which isnt light but has two easy lift points. Some things i would rather be heavy, lifting and rigging fall into that category.
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Thanks guys. Getting a little old to crawl under the car
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Talk about Aleee I can't get down,because I need help getting up.Everything hurts.Going to the bathroom the first thing in the morning kills me.I need a bed pan.Until my pain meds take hold.Getting old is not for sissy's
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I'm another one who has used a Harbor Freight floor jack for about 12 years with good results. I use auto-parts store ratchet jack stands rated for about 5000 lbs, I figure even if they're not really up to that kind of weight they should be plenty strong enough to hold up a corner of any of my cars.
When I take a wheel off to go under the car, I put the whole wheel under the car too at a spot the car could theoretically rest on if the jack fails. Once I get the car sitting on the jack stand, I put the floor jack back on somewhere nearby so it can support the car if the jack stand fails. |
While it's probably better than I need, the Arcan ALJ3T looks like a good choice....$207. About the last thing in the world where I'd be concerned about saving money. And maybe some Torin stands...or maybe not...some bad reviews.
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Now what i would love to see is a ratchet lock integrated into the side of a floor jack. Seems simple enough to engineer and no repositioning needed.
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I replaced my Sears jack, worked well for years , with an aluminium HF unit. It has two pistons, one of which needed persuasion to release, has, so far so good, but won't buy one again. I have two jack stands that came with the Sears unit and have purchased another pair. One set is taller than the other, oh well. I use a chunk of 4x4 on the pad to both raise the lift and to be nice to the car. |
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Bottom piece of bread is the jackstand, the ham in the middle is the plywood, upper piece of bread is the cars jack point. Yummy :D I like 3/4" ply wood. Ply wood takes the guess work out of what type of solid wood to use, grain, whether it's going to split on you or not. |
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I bought the Arcan Hybrid floor jack at Costco. The best jack I've used. Totally smooth to release, no sudden drop, and quick to raise, 3.5 pumps and it's at full rise. Well built, by far worth more than the $99 price.
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