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  #1  
Old 08-13-2013, 04:05 AM
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Effects of switching from green to G-05 coolant?

I have read many many threads on the differences but I have not seen any that have talked about, if anyone experienced any effects negative or good from switching out the green coolant to the g-05?

When I bought my car it had green coolant in it, and then I flushed everything and replaced the radiator....I put green back in it....its been less then a 2 years....I have been wanting to do a flush and refill as the car was so neglected and I opted to put in the correct g-05 this time...no idea how long green has been used in it...

I was surprised how long it took to get the hose water clear, I was also surprised to see some rust colored water come out....I was even more shocked to see my heater core water was as rusty as it was when I did the first flush....

So now I am curious if the famous g-05 will net me any effects negative or good...at least ones I might see...

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Old 08-13-2013, 05:36 AM
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The only effect I've noticed is peace of mind.
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  #3  
Old 08-13-2013, 01:16 PM
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NONE, ZERO, ZILCH, NADA. In short no difference.

Except you will be lighter - money-wise.
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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

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  #4  
Old 08-13-2013, 01:29 PM
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It leaves a white residue on whatever it gets spilled or dripped
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  #5  
Old 08-13-2013, 01:45 PM
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If you plan to keep the car, switch it to NPG. I just did my standby generator, and it seems to work fine. It can also be run at zero pressure and boils at 370*, so no more worries about overheating. It also eliminates problems with electrolysis, corrosion, and cavitation. It's a little pricey, but you only have to do it once. I'll probably do my signature car when the next AF change is due. www.evanscooling.com.
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  #6  
Old 08-13-2013, 04:08 PM
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A difference that you can see? Not as far as I know.

Everyone has to make their own call on fluids. Some people would have you believe that your wheel bearings will seize solid and your family pets will all run away if you use anything except the Mercedes wheel bearing grease. I have a container of Lucas high temp that says otherwise.

That said, I have always used the correct coolant, even back in the days before G-05, when I had to go see Uncle Merciless at the parts counter to buy the factory stuff. From my point of view, being able to get the correct coolant at a chain store now is a bonus.

If you plan to change it every two years and you use the correct mix, it may make no difference. If after this change you plan to leave it in, I'd suggest for the price difference why take a flyer on Prestone?

I can tell you that I have been on Mercedes forums and discussion lists since 1995 and on every one, the people with the most experience -- and the mechanics present -- regarded the use of the correct coolant as religion, more so than anything else (synthetic vs dino, gear oil, etc.).
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
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  #7  
Old 08-13-2013, 04:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phillytwotank View Post
It leaves a white residue on whatever it gets spilled or dripped
That explains the white splatters on my valve cover....I was curious what caused it....my bleeder bolt is frozen solid so I have to pull the lower hose and fill it....some hit the ac pulley, and start up slung it all over..
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:16 PM
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if you have rust, you have sediment that's not been cleaned out.

period.

putting in the proper coolant will not make ANY difference if there is already contaminants present.

only way to see benefits from the correct coolant is to citric flush and drain EVERYTHING! pull the block drain, flush it TOTALLY CLEAN, pull the monovalve, and get all passages free of any sediment, pull the hoses to the heater core, and flush that, and

REMOVE ALL TAP WATER from the car.

flush with distilled once all traces of sediment, and rust are clean.

THEN after that's drained, you can fill with the proper mixture for your climate of DISTILLED water and G05/MB coolant, and IF you drain and flush and fill every 2 years, it'll be pristine for the rest of the vehicle's life.

if you do the same and use GREEN, it'll be fine, pristine and will last equally long.
on the turbo cars with the plastic tanks, it's said the G05 will better protect the plastic... YMMV
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"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
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1987 190D 2.5Turbo
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  #9  
Old 08-13-2013, 05:07 PM
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^^^^ agreed on all that, I am totally paranoid to try a citrus flush on this car, it has the evil servo system with the miles of piping and the car has sat for at least 20 years of its life....when I change the coolant, I pull as many hoses as I can and hook up a high pressure nozzle on the garden hose, that's as far as I want to go....I just know doing a citrus flush will kill the heater core...
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Old 08-13-2013, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
^^^^ agreed on all that, I am totally paranoid to try a citrus flush on this car, it has the evil servo system with the miles of piping and the car has sat for at least 20 years of its life....when I change the coolant, I pull as many hoses as I can and hook up a high pressure nozzle on the garden hose, that's as far as I want to go....I just know doing a citrus flush will kill the heater core...
Maybe a 36 year old car could use a new heater core? I've had heater cores malfunction @ less than 1/2 that age.
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  #11  
Old 08-13-2013, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
if you have rust, you have sediment that's not been cleaned out.

period.

putting in the proper coolant will not make ANY difference if there is already contaminants present.

only way to see benefits from the correct coolant is to citric flush and drain EVERYTHING! pull the block drain, flush it TOTALLY CLEAN, pull the monovalve, and get all passages free of any sediment, pull the hoses to the heater core, and flush that, and

REMOVE ALL TAP WATER from the car.

flush with distilled once all traces of sediment, and rust are clean.

THEN after that's drained, you can fill with the proper mixture for your climate of DISTILLED water and G05/MB coolant, and IF you drain and flush and fill every 2 years, it'll be pristine for the rest of the vehicle's life.

if you do the same and use GREEN, it'll be fine, pristine and will last equally long.
on the turbo cars with the plastic tanks, it's said the G05 will better protect the plastic... YMMV
This sounds like the proper approach to me.......
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  #12  
Old 08-13-2013, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
Maybe a 36 year old car could use a new heater core? I've had heater cores malfunction @ less than 1/2 that age.
Probably can but what I have heard....heater cores have gone the way of the dodo bird and the radiators are following....simply put they are dust in the wind....
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  #13  
Old 08-13-2013, 06:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cooljjay View Post
Probably can but what I have heard....heater cores have gone the way of the dodo bird and the radiators are following....simply put they are dust in the wind....
um... what?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #14  
Old 08-13-2013, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
um... what?
I think he means parts availability/cost/quality issues.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #15  
Old 08-13-2013, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
I think he means parts availability/cost/quality issues.
Yes more normal way of putting it....the non turbo radiators are NLA and the few out there are 550$ plus....I paid 140$ for my behr replacement to years ago....I am sure if a heater core could be located it would be with in that same figure....and face it, if I have to tare the dash out of the car for a heater core replacement....I am putting in a manual system..

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