S210 E300 TDT 1998 - air in diesel (will not start) - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Preben · #16 09-07-2013, 04:19 PM

I do not live in the US, and I have never needed something to vac brake hoses or anything else. I have just put the car into repair shop if needed. :-)

The case is that in my case there are no air in the fuel lines before the SOV. But after the SOV there is a lot of air. I do not need to suck hard to get air into the lines.

Preben · #17 09-12-2013, 01:41 PM

I have now tried to remove the SOV, but the torx screw under the fuel line is rounded. I have now tried with different tools, but haven't had any luck to remove the screw.

So what if I take a drill and drill the screw's head away? Then I can remove the SOV and then unscrew the rest of the screw with a wrench? Then just use a new screw to mount it back again?

KarTek · #18 09-12-2013, 02:05 PM

Before drilling I would suggest an Unbrako wrench or a screw extractor driven into the rounded screw head.

I think the repair shop who re-installed the damaged screw did you a dis-service...

Preben · #19 09-12-2013, 02:08 PM

Quote:

I think the repair shop who re-installed the damaged screw did you a dis-service...

If I only had known, they wouldn't touch my car the first time...

Have tried with umbraco (do not bite) and a standard screw extractor (do not bite).

I have heard about other screw extractors, and may try with that first.

IF you know about good ones, would you please link to images of good ones?

KarTek · #20 09-12-2013, 02:52 PM

Here is one type:

12 Piece Screw Extractor Set

And here is another:

73214-Century Drill & Tool 73214 Square Flute Screw Extractor Set (6 Piece)

Preben · #21 09-12-2013, 04:39 PM

Thanks.

I bought a set in the mean time, and have tried it. Found it didn't work properly, so I took a 8 mm steel drill and drilled away the screw's head.

What I found then shocked me: the repair shop had charged me 4 hours of work to change the o-ring. But the o-ring sitting there was old, "square" and hard, so they have never opened up the SOV and have never changed it.

Tomorrow they will receive an email, and I want all my money back. I have kept the o-ring, so the boss of the company can see for himself.

It is hard and "square" after been sitting there for years. The o-ring I gave them was new, original quality and round...

Just need a new o-ring, and I guess the engine will work well again.

vstech · #22 09-12-2013, 06:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

I have never tried this, but in theory it should work. Use your Mityvac with the brake bleeding components connected to the return hose attached to the hard line going back to the tank. Pump it enough to suck the fuel through the supply and filters, and out the return and into the collection container. That should prime the system enough to start the car. Again, in theory it should work. I am sure something like this is used in the factory when the cars were built. I can't imagine them cranking the starter for minutes at a time to prime the system.

Here's what I do .
Set shop vac to "blow" get a hose pinch tool on the return line. Put blow hose on the fuel filler for the tank and pressurize the tank and supply hose... Then open the filter return banjo nut. Done

KarTek · #23 09-12-2013, 06:27 PM

I'd be willing to bet that the shop couldn't get the SOV off then threw the O ring away you gave them and called it "done".

Bastards...

Preben · #24 09-13-2013, 02:44 AM

The owner of the repair shop is a reputable man (good reputation), but I guess the one lying here is the repair man. So I have a case with them.

Regarding "filter return banjo nut": What nut is that? Where is it on a E300 TDT s210 ?