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#31
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Quote:
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87 300SDL |
#32
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Spent my Sunday cleaning the contact points on the drivers side power door switch and doing a little seat noodle repair. I opened the switch up inside a cardboard box to make certain I didn't lose any bearings or springs, and I've included a photo of the switch right before I reassembled as a reference.
The switch regained some functionality, the seat now moves forward and backward (which was my main concern), the raise/lower function doesn't seem to be working, although I can hear the motor when the switch is engaged. The headrest switch does nothing at all when engaged, so I'm not sure what's going on there. If I have time today, I'll put the drivers side door panel back on, and get started on the passenger side switch. Also, I found $1.86 underneath the front seat when I took it out for the noodle insertion, so yeah, you could say it was a good weekend... |
#33
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Had to comment on the strings as well
Used to play the 13-56 D'Addarios as well in my old band, string of choice. Little bit lighter in my new band though... Best of luck on your restoration! Wish I had the ambition and resources to do the same... would love an SDL with the 603 turbo.
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1981 300SD - 283,000 KM's at purchase, 360k+ now. Engine replaced at 311k. 16" CLK wheels, w126 gen II cosmetic upgrades, late w126 leather interior. RIP. Parted and gone due to fire 1987 300SDL - 243K miles and counting. In winter hibernation! 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty "Platinum Edition" Lariat 4x4 7.3L turbo diesel, 295k+ miles, various mods for reliability and performance. |
#34
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Blower Motor Squirrel Cage Liberation
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The guitar strings in the photo certainly seem to be getting a lot of attention! Maybe I'll start playing again after I get this Merc where I want it to be, but for the time being, I'm too involved in this to think about much else. It's turned out to be really nice though, b/c there's a level of satisfaction that comes with doing something like cleaning switches and knowing that they are clean and done that I don't get from my professional life. (there are no finished jobs in advertising, just campaigns that run on forever) Anyway, after some sweating and cursing, I managed to get the blower motor assembly out the other day, to discover that the blue lead running to it had snapped off at the motor. Seeing as this part is likely 25 years old and isn't too expensive, I'm inclined to replace the entire motor rather than repair the lead only to have the motor fail in 6 months. My problem is, I can't figure out how to get the motor out of the squirrel cage. I've seen and read a few DIY articles that suggest using a hammer and punch to knock the motor out, but it seems like I run the risk of cracking the cage if I go this route. Is there any other way to get the motor out of the squirrel cage, or is banging it out my best option? |
#35
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On post 20, the hose you fixed would be for the turbo. If this hose is missing or broken, then the turbo will not function properly. So, most likely you were running without the turbo working.
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05 SL600 75K 87 MB 560SL 119K 87 MB 300D 180K 83 MB 240D 110K 64 1/2 Mustang 74 Monte Carlo 32K 75 Fiat 124 Spyder 16 Equinox 15 2500HD Silverado |
#36
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That would explain the extra pep I felt after repairing it. |
#37
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Does anyone have any recommendations for a good indy in CT? I'm in New London county, and I'd like to establish a relationship with a local shop. I'm lurking and learning a lot on this board, and I'm comfortable doing a lot of work myself, but I'd like to know where I can go if I'm not.
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87 300SDL |
#38
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Good Indy Mechanics In New London County?
anybody?
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87 300SDL |
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