11.88 is too low to start the car. 12.68 is too low for charging but you should check it at around 2k and not idle.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Ok ill go now and check the voltage. I have a new voltage regulator on hand. Maybe I should just check to see the brushes aren't badly worn?

I'll go check the readings first. My car doesn't have rpm reading. i'll have to ball park it.

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1984 300td euro turbo

At about 2k ( probably a bit higher) it got up to 13.5 volts. How's that?

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1984 300td euro turbo

Its your starter! A bad starter will take out a good battery! It may be the connections, but if the starter is original to the car...which I assume it is.....ITS THE STARTER......

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I'm hoping it's not the starter since I hear it's a pain in the butt to change. The car is starting every time I try now. Is it possible that the battery jump I got yesterday charged the battery enough where it's starting fine but eventually will lose it's charge and not be able to start the car again?

Not sure what to do now. I have no problem getting the starter changed. I just want to make sure that's the issue.

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1984 300td euro turbo

Do the easy stuff first. Charge up the battery then go to Autozone to get the battery and alt tested. Unplug the glow plug relay before the test otherwise it will test bad even if it's good.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Ok I'm going now. Quick question funola. If the battery and alt are ok, then the only thing left is the starter correct?

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1984 300td euro turbo

OK the guy told me that my battery is good but it has no charge. So he's going to charge the battery and then check the alternator. So just hang in out at auto zone.

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1984 300td euro turbo

So they told me that the alternator is not providing enough power. They got the same results that I posted in 15

I'm going to check the voltage regulator.

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1984 300td euro turbo

You are doing exactly what I did on my SD. I'm so sorry about your starter.

Pull it, mail it to me, I'll take it to the rebuild place, might be 40 or 50 bucks.

I have a theory on the jumping of the wires. Earlier in the demise of the starting system, between the time you turned the key to start and it failed and the time you popped the hood, located an appropriate bridge, found the appropriate wires to jump, and made the connection----the starter cooled enough to fire.

Just a theory...again, I have no idea what I'm doing.

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77' 300D, "Cartman" SOLD @ 150K (didn't know what I had)
83' 300SD, "The Superdon" 325k+ @ 28mpg
95 E320 wagon, "Millennium Falcon" 231k+ @ 24 Mpg
95 E300D, "Sherley" 308k @ 33.69 Mpg, currently anticipating a head
99 Suzuki Intruder "Trudy" @ 45 mpg

Thanks so much! I don't have the time to have it rebuilt. I have to move the car basically everyday because of street cleaning.

I'm going to check/replace the voltage regulator. Isn't it possible that the battery isn't getting enough juice so eventually it can't power the starter? Couldn't that just be my problem? Though that wouldn't make sense why it won't start when the car is hot...

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1984 300td euro turbo

Two years ago Autozone told me the same thing. My alternator was toast but they could sell me a new one.

I went to another Autozone, and the guy I got was a car guy. He checked battery & alternator and said there was no problem. He was right - I still have same battery & alternator. Moral - get a second opinion!

That was on a different car (E320) where low voltage during starting can cause all sorts of errors.

On my 85 300D, I had intermittent no-starts just as described. Changed ignition switch and neutral switch with no improvement. I have never changed alternator or regulator and have owned car for 21 years. Problem was starter - bad spots on commutator and likely worn bushings. Worn bushings can cause armature to drag on field coils making it difficult for motor to rotate and drawing high current, perhaps running battery down.

I would take car to a proper auto-electric shop. They can quite easily check out your starter without removing it.

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Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5

I think this is worthy of a poll....

Alternator?????

Starter?????

Having the same symptoms, and also having a car that didn't charge the battery....I can tell you its the starter....my car started almost every day for a little over a month with the alternator not charging the battery because I accidentally unplugged the battery light....you would have to have a serious draw from the electrical to cause the battery to go dead over night....I have even left my head lights on for two days and the car started fine....

13.5v while the car is driving is fine to charge the battery....the more charged the battery is, the less voltage going to the battery....

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Cooljay. I'm with ya. I think it's the starter too now... I'm still in the denial stage.

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1984 300td euro turbo

Could be poor electrical connections in the system (internal or external to the starter) that is sensitive to heat (expansion/ contraction).

1. Did you clean the external connections?

2. What connections did you clean?

3. How did you clean them?

4. Can you turn the alternator pulley by hand and slip it against the belt? If yes, it will not charge properly. Tighten belt.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked