I just started the engine after replacing the oil cooler lines on the SD. The lower (tructec brand made in Germany) is leaking at oil cooler the fitting. Apparently the surfaces aren't mating as they are supposed to.

I disconnected the leaking fitting, checked both surfaces for contamination and reinstalled. I tightened as much as I was comfortable but didn't want to strip the cooler. I also turned the line as I tightened the nut hoping that it would seat better. (works on Cummins fuel injection line) It is still leaking.

Anyone have any sealant or methodology that would be acceptable?

This is a compression fitting and is normally installed dry with no sealant.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Clean both surfaces with one of those green scrubby things you use at the kitchen sink. Re-assemble.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Check the threads on the oil cooler fitting...you may have damaged a few removing the old line, very common on the w123....if that is the case it won't seal, you will need to install a new fitting....though some people have used jb weld on the fitting and then screwed and tighten the line...

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The old fitting came off easily. I was thankful because they can be a pita. The original leak on the old lines was from the crimp.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

W123 or W126 same set up, aluminum cooler threads and steel fitting for the cooler line fitting.

The sealing surface is the Ball and the Socket. Socket being the Cooler, could have a gouge in the surface not making the seal. or the ball end wasn`t machined well for the fit. As Kerry mentioned, a Scrubber might do the trick.


The threads don`t do the sealing, they keep it tight.
Using JB Weld will definitely seal it, but probably won`t come apart again.

If the old lined didn`t leak, I would guess it is the new line being the problem.


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I cleaned with scotch brite, then oooo steel wool and brake cleaner on clean rag. It still leaks.

The bottom line is the out to the filter. Would a very little black RTV be safe if applied to the ball? Is there something better? I have some Ultra Copper handy and JBWeld. I'd prefer not JB in case it needs to come apart.

Agreed, seal is the ball & socket.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

^^ That would be a bad idea.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

And what might be a good idea?

I've never had this type of joint refuse to seal. Cummins injector lines are similar with higher pressure. Usually, scotch brite and torq takes care of it.

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

Put a Copper Crush washer between the Ball and the Socket. You can get a Copper Washer assortment at Harbor Freight.

A Hydraulic Shop would likely have a Crush Washer if you explain to the how the sealing is done.

Heat the Copper Crush Washer till it is red hot and let it cool; that softens it.

Actually even some thick Paper Gasket Material with the appropriate sized hole in the Middle would work.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Using a different line would be a good idea. Absent any evidence that the oil cooler (male) fitting was damaged by recent work, then the machining on the new hose end is the likely culprit. No good in the long run comes from making a defective part work.

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'79 240D

One of our other Members had the same issue. But, I can't remember the details.

Could it be that the Hose Hut is so deep that the Nut is hitting the Oil Cooler before the Ball does?
If that is the case if there is room and it can be done without damaging the Ball you could file the Nut down so it is not so Long/Deep.

I would be writing the Seller and Tructec an informative Letter about their Product and the problems it caused. It could be they would refund some Money.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I am speculating that the Nut that is on the Hose is too long. I just measured Nut from a W123 Oil Cooler Hose end and it is 1/2 Inch long.

If the Nut was 3/4 inch long the Nut might bottom out on the Hex of the Oil Cooler where you put the back up Wrench.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

The nut isn't too long. There is plenty of room to get the back up wrench in. 3 out of 4 connections sealed. I thought the line may have been cocking so that the ball & socket didn't mate correctly.

I was careful to get the nut started and pull the ball back then move the line to see if it would seat in the nut better/straight. I can't tell any difference 1 way or the other.

I'll disassemble once more, clean & reinstall. Then, I'll use a gasket or washer of break down and JB it. I won't go to the trouble of pulling the line again unless it won't quit leaking.

I'm headed out to prep for a bike ride. We have ~600 riders coming to town this weekend & we need to be set up for registration which opens at 6:00 tomorrow. I'll even get to ride this year - 1st time in a long time.

Any other ideas? I think we've exhausted but....

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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.

I recently bought a Trcktec oil cooler line. I hope I don't have the same issue.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Even if you JB Weld it on You can still remove it. JB Weld is rated at up to about 250 degrees F; after that it starts to melt.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel