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  #31  
Old 09-20-2013, 04:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graham View Post
First time I did mine, I used 1 can for 2 cars. It wasn't the expensive type and it didn't last.

Second time, I used three cans, but did both cars. I may have posted earlier that 2 cans were needed. However, it is more like 2 or 3 coats. I think I put 2 coats on each side plus one extra on pad itself because it soaks in.

I know of people who have used standard contact cement as well as no more nails. But after my initial experience, I didn't want to experiment any more!

The 3M 8090 spray adhesive high temp spec is 180 degrees F. So is Weldwood contact cement. Has anyone used Weldwood? it's a lot cheaper. So what if I have to use a brush to apply?

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  #32  
Old 09-20-2013, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
The 3M 8090 spray adhesive high temp spec is 180 degrees F. So is Weldwood contact cement. Has anyone used Weldwood? it's a lot cheaper. So what if I have to use a brush to apply?

Id think you'd be able to get a thicker coat brushing it on honestly. Eventually I need to do this to several cars as well.
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  #33  
Old 09-20-2013, 08:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JB3 View Post
Id think you'd be able to get a thicker coat brushing it on honestly. Eventually I need to do this to several cars as well.
Agreed. I know Weldwood contact cement is strong enough to glue sheet rock to walls- I've seen it done. It shouldn't have any problems holding up the featherweight foam pad as long as the glue do not break down with heat. Since they both have the same temp rating, I see no reason the Weldwood will not work as well as the 3M 8090 spray adhesive. 3M makes quality stuff but the price they charge for some of their stuff is criminal.

Weldwood brushable contact cement 16 oz can is 1/4 the price and has similar properties.

www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?partNumber=41161-68-00271&langId=-1&storeId=10151&productId=3033216&catalogId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1
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Last edited by funola; 09-20-2013 at 11:07 PM.
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  #34  
Old 09-21-2013, 12:25 AM
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Steve, you have been agonizing over this hood pad for almost 2 weeks, it should be done by now.

I think I only used one can of the 8090 to spray the Hood and the pad. gave them both 2 coats as I remember.

Don`t cheapen out, this is a Mercedes Benz after all.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

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2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #35  
Old 09-22-2013, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Steve, you have been agonizing over this hood pad for almost 2 weeks, it should be done by now.

I think I only used one can of the 8090 to spray the Hood and the pad. gave them both 2 coats as I remember.

Don`t cheapen out, this is a Mercedes Benz after all.

Charlie
Hey look, it's done! Did it all by myself.

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  #36  
Old 09-22-2013, 03:58 PM
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I tried gasoline on the old glue and it did not do a thing to it. I then tried Carburetter cleaner and it worked good but also took the paint off. Next I tried Brake clean and it's the best! Just spray a little on a small patch of white towel and lightly rub in a circular motion and it dissolves it and comes off. I must have used 20 towel patches!

Here it is all cleaned up




Brushed the Weldwood contact cement on waiting to dry. The foam really soaks up the glue so don't load up on the brush. Just dip the tip of the brush into the glue and quickly spread it on the foam. I must have used a 1/4 of the quart can.


I stood on the plank, lifted the hood pad, centered it and stuck it on top and worked down. Came out nice. I'll let you know if it holds up. I hope it will.
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
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  #37  
Old 09-22-2013, 04:44 PM
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Wow - how did I miss this?

I've recently removed some stubborn hood sheet on my W201 - it seems to be different stuff than what I had on my 300D 'cos when I removed that I think brake cleaner was the solution for that too.

This time brake cleaner wasn't good enough. May be the W201's glue was different - may be it is just stronger when it is younger => 21 years old vs 30 years (at the time of removal)...

...anyway even after using glue removers (gasket remover) the only thing that worked was Eastwood's Undergone

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/341121-achtung-das-schweinhund-baby-benz-thread-10.html
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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  #38  
Old 09-22-2013, 05:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Wow - how did I miss this?

