Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 08-29-2013, 10:28 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,910
Repair Trailing Arm?

I was about to paint trailing arms on my 85 300D, but after scraping off dirt etc, noticed some pinholes. Looks like I have some rust. Tapping indicates arm is generally solid except in those areas.

Ideas that come to mind:
-POR/JBWeld plus spray interior with Fluid Film or similar.
- Weld repair
- Replace with good used.

I am about $2600 and 9 months into an overall rust repair. But, we don't NEED this car, so there has to be a limit.

What do you think about the repair options?

Attached Thumbnails
Repair Trailing Arm?-img_1952.jpg  
__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 08-29-2013, 10:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,740
I would replace it with a good used one....mainly because the shock mounting studs look bad, I don't know if that nut would ever come off when it was time to change the shock....plus I wonder what it looks like under the spring shim....I would hate to go over a speed bump and have it crack or the spring pop out....I suppose the only to true way to fix it and see how bad it is, is to remove it off the car....
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 08-29-2013, 10:57 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 34,915
It looks like there is a crack on one side where the Shock is.
If those are Nuts and Bolts that are mounting the Shock you could make and insert from one or 2 Washers; on washer on each side with the Holes for the Bolts and JB Weld it in place and use longer Bolts.

The Metal on the Arms is thin. I have never used a MIG Welder so I don't know if it can be done with that.

In the Olden Days shops did not have a MIG Welder but the did have a Torch. I believe the Pin Holes could be Brazed over.

You could use some Fiber Glass Cloth and JB Weld Epoxy to cover over the Pin Holes.
__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 08-29-2013, 11:46 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,585
That trailing arm is 2 pieces of sheet metal that is stamped out and welded together along the flange area. If you see pin holes now, that is only the tip of the ice burg.

I would replace the Trailing Arm with a good used one. clean it up, and POR it with several coats of paint.

There has been several threads where these things have cracked and also the shock fall out where it is bolted in. This is a safety issue for sure.

Rust battle #434 Rear Control Arm

IT FELL OFF! :)

rear trailing arm broke

rear trailing arm broke


Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum - View Single Post - rear trailing arms 84 300d

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Last edited by charmalu; 08-30-2013 at 12:31 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 08-30-2013, 03:01 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
I think good used / new (with serious discount!) is the best option.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 08-30-2013, 09:49 AM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,910
I realize that new or good used is the best option. But at 73, I am afraid the replacement job is beyond me. If I found good used trailing arms, what would shop time be? If subframe was removed, new mounts plus the trailing arm bushings would be needed. The rubber boots on the side shafts also look like they should be replaced soon.

My concern is that all this done by a shop might cost me more than a new car

Alternative is to patch as best as I can. Welding on a reinforcing plate, might be a stopgap measure, but to do that properly, presumably shock should come out and perhaps spring too?

Assuming I keep car and drive it as is, it will only be used as an around town car to get me to places like golf course or marina and shops. It would save me using my 72 350SL. For that, I will have to review just how bad the rust is. Maybe drill a few tiny holes. I wish I had a wall thickness meter like we had when I was working!
__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 08-30-2013, 10:15 AM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
I realize that new or good used is the best option. But at 73, I am afraid the replacement job is beyond me. If I found good used trailing arms, what would shop time be? If subframe was removed, new mounts plus the trailing arm bushings would be needed. The rubber boots on the side shafts also look like they should be replaced soon.

My concern is that all this done by a shop might cost me more than a new car

Alternative is to patch as best as I can. Welding on a reinforcing plate, might be a stopgap measure, but to do that properly, presumably shock should come out and perhaps spring too?

Assuming I keep car and drive it as is, it will only be used as an around town car to get me to places like golf course or marina and shops. It would save me using my 72 350SL. For that, I will have to review just how bad the rust is. Maybe drill a few tiny holes. I wish I had a wall thickness meter like we had when I was working!
Oh come on - don't pull the I'm 73 card on us! You're more active than most of us here.

I know the replacement seems like a big job - and it is - but with help you could easily do it in a weekend. I can post a link showing how to do the job if you want. The best trick is to undo all the bolts and bits and then "just" lift the back end of the car and roll the whole subframe out from underneath with the wheels still on it. If you can think of a way of doing that with relative ease then working on the subframe and trailing arms is improved tenfold...
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 08-30-2013, 12:08 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,585
Isn`t 73 the new 55? Iam 68 pushing 69 and still at it.

