Rear Trailing Arm Failure
 

I just had the passenger side rear trailing arm just failed, cracked.

I drive a 300td (wagon), can I use the same trailing arm from a sedan, or do I need one expressly for the wagon?

If not, I can't find a trailing arm for sale new, anybody know a good source for finding one?

I believe the arms are the same. I'd look for one from the southwest from a salvage yard.

Awesome sauce. I'll see what I can find.

Last time I saw a new one listed it like $1,200.00. :eek:

The one`s from PNP are around $50, you pull. then the backing Plates are always bent, they take off the wheels and set the cars on the ground before they set them in line on the stands. so you will have to use your old plate.

Charlie

I had 2 shipped from a Salvage Yard CA and the Backing Plates were also bent. I blamed it on poor packaging and shipping. But, you have a different explanation.

I just pounded it back in shape and used it.
The ones I got had the E Brake Cables still on the and the E Brakes.

Thanks for the helpful feedback, I'm going to start shopping for parts tomorrow!

I should have said, that they aren`t gentle when they are moving the cars around. they really slam them down on the ground, even seen a couple broken Rotors from their abuse in the yards. Some of the Backing Plates are really bent bad.

When removing a Trailing Arm, be sure to leave the cable on, and not cut it off. they are a PITA to get one back in for the Parking Brake.

Charlie

^
What he said! :wallbash:

Phil Forrest

been there done that on the 126! 123 might be compatible too..

http://i.imgur.com/GFloIQW.png

on our gold sd
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/303427-w126-trailing-arm-rear-lower-control-arm-rebuilt-replacement.html

and this on our green sd
1982 Mercedes 300SD Rear Control Arm Replacement - Imgur

sold a few
 

I've sold a few trailing arms to various forum members.......http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/2485903-post23.html

I have two good trailing arms available in Austin, TX.

Shipping might be a deal killer though.

If you can verify the Wheel Bearings are OK that might sweeten the Deal a bit.
You might get some idea of the shipping by looking on Ebay.

Hub flanges and bearings have all been removed.

I was prepping these to go the powder coat shop, just like the ones I put on the wagon recently.

Hub flanges are worth $$$$ in good condition... ;)

I'm still waiting to get the labor estimate back from the shop. I don't have the time to do this one myself...

Andrewjtx, I'll probably be looking you up soon. We'll see what shipping is, although I find that USPS is about 1/4 cost of FedEx or UPS.

Even though you are not doing they job yourself you might want to look up the procedure on replacing the rear wheel bearing (because the Hubs have been removed from the ones you are speaking of) so that you will be able to find out if the Mechanic knows how to do that.

Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

I think I found ones with the hubs intact, waiting to hear from the seller.

I love this board.

Sweet. This is a great group of folks.

My thoughts exactly. I'm also doing my diff mount, rear axle boots, and r&r all the front suspension, four wheel alignment, for less than $400 labor.

I might do the bodywork to save the car over the long haul after all.

not a bad price for all of that!

My '85, soon to be for sale, has a fully refurbed suspension and drivetrain (from trans output back).

I used to loathe rough roads, now I look for potholes!

So, the rear passenger trailing arm was replaced, with much knashing of teeth. Now, especially at speeds over 45 mph, if I hit a bump, or a mild to hard turn, then the read of the car gets squirrelly, almost like the rear passenger wheel is loose, but it's not. I hacked up the rear and there is no play in the wheel.

Thoughts while I wait to take the car in?

Is everything torqued/bolted down appropriately? I would double check all the bolts, theres only what a dozen?

It the bearing on the other side, all blown out, I'm amazed it didn't fall off.

Anybody know off hand the parts I need to order for my shop to do the driver side rear bearing?

It'll be cheaper to just change the whole trailing arm on that side too.

I'm going to hear back from the shop on the issue soon. They're pretty cheap, and pretty good. Being in the midwest, and dropping off beer for work well done helps a lot with getting good rates.

Just a quick update, had to replace the other trailing arm, the bearing was so bad that it was past grinding or howling. The strange part is that I never heard it make any noise.