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#1
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Trailer hitch receiver for 126 body
This is a New Style receiver for the w126 body and different from all others available.
The torque tube is fitted behind the bumper and allows full travel of the bumper on impact. Nothing is fastened to the bumper. Installs at the three bolts on each side at the bumper install points and two 3/8" bolts into the spare tire well. Installation on an SD is very easy. I have a dozen of these receivers installed on member’s cars now for towing and bike racks. Price $195,00 plus freight. Weight is 30#, ships by Fed X from Blaine ,Washington. Pic1 There is easy access to the bolts with flat wrench and socket for the other two. Pic2 Before puling he bumper back remove the mug guards on each side. Pic3 Rest the bumper on a couple of dairy box's or kitchen chairs then thread the receiver over the bumper bolts and shove the bumper back in place. After reinstalling the bumper drill the two 3/8”bolt holes into the spare tire well and install the two bolts, supplied. Yes, remove the spare before drilling. Pic4 Ready to ship, no additional packaging required with FedX Pic5.The receiver is set back under the bumper, a neat look, and behind the bumper impact collapse point The bumper will re install tight to the body with no space, the original look.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#2
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Very nice.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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Very nice! I've been working on a design for a W123 body and am waiting for some measurements from someone who has a non-bumper mount hitch on their W123 TD. (Euro or Curtis). Please reply to the below thread.
W123 300TD trailer hitch question I like that your square tube is hidden by the bumper. How is the receiver attached to the square tube so the bumper doesn't strike that attachment during a rear bumper impact event? What size is your receiver? Thanks!
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C Last edited by Ol' Yeller; 09-07-2013 at 10:42 AM. |
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Quote:
Been there, done that 3 years ago.... W126 Trailer hitch You should be hearing from my patent lawyer shortly... Not. Good job. But the receiver looks small. Probably couldn't do this with it: Towing an SEC with and SDL
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#5
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123 @ TD receiver
I am working on a design for a 1 1/4 receiver for the 123 and TD.
If there is a want for these receivers I would make up a few. Design would be similar to my SD receiver with the torque tube inside the bumper leaving the bumper free to collapse. Ang a neat looking receiver.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#6
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All of my stuff uses a 2" receiver. What size is this?
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#7
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Hi Junkman.
The receivers I build for the 126 body are ClassII 1 1/4". I never went into the larger capacity receivers because I don't think the body has sufficient material strength for heavy towing. Also there is the problem of trani damage from overheating and possibly the engine as well. These are little cars in a big body and just don't have big towing stuff. The trailer hitch industry has it all figured out to save their ass from liability. Here are the specs for Class II receivers. Class II Trailer Hitch Receivers: Designed for light-duty towing Are rated up to 3,500 lbs GTW and 350 lbs TW 1-1/4" x 1-1/4" receiver hitch opening Will work with Class I and Class II accessories, such as bike racks, cargo carriers, and tube covers Requires a Manufacturer-recommended, hitch specific drawbar or ball mount to tow a trailer A 1/2" pin must be used to secure the ball mount in place. Drawbars may be included with hitch or sold separately Available in square and round tube designs. Will work with hitch balls with 3/4" diameter shank
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#8
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Hi The,
I agree with you about overloading the transmission and the rear sheet metal, especially with a design that doesn't take advantage of the stiffness of the frame rails. Tongue load is one thing, but the inertia of thousands of pounds is another. As Newton said: F=MA The advantage of the 2" receiver is the shape. With a 2" receiver, you can get a hitch that will have the proper height for an application. With a 1 1/4" receiver, you're stuck with a fixed height rectangular tube with a ball bolted to it. Cheers!
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C |
#9
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[QUOTE=Ol' Yeller;3203603]Hi The,
The advantage of the 2" receiver is the shape. With a 2" receiver, you can get a hitch that will have the proper height for an application. With a 1 1/4" receiver, you're stuck with a fixed height rectangular tube with a ball bolted to it. Back to you Ol' Yeller The ClassII receiver has the same selection of draw bars as a 2". The bar can be inserted with the ball tongue up or down and that will provide a 3" variation to height also a bar with a straight tongue will vary the height 1.5" You mentioned the bars that some manufactures fasten to two the frame box sections to control torque. The design of their receiver, with the torque tube bellow the mounting plate creates a "hinge" point where the torque tube welds to the plate. But then again are these manufactures trying to build a Class III or four receiver, 2". My New Style design eliminates this "hinge" point. Also the need for 1/4" material in the mounting plate. In my design I run a single bar forward to the spare wheel well for additional stability. Yes fastening a receiver to tin can be a problem. John
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#10
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I mainly want a hitch on the SDs for hauling bikes and was hoping to use the same equipment that I currently have. I have different tongues and hitch balls all on 2". Besides, there is enough stuff around that only sees intermittent use and I prefer not adding more that only duplicates existing equipment. Friends racks are mostly 2" also.