Dropping the whole rear suspension isn`t really difficult. If you have 3 floor jacks, a flat concrete work area you are golden. one jack under the Diff, and one under each trailing arm. once the DL, Shocks, calipers, brake cable is loosened, and the diff mount. It will just lower down and slide out with the floor jacks.

Once out, remove the 13mm bolt in the Hub and the 2 24mm (I believe) bolts that connect the arm to the Sub Frame and pull it off. slide the new one on and button it up.

Note:
I should say here that the vehicle should be securely and safely stable with jack stands before removing anything.

I used some 3/4" round stock, put it into the jack holes till it`s seated all the way in. then cut it off 4" or so past the Jack Hole, had it bent about 15 deg so it is level with the ground. then set these on your jack Stands to hold the vehicle.

Now if your Jack Holes are rusted out, HMMMM.... not sure what to do then.

STRETCH, you have that excellent thread on removing the assy. think I posted how I did mine step by step in a post.


GRAHAM, isn`t there some young Bucks on the forum that would pitch in from your area?


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 08-30-2013, 01:47 PM
Stretch's Avatar
...like a shield of steel
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
Posts: 14,461
Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
...
STRETCH, you have that excellent thread on removing the assy. think I posted how I did mine step by step in a post.


GRAHAM, isn`t there some young Bucks on the forum that would pitch in from your area?


Charlie
Several people have contributed to the thread (your good self included). Here it is =>

Rear subframe removal and bushing replacement

Access to a two post lift would make this job a giggle - the greatest difficulty would then be reduced to rusted nuts.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 08-30-2013, 04:28 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,910
Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Isn`t 73 the new 55? Iam 68 pushing 69 and still at it.

GRAHAM, isn`t there some young Bucks on the forum that would pitch in from your area?

Charlie
Thanks for the encouragement. I understand what is involved, but it looks like too much of a job for me.

Re the young-bucks - none I know of here in Great White North, but if there are, maybe they would like to buy the car

What I would like to do, before deciding on what to do, is lower the trailing arms so that I can inspect the top side where the springs are seated. Any good advice on how I can do that safely would be welcome! (Just did front on our smartcar, but it is like a golf cart!)
__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-30-2013, 04:49 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 36,270
I believe you should be able to get one arm replaced for 2 to 300, both for 3 to 400, paying an indy to do it. Used arems surely can be found from the south for $100 plus ship or less.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 08-30-2013, 09:35 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,359
Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
I was about to paint trailing arms on my 85 300D, but after scraping off dirt etc, noticed some pinholes. Looks like I have some rust. Tapping indicates arm is generally solid except in those areas.

Ideas that come to mind:
-POR/JBWeld plus spray interior with Fluid Film or similar.
- Weld repair
- Replace with good used.

I am about $2600 and 9 months into an overall rust repair. But, we don't NEED this car, so there has to be a limit.

What do you think about the repair options?
Replace it with a good used unit.

Here is what will happen if it is patched up.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair-restoration/220623-1985-300sd-rr-trailing-arm-rust-pictures.html

.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 08-30-2013, 09:44 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,910
I have a question about the lower shock mounts. In the picture I posted, it looks like there are bolts with nuts on bottom. Maybe they are welded studs?

In sketch below from manual, it looks like there are studs screwing upwards into what looks like square nuts likely welded to trailing arm?

If I want to remove shocks, if those are bolts, it might be a trick to hold the heads.





PS: Bill H. - I agree that replacement trailing arm is the right thing. But up here we have no used MB parts sources. Just looking at all possibilities. The trailing arm on my car is nowhere near as bad as the one you linked. But it could be with no attention. At present I am in inspection mode and would like to get shocks and springs out of way and have a better look at top side.
__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 08-30-2013, 10:19 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,359
Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
PS: Bill H. - I agree that replacement trailing arm is the right thing. But up here we have no used MB parts sources. Just looking at all possibilities. The trailing arm on my car is nowhere near as bad as the one you linked. But it could be with no attention. At present I am in inspection mode and would like to get shocks and springs out of way and have a better look at top side.
If you can get to Detroit?
I have trailing arms for sale.

.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 08-30-2013, 10:33 PM
Graham's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,910
Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
If you can get to Detroit?
I have trailing arms for sale.

.
We are at far east end of Lake Ontario, so Detroit is not too handy. I have had some large items shipped to border pick up point in NY state, but maybe shipping these would be difficult?

Out of interest, what is the price range for used trailing arms?

__________________
Graham
85 300D,72 350SL, 98 E320, Outback 2.5
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:34 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page