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  #1  
Old 01-14-2012, 05:05 PM
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Location: Westminster, SC
Posts: 94
1985 300TD tight U-joint; replacement?

I've been noticing a driveline vibration above 45-ish mph in my 1985 300TD when there is no load on the driveline. That is, not accelerating or decelerating. I decided to replace both flex discs, the center carrier, and center bearing, figuring that's all good stuff to replace anyhow.

Today I pulled the driveshaft ... flex discs were pretty stiff and cracking, but not failing yet ... center bearing and carrier seems fine though carrier rubber is looking cracky. Hmmm... nothing obvious that would cause my vibration. Splines are in fine shape with no play.

I was figuring on just putting it back together with new parts to see what happened. Then, I noticed that the center u-joint is a little tight: no play but it feel like it could use some grease on both axes.

I suppose the right thing to do is get it to a driveshaft shop and have a new joint installed.

Any experience with having this done? Anyone have a source for a good driveshaft? Put it back together and worry about it later?

Having a great time with this car; really appreciate this forum.

-Dan

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1976 w115 300D 4-speed conversion!!
1985 w123 300TD 4-speed conversion!!

Non-Mercedes old stuff:
1941 Buick Special (Straight 8!)
1946 Luscombe 8a
1947 Willys CJ2a
1950 Chevrolet 4400 dump truck
1954 Chevrolet 3600 3/4 ton
1954 Cessna 195B
1955 John Deere model 40
1991 Ford Taurus SHO
2013 Jetta SportWagen TDI 6-speed (I sold out...
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2012, 06:56 PM
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Location: Northern Virginia
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tires

Dude, its the tires.
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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
2016 Ford Fusion 24,900
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  #3  
Old 01-14-2012, 07:26 PM
piccolovic's Avatar
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Location: FL
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I would think you'd want tight U-joint. Did you replace that carrier bearing with the big rubber bushing? And I heard there's no one really set up in US to replace the U-joints. Easier to get another driveshaft from the junkyard.

Contact VSTECH about the ujoints. He'll tell you how to check.
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1983 300D, the "Avocado"
1976 240D, 4-spd the "Pumpkin", SOLD to Pierre
1984 190D, 2.2L, 5-spd, my intro to MBZ diesels, crashed into in 2002
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  #4  
Old 01-14-2012, 10:12 PM
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Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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The U-Joints can be replaced. they are stacked in, so the stake has to be machined out.

I just had the 240 done about 6 weeks ago. the shop sent it to a machine shop, then they send it back, and he installs a Ford Mustang U-Joint with clips. Cost was $300, included the U-Joint, center support bearing and the 2 bushing in the end of the drive line where it fits over the centering pin on the Trans and Diff.

Good luck finding a good 28 plus year old driveline in the JY that is good. most all the W123 joints will have that notchy feel when bending the joint. the joint really doesn`t flex, with everything solidly mounted.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #5  
Old 01-14-2012, 11:04 PM
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Location: Westminster, SC
Posts: 94
Yep, it feels notchy when you move it. Tires are new. Thinking I may install new center bearing, carrier, and flex discs, reinstall and see what happens. On the other hand, hate to have it out and not replace the joint. Like you say, Charmalu, bet they're all like this.

Will report back ...

-Dan
__________________
1976 w115 300D 4-speed conversion!!
1985 w123 300TD 4-speed conversion!!

Non-Mercedes old stuff:
1941 Buick Special (Straight 8!)
1946 Luscombe 8a
1947 Willys CJ2a
1950 Chevrolet 4400 dump truck
1954 Chevrolet 3600 3/4 ton
1954 Cessna 195B
1955 John Deere model 40
1991 Ford Taurus SHO
2013 Jetta SportWagen TDI 6-speed (I sold out...

Last edited by 54dan; 01-14-2012 at 11:05 PM. Reason: spelling
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  #6  
Old 01-14-2012, 11:26 PM
Diesel911's Avatar
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Location: Long Beach,CA
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This is what I did with mine.

My U-joint Repair thread 2011
Drive Shaft U-Joint Is Staked/Crimped In Place, Now What To Do? - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

My Benz World post with all of the U-joint sources.
Another U-Joint / Driveshaft Thread - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
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  #7  
Old 01-14-2012, 11:46 PM
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Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
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When I pulled the shaft off, I check the flange on the Differential, nice and firm feel. different story at the transmission, the flange was loose and wobley. I removed the nut and pulled the flange. The nut had loosened up and/or the splines on the flange started to wear, and got worse and worse.

The splines have flat tapered sides and a flat top, these were worn to a point. the transmission splines looked good, being a hardened material.
so I swapped one from my spare transmission and used the nut from that trans. has to be staked after it is torqued down, and the old stake part was on the other side.

So between the loose U-Joint and the loose Flange, is real smooth now.

Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #8  
Old 01-15-2012, 09:39 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Westminster, SC
Posts: 94
So, I decided that I wasn't ready for this car to be down for an extended period while I tried to find a good driveshaft shop. I put it back together with new flex discs, a new center bearing and carrier, and a new rear trans mount.

I did check the trans flange and there was a tiny bit of play, but not much. In hindsight, I kind of wish I'd have maybe checked that closer for a loose nut...

The vibration is now all but gone. I thought I maybe felt it a little once at about 45 coasting.

I figure I'll hunt down a used shaft and see what I can do about getting a new joint installed on that instead of having the car down for so long ...

Thanks guys very much for the replies on this thread; I learned a lot!

-Dan
__________________
1976 w115 300D 4-speed conversion!!
1985 w123 300TD 4-speed conversion!!

Non-Mercedes old stuff:
1941 Buick Special (Straight 8!)
1946 Luscombe 8a
1947 Willys CJ2a
1950 Chevrolet 4400 dump truck
1954 Chevrolet 3600 3/4 ton
1954 Cessna 195B
1955 John Deere model 40
1991 Ford Taurus SHO
2013 Jetta SportWagen TDI 6-speed (I sold out...
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  #9  
Old 01-15-2012, 09:45 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
Posts: 5,177
I ended up replacing the entire drive shaft, with a re-man from a a good drive line shop.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K
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  #10  
Old 09-03-2013, 08:44 PM
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Lutz (Just north of Tampa) FL, USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
I just had the 240 done about 6 weeks ago. the shop sent it to a machine shop, then they send it back, and he installs a Ford Mustang U-Joint with clips.
You wouldn't happen to know what Mustang U-Joint they put in there?

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'82 300D - Light Ivory, 2nd Owner (Back in the wind April 2013!)

'95 E300D - White, grey interior. (Suffering from stuck/broken glow plugs)

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"Thou shalt not see thy brother's ass or his ox fall down by the way, and hide thyself from them: thou shalt surely help him to lift them up again."
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