On a W126 1983 300SD:

Are the heating element lines in the glass or screened on the surface of the glass. It looks a whole heck of a lot like they are laminated between two pieces of glass.

I would like to know before I take a razor blade to the crappy tint job someone put on my back window.

Thanks guys!

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

The W126 has the defroster wires laminated in the glass. so no worry about destroying anything. how ever there are the two wires, one on each side that supply`s the power and ground. be care full of them.

The W123 280E/300CD also have the wires in the glass.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

My 300D and 220D have wires on the interior side of the glass. The 300D has a whopping two wires with continuity. The 220D might as well be a bare window as I think someone got a little overzealous with cleaning it and tore 80% of the wires off. I'd love to have it working but at the same time, it's going to be pretty expensive, so I may rig up a duct system driven by 12v computer case fans to blow warm air onto the inside of the window. It would probably defog quicker too.

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

I absolutely LOVE Mercedes-Benz cars! This is just one little reason why. I have been scared to get that nasty tint off the glass until I looked closer at the heater lines and they looked laminated inside the glass.

I'm completely aware of the two power leads under the C-pillars. I will be careful of them. I know how to take the window out and I was considering swapping it for the one in my parts car 300SE but if I can save the time and cost with a little bending over the back seat, I will. Window seals are not cheap or easy to install. It does not rule out the question of rust under the seal but maybe I can deal with investigating that later.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Even if the lines aren't laminated in between the glass, they are hard to destroy....on my 81 I had, the rear defog didn't work but maybe one line, they were very corroded and fogging up the rear window...I said to the heck with it....I took fine steel wool and window cleaner, scrubbed the back window till I could see out of it again....and guess what, the lines never did come off....

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