Repair Trailing Arm? - Page 4 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Stretch · #46 09-02-2013, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

...
#19. Check the wheel bearing for roughness and end play on the replacement trailing arms, if needed replace the bearings BEFORE installing on the car...
...

Do you have any good tips to stop the hub from turning when installing the new bearings?

I know MB have a special tool that looks like a tennis racket that bolts onto the hub instead of a wheel - have you got one of those?

I ended up doing this =>

(From this thread W123 rear wheel bearing removal help needed)

whunter · #47 09-02-2013, 06:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

My My - a lot of negativity in the above. I am sure this might be needed in some cases, but my car is not in that kind of condition. I don't think I would have much of problem removing bolts. Most of them have benefited from the 300Ds self oiling feature

"Warning: Never attempt the following EXTREME corrosion level of work unless you have:
* A garage. No Problem there
* A second vehicle. No Problem there
* Prepared for parts shipping delays. No Problem there
* Prepared for special tools shipping delays. need for special tools make eliminate it as a DIY job
* Prepared for dirty, physically HARD work. I don't like that. Dirt won't kill me, but HARD work might!
* Prepared to have the vehicle out of service for an unknown weeks or months. It's been mostly off road since last Fall

)

Looks like a job I could do, but not sure I want to. So it comes down to leave it as-is except for some rustproofing and paint, or have shop put on a new trailing arm, bushings, mounts, boots for $xxx.xx

Thanks to all, I now have a better understanding of the job.

That diy was exclusive to the most EXTREME case of corrosion = yours should be simple by comparison.
My best guess if you do one trailing arm = roughly two - five hours.

.

Graham · #48 09-05-2013, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

if I were you, I'd plan a trip to the states and pick up a set from ANY junkyard. those are totally shot, and no amount of welding is sufficient to repair them...

We will be travelling down to SC during winter. Usual route is down I-81, then across to I-95 at some point. Space in car is a bit of a problem, but may be a good excuse to buy a roof carrier for GLK250 diesel we will have by then )

Would junkyards have the arms already removed? I know of Potomac, but any others I could look at. Of course, i wouldn't want arms that have lived in a rust belt, so this might not be best place to look.

Graham · #49 09-05-2013, 09:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

PeachPartsWiki: Replacing the Rear Shocks & Springs

I am not clear on why I would need a spring compressor. In the above link, whunter R&Rs shocks and springs without spring compressor. Is there something I am missing? Or is it just safer with compressor?

It will likely be some time before I get a replacement control arm. I am going to clean up my existing ones, spray Fluid Film inside, then patch and paint exterior. Just as an interim measure so I can move car around. Thought if I could remove springs & shocks I could do a better job and see if I am happy with doing the control arm replacement. But on the other hand....

I do at least want to try loosening subframe mount bolts, just to see if they will come out.

whunter · #50 09-05-2013, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

I am not clear on why I would need a spring compressor. In the above link, whunter R&Rs shocks and springs without spring compressor. Is there something I am missing? Or is it just safer with compressor?

It will likely be some time before I get a replacement control arm. I am going to clean up my existing ones, spray Fluid Film inside, then patch and paint exterior. Just as an interim measure so I can move car around. Thought if I could remove springs & shocks I could do a better job and see if I am happy with doing the control arm replacement. But on the other hand....

I do at least want to try loosening subframe mount bolts, just to see if they will come out.

No spring compressor needed.

.

rs899 · #51 09-05-2013, 11:06 AM

Quote:

Would junkyards have the arms already removed? I know of Potomac, but any others I could look at. Of course, i wouldn't want arms that have lived in a rust belt, so this might not be best place to look.

Some will, some won't. The upullit types will be cheaper and may provide a learning experience to see if you think you can put it back together.

The upullits around here, when they have W123s have the rear end supported under the spare tire so could be fairly easy to drop. Not sure how far south you would need to go to get usable ones- perhaps Crazy Rays in Maryland or the place in Va Beach.

Graham · #52 09-07-2013, 12:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

It looks like there is a crack on one side where the Shock is.
If those are Nuts and Bolts that are mounting the Shock you could make and insert from one or 2 Washers; on washer on each side with the Holes for the Bolts and JB Weld it in place and use longer Bolts.

The Metal on the Arms is thin. I have never used a MIG Welder so I don't know if it can be done with that.

In the Olden Days shops did not have a MIG Welder but the did have a Torch. I believe the Pin Holes could be Brazed over.

You could use some Fiber Glass Cloth and JB Weld Epoxy to cover over the Pin Holes.

For now, I have gone Diesel911s route!

Checked out driver side closely and found no sign of anything other than light surface rust where paint had come off.

The advice to replace the trailing arms is no doubt good advice. But no pullaparts around here. I have had several offers of replacement trailing arms. All are as old as mine or older. But ones from rust free areas are no doubt better, but hard to tell from pics.

I power wire brushed the rusted surface, poked at the pin holes and opened them up as far as they would go. There was no 'cracking' and metal 1/4" away from holes seemed solid and full thickness.

In a few other places, there were hard "nodules". Small hard spots growing outwards. It seems to me that those may be how the pin holes start. They are not widespread. Of course, once a hole develops, then water can get inside and cause unseen corrosion.

