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  #1  
Old 08-10-2013, 10:31 AM
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Restoring My Father's 1987 300SDL

I've been a lurker here periodically for the last few years, and it's been my go-to spot for any questions about my 300SDL since the day I got it.

Two days ago I finally decided to do something real about the 1987 300SDL that has been sitting in my driveway for the last few years.

I picked the car up in New England in 2009, and after having it looked at by a mechanic, drove it to the west coast without issue.

The engine has always persistent knock that diminishes once it's been running for a bit.

I drove it around as a daily driver (30 miles/day maximum) for about a year, before I moved back to New England, and shipped the car here.

For most of 2010-11 it was a semi-daily driver, but it's been sitting in the driveway since the winter of 2012, and has only been started a handful of times since.

I am extremely mechanically inclined, although I'm inexperienced in many areas, and I lack the tools and time I'd need to perform a lot of work on the vehicle myself.

I've decided that I'd like to restore this car to it's former glory, and I'm able to commit around $1000/month to this project for professional repairs, in addition to whatever minor work I'm able to complete myself.

After destroying the yellowjacket nest that in the drivers side door cavity (only stung 3 times!), and getting the hood open despite the fact that the interior hood release lever is gone (thank you PeachParts!), I've put a new battery in, and now I need to determine what to do next.

I know a lot of you folks have extensive experience with restoring the w126, and I thought I'd reach out for suggestion as to where I should begin, and what I should examine first.

I'm going to post some pictures here of the interior, exterior, and engine compartment in a few minutes, and hopefully chronicle the entire process.

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  #2  
Old 08-10-2013, 12:41 PM
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Ok, as promised, here are the pics: Legacy's 1987 300SDL

I tried to get some close up shots of the engine, especially where it's leaking oil, but I think I'll need to get in close, and hang a light in order to come up with anything worthwhile.

The car started fine, and there was plenty of oil in it, so I think I'm going to go get that changed, and get the radiator flushed while I've still got a little time in the day.

Last edited by Legacy; 08-11-2013 at 02:26 PM.
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  #3  
Old 08-10-2013, 01:01 PM
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Where in New England are you?
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #4  
Old 08-10-2013, 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Where in New England are you?
I'm in CT. Maybe an hour from Providence.
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  #5  
Old 08-10-2013, 01:20 PM
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For starters, I know a first rate body shop within striking distance that will do an excellent paint job on an SDL for about $1700. I know this because I priced a paint job on my last SDL. Just got my 92 back from the guy....he painted the roof and trunk and repaired jack point rust. As always, did an excellent job. What he charges is always very fair.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #6  
Old 08-10-2013, 01:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
For starters, I know a first rate body shop within striking distance that will do an excellent paint job on an SDL for about $1700. I know this because I priced a paint job on my last SDL. Just got my 92 back from the guy....he painted the roof and trunk and repaired jack point rust. As always, did an excellent job. What he charges is always very fair.
See? This is exactly the kind of information I was hoping to get!

Awesome.

$1700 seems like a good price if the work is quality, I was prepared (although not excited), to go farther than that if I needed to.

I need to find out what the deal is with this knock, and give it a general once over now, I guess.

I'm thinking that generally a paint job would be the last part of a restoration project, but as the car is running, I'd maybe like to get that done sooner than last.
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Old 08-10-2013, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Legacy View Post
See? This is exactly the kind of information I was hoping to get!

Awesome.

$1700 seems like a good price if the work is quality, I was prepared (although not excited), to go farther than that if I needed to.

I need to find out what the deal is with this knock, and give it a general once over now, I guess.

I'm thinking that generally a paint job would be the last part of a restoration project, but as the car is running, I'd maybe like to get that done sooner than last.
Yes....to a point it makes sense to work from the inside out.

Re mechanical stuff, I'm sure you have places closer to you, but best MB teach I know of within a 100 miles of me is in Tiverton, RI. Very reasonable labor rate, too.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #8  
Old 08-10-2013, 01:33 PM
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As far as easy things to do first....REMOVE THE ALDA.
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #9  
Old 08-10-2013, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by shertex View Post
As far as easy things to do first....REMOVE THE ALDA.
So, no adjustment, just get it out of there?

After digging around, I see a lot of people suggesting that the ALDA adjustment/removal only be done after the engine has been tuned, to avoid problems with the injection pumps.

The last thing I had done to this car in 2010 was a partial IP replacement. I think 3/6 are "new" at this point.
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  #10  
Old 08-10-2013, 03:16 PM
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If you're careful, you can bend that antenna (ever so slightly) until it retracts fully......
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  #11  
Old 08-10-2013, 03:19 PM
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Originally Posted by giff View Post
If you're careful, you can bend that antenna (ever so slightly) until it retracts fully......
Thanks Giff!

The antenna assembly itself isn't working, unfortunately.

However, one of the things my father left in the trunk was an aftermarket antenna assembly that he had purchased and never installed.

I'm pretty sure it's in a closet somewhere at this point, I'll have to dig around for it.
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  #12  
Old 08-10-2013, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Legacy View Post
So, no adjustment, just get it out of there?

After digging around, I see a lot of people suggesting that the ALDA adjustment/removal only be done after the engine has been tuned, to avoid problems with the injection pumps.

The last thing I had done to this car in 2010 was a partial IP replacement. I think 3/6 are "new" at this point.
Read the threads....you'll see that there are two schools of thought. On the 603s I've had, it was removed altogether. At least take it off and see if there's a noticeable difference in performance. Then you can decide whether to leave off or simply adjust.
__________________
14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #13  
Old 08-10-2013, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
Read the threads....you'll see that there are two schools of thought. On the 603s I've had, it was removed altogether. At least take it off and see if there's a noticeable difference in performance. Then you can decide whether to leave off or simply adjust.
I should do this before or after having the compression/IP/timing chain checked etc?

I'm in the mood to do it right now, honestly, but I understand that that's what everybody says when they first hear about the ALDA removal...
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  #14  
Old 08-10-2013, 03:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Legacy View Post
I should do this before or after having the compression/IP/timing chain checked etc?

I'm in the mood to do it right now, honestly, but I understand that that's what everybody says when they first hear about the ALDA removal...
The only "harm" you could do is make some black smoke if you overfuel. If you don't have any reason to believe anything else is wrong, it would be fun to satisfy curiosity....and make sure you report back! We love ALDA transformation stories!!
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14 E250 Bluetec "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 153k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 171k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver, 142k mi, wastegate conversion

19 Honda CR-V EX 61k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #15  
Old 08-10-2013, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
The only "harm" you could do is make some black smoke if you overfuel. If you don't have any reason to believe anything else is wrong, it would be fun to satisfy curiosity....and make sure you report back! We love ALDA transformation stories!!
I took it for a drive a little while ago, and it was pretty much exactly the way I remembered it. Sluggish acceleration, to the point that entering the highway from a short ramp is slightly unnerving, and then, once it gets up to 70 or so, it drives like dream.

If the ALDA removal can improve the acceleration to something better than "obviously an old diesel" speed...I'm seriously tempted to get rid of it ASAP.

This thread is great for ALDA removal tips/advice. Where do you fall on the boost gauge necessity?


Last edited by Legacy; 08-10-2013 at 04:20 PM.
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