I've recently removed some stubborn hood sheet on my W201 - it seems to be different stuff than what I had on my 300D 'cos when I removed that I think brake cleaner was the solution for that too.

This time brake cleaner wasn't good enough. May be the W201's glue was different - may be it is just stronger when it is younger => 21 years old vs 30 years (at the time of removal)...

...anyway even after using glue removers (gasket remover) the only thing that worked was Eastwood's Undergone

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/341121-achtung-das-schweinhund-baby-benz-thread-10.html
The Brake clean required lot's of elbow grease. I probably spent 3/4 of an hour taking the old glue off little by little. Nice thing with Brake clean is it leaves a degreased surface ready for the contact cement. How about Eastwood's Undergone.
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #39  
Old 09-22-2013, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Here it is all cleaned up



That is SO good looking clean! I wish mine were stripped and dressed out bare that way!


'Preciate the pics!!!!!
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  #40  
Old 09-23-2013, 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe View Post
That is SO good looking clean! I wish mine were stripped and dressed out bare that way!


'Preciate the pics!!!!!
Yeah, there was not a trace of the old glue left when I was done! I probably went overboard in cleaning and that level of clean was not necessary for good adhesion of the new pad.
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  #41  
Old 09-23-2013, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Quahog View Post
3M super 77 is good stuff, idk about high-heat aps though. is available @ parts stores if you wanna read the can
I spoke to 3M. Super 77 is good to 110F, not recommended for hood pad insulation, whereas 3M 8090 is recommended (good to 180 F). They are both sprays adhesives.

The Weldwood contact cement, temperature spec wise, should work just as well as the 3M 8090. Weldwood is applied with a brush, which takes longer to apply than a spray. That is the only negative I see.
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  #42  
Old 09-23-2013, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
The Brake clean required lot's of elbow grease. I probably spent 3/4 of an hour taking the old glue off little by little. Nice thing with Brake clean is it leaves a degreased surface ready for the contact cement. How about Eastwood's Undergone.
I applied it for 10 minutes and wished I'd gone back sooner - it took off some of the paint (that probably was loose and had been effected by the glue anyway <= so I like to think... I didn't leave it on for long enough to damage the undercoat I think).

Whilst it was still a bit messy - much like bathroom mastic remover is (know what I mean?) it kind of crumbled away with a bit of a rub with an old T shirt.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #43  
Old 09-23-2013, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
Hey look, it's done! Did it all by myself.


Good Boy. .......................Looks good.

I bought one for the 240, and ended up putting on my Bro in Laws 82 240D. Then he ordered one for me, but ordered the one with the metal patch for a turbo. He didn`t know there was a difference in them.

This pad should last you as long as you own the car.

I did notice a slight difference in the lower noise level with the new pad.

I used the 3M 8090, it is quick and easy to use. gave the Hood 2 coats and the Pad 2 coats.

I first marked the center of the Hood at the top and the bottom with a Felt tip marker.

Then lined the pad on the Hood (dry) to see how it would line up and marked it in the center to the hood marks, top and bottom.

Then I coated it with the 3M.

Make sure the Hood is in the full German Salute position. (Straight up)

Standing up on the engine in my socks, line up the top mark, slightly stick it, and with a helper line up the bottom mark w/o sticking it yet. then make sure it lines up in the top corner (which side you start on) . then stick the bottom and run your hand down the center and work it across. then the other side. Just takes a few minutes.

It`s not necessary to remove the Hood as I read in some past Threads a few years back.

I have seen some crazy things used on the hoods in the PNP Yards. Card Board, Shag Carpet, Fiberglass Insulation, Bubble Wrap stuff with the Aluminum on one side.....

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #44  
Old 09-23-2013, 02:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
...

Make sure the Hood is in the full German Salute position

...
So that isn't the "I'm please to see you position" then?
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #45  
Old 09-23-2013, 07:35 PM
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Funola, I like that pad. Looks quite professional. I need to do this to 2 of my cars. I may have missed in the thread, but what is the best material to use for this project ?

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