After cleaning off rust, I filled the pinholes with JBWEld. Larger pinholes, I used small patches of fibreglass mesh to bridge over. Applied a thin layer of JB-weld over repaired area. Once set, I sanded and roughened JbWeld, then painted repaired area and any surface rust with DOM16 (POR equivalent). Did same where needed on driver side. Then painted as much of rest of undercarriage as I could with Penetrol (It is a good rust preventer and unlike most rust sprays, sets up like a paint after penetrating.

I also drilled and tapped two 10-24 holes in trailing arms in area where springs are supported. (No metric tap

). The metal is not that thin - maybe 1/8"? Plenty of thickness to tap into. I sprayed 1/2 a can of Fluid Film (a sort of cavity wax cum rust preventer) through the holes as well as around the spring support cavity. The Fluid Flow should have worked it's way into low rust prone areas, but of course no way of knowing. I closed the tapped holes with short S/S machine screws and sealed over the heads with seam sealer.

This got car back on road! I don't think that trailing arm will break any time soon, but you never know! Just about to head to the car wash (was parked under shade tree

) Next week, the visible rust (jack point) will get weld repaired.

I will try and source a pair of good used trailing arms, but would like to pick them up because freight is expensive. We will be in SC over winter, so will see what we can find. Have a couple of possibilities that are sort of on route.

I appreciate all the help and advice provided.

t walgamuth · #53 09-07-2013, 12:11 PM

Although nothing done would seem to replace any structure lost It does appear to be a good repair to stop further rust. If the holes are small the structural loss would seem minimal as long as there is not rust at the seams that you cannot see.

Graham · #54 09-07-2013, 08:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

Although nothing done would seem to replace any structure lost It does appear to be a good repair to stop further rust. If the holes are small the structural loss would seem minimal as long as there is not rust at the seams that you cannot see.

Yes, that was my thinking. The arms may last for a long time, but I will try and pick up a couple of replacement arms. The subframe mounts should be done too before long and the axle boots are not that great, so a big rear end job may be in order, perhaps next year (car doesn't get used much over winter). For us, this is really just spare car, so no urgency.

Graham · #55 03-21-2014, 11:09 AM

Looks like my trailing arms will have last for another year

Actually, the way I use the car, they should last for quite a while.

We are still in SC beach area, but leads I had on rust free used arms seem to have fizzled out or too far away to be picked up.

We are heading back to Canada April 1. (I-95/81)

whunter · #56 03-22-2014, 02:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

Looks like my trailing arms will have last for another year

Actually, the way I use the car, they should last for quite a while.

We are still in SC beach area, but leads I had on rust free used arms seem to have fizzled out or too far away to be picked up.

We are heading back to Canada April 1. (I-95/81)

Can you come through Detroit?

I have some spare trailing arms.

.

t walgamuth · #57 03-22-2014, 07:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stretch

Here's a picture for you

The trailing arm bolts need a combination of open ended spanners and shallow sockets to be reached...

That is a pretty clean looking subframe and trailing arms unit there.

Graham · #58 03-22-2014, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Can you come through Detroit?

I have some spare trailing arms.

.

You are close enough to our home location that if the arms failed I could drive down and pick them up. That would be a good backup position and i have not forgotten you have them.

But being in the land of rust free trailing arms

, I had hoped to pick a pair up while here just as spares to use if and when mine fail.

barry12345 · #59 03-22-2014, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by charmalu

Isn`t 73 the new 55?

Iam 68 pushing 69

and still at it.

Dropping the whole rear suspension isn`t really difficult. If you have 3 floor jacks, a flat concrete work area you are golden. one jack under the Diff, and one under each trailing arm. once the DL, Shocks, calipers, brake cable is loosened, and the diff mount. It will just lower down and slide out with the floor jacks.

Once out, remove the 13mm bolt in the Hub and the 2 24mm (I believe) bolts that connect the arm to the Sub Frame and pull it off. slide the new one on and button it up.

Note:
I should say here that the vehicle should be securely and safely stable with jack stands before removing anything.

I used some 3/4" round stock, put it into the jack holes till it`s seated all the way in. then cut it off 4" or so past the Jack Hole, had it bent about 15 deg so it is level with the ground. then set these on your jack Stands to hold the vehicle.

Now if your Jack Holes are rusted out, HMMMM.... not sure what to do then.

STRETCH, you have that excellent thread on removing the assy. think I posted how I did mine step by step in a post.

GRAHAM, isn`t there some young Bucks on the forum that would pitch in from your area?

Charlie

I glad to hear you are still at it Charlie.

For the poster a backyard type mechanic might serve your needs. Usually one can be located. Our rust is somewhat worse on the east coast of Canada than your location.

Basically you cannot touch any suspension work here without serious heat. Or you may learn to swear like a sailor.

Graham · #60 03-22-2014, 11:37 AM

Barry,
The shop that did the weld repairs on my car (thread in bodywork forun) also does mechanical work. $50/hr vs $85/hr at local general repair shop. But he doesn.t have hoist, so maybe shop might be more efficient.

Getting back to repairing trailing arm. Looking at Stretch's picture, what do think about fabbing up a "cereal bowl" out of steel that will sit inside the spring cavity. Maybe rivet or tack weld in few places. Might be a way of doing a quick repair without removing the arms?

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