W123 subframe bushing
 

Just put this bushing in. Jacked from the centering plate to seat it- had full weight if car on it- then torqued to 89 ft/lb. See attached picture. Figured that wouldn't cut it so its in the freezer right now. I used dish soap but maybe tomorrow some grease? Anybody have any tips or similar experience?

There should be info in the below links:
DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

I think you are doing things opposite. Cold Rubber might shrink but it gets stiffer. Hot Rubber is more flexible.
Walmart and similar places sell Generic STP (the slippery Oil Additive) where I used to work we uses that on O-rings during tight installation so they would not get cut as you were inserting the Part.

Don`t use grease or freeze them. I rebuilt the rear end of my 300D several years ago. new Trail Arm Bushings, Sub frame and Diff mount.

I followed along in a thread Whiskeydan did that got me inspired to do mine. The hardest part of the job is reading about doing it and then mulling it around in your head, and the job seems way above your capabilities.

Once it is behind you, you ask your self why it was so difficult?

So for the Subframe bushing, I made a tool out of some flat stock and a 12" 5/8" All Thread. something like this MB tool.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...g-tools-88.jpg Metal clad bushing tools - 88.JPG (1 of 1)

Looking at the M0079, I made it like the 'C' shaped left end. drilled a 5/8" hole for the all thread and welded the 3 pieces like the "C". Then for the other end, it was just a piece of the flat stock with a 5/8" hole. this went across the flat part of the Subframe. use a large Nut, and tighten the bushing into the hole.

The ends of the "C" part sit on the flat metal sides of the Bushing.

The pieces of the flat stock in 3" wide X 1/4" thick.

When I was trying to get my Sub Frame bushings in, I used KY Jelly. I could get the bushing in except for the last 1/4in. no matter how much I cranked down on the installer.

I managed to get it back out, cleaned up the mess, and then used Syl-Glide. they went right in. then used it for the trailing arm bushing too.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/...500_AA300_.jpg

KY is good for some things, :rolleyes: but this isn`t one of them. with the Sil-Glyde they went right in.

Hope I made this simple enough.


Charlie

Thanks for the replies. Ill see what I can rig up to help press them in. I was just reading a few more posts on these bushings. Seems the mehle ones are troublesome. Which is the brand I have. What brand did you use charmalu?

Iam sure the one`s I used are meyle. I got them from Phil, they are what Fastlane was selling at the time.

Charlie

I used the metal outer part of the bushing (after cutting the inner part out) as the plane I was going to put force on. I got about a 10" long 1/2" diameter bolt (fully threaded) and a few thick fender washers as well as a nut. Then I just put the old bushing casing on top of the new bushing to push on the outside of the new bushing, guided the bolt through the subframe and then wrenched the thing down. It went in just fine.

Applying all that torque to the center of the bushing when it's not seated can prematurely shear the center out of the casing, or at least stretch it enough to damage it.

Phil Forrest

Well, one bushing is pressed in 98% of the way. Used some sil-glide, a few pieces of flat metal and a threaded rod. Also cut the center out of the old mount and used that to press on the new one.

The directions i was originally follwing didnt even come close to conveying the amount of effort involved in reinstalling this bushing.