The 00 Diesel Ram does the heavy hauling but I'd only need 1 small piece (the adaptor) to go down to 1 1/4" if I ever have a trailer or bike rack that size. How much trouble is it to make them for a 2" receiver?
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#11
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No trouble at all.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/109842d1362348223-w126-trailer-hitch-trailer-hitch-pad-w126.pdf http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/109843d1362348241-w126-trailer-hitch-trailer-hitch-w126.pdf
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Greg 2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic 2007 ML 320 CDI 2007 Leisure Travel Serenity 2006 Sprinter 432k 2005 E320 CDI 1998 SLK230 (teal) 1998 SLK230 (silver) 1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO Previous: 1983 240D, on WVO 1982 300D, on WVO 1983 300CD, on WVO 1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer) 1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix 1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO 1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO |
#12
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Quote:
I am retired now but was in the trailer hitch fabricating business for seventeen years back before a receiver came out of a box. Every receiver had to be engineered then installed under the car. After designing and installing many thousands of receivers I know what is safe and what is not.
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1984 300SD turbo 126 "My true love" God made me an atheist and who am I to question His wisdom |
#13
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Hi John,
Thanks for your thoughts and it's great to know that there are many years of experience behind your judgement and design. For the benefit of us DIYers, could you post some photos of how your receiver tube is hung from the torsion tube? It appears to be flat plate but it's hard to tell from your photos. Is the safety chain/gusset plate part of the same plate or a separate piece? Here's where my design is. My application is a 4x8" LoadRite utlility trailer that might weight 600 lbs. It has a rated load capacity of 2000 lbs which I doubt that I would ever use/need but if I did, it would be quite local (loam/gravel) and driven as low speed. I've found that some of the challenges designing a hitch for the W123D is that the bumper mount surface is not flat as it appears to be on the W123TD wagon, and the tailpipe routing. I don't know if it's flat on a W126 sedan. Instead, the mounts are inclined at 4 deg. This is shown in photo 5. Your two bumper hang plates appear to be bent (braked) 1/4" or 3/16" flat plate. The necessary radius of curvature (3/4"-1"?) of the bend, which can't begin until exiting from beneath the bumper mount, will probably interfere with the tailpipe. There's 3/4" of clearance between the inboard side of my bumper-bolt-hanger (welded joint) and about an inch to the 2x2" square tube wooden mock-up. This is shown in photos 1,2 and 3. The 2x2" square tube will be butt welded to the sides of the 2" receiver tube. The 2x2" square tube will have welded end-plates with slot holes. The end plate slot holes will attach to the bumper-bolt-hanger slot holes with 1/4" galvanized bolts. These 8 bolts have twice the cross-section area and therefore twice the shear strength of the 1/2" receiver hitch pin. The slots allow for some vertical and fore-aft adjustment as needed. The L shaped plate with the slotted holes that is welded to the bumper-bolt-hangers allows for 2" of bumper movement. The narrow portion of the "L" is 1" which serves to stiffen the bumper bolt hanger. Given my concern about the clearance between the tailpipe and the hanger/square tube, I picked up a Harbor Freight IR temperature gun. The tailpipe was about 280 deg. after a drive on hot day and on the interstate. This leads me to believe that powdercoat paint would hold up OK. Anyone else make similar measurements? I'm still waiting for someone to volunteer the dimensions of the 300TD hitch stiffening brace that runs between the bumper-bolt-hanger and the frame rails. From some photos that someone sent me it looks to be about 1/2" x 1" flat stock bent into a "z" shape. Anyone know how long those mount bolts are/how thick the frame rail is? thanks!
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- Neil '83 W123 (Ol' Yeller) '82 HP 34C Last edited by Ol' Yeller; 09-11-2013 at 06:55 AM. |
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