85 300D hood pad - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JamesDean · #61 04-22-2014, 01:00 PM

I didn't read the entire thread but why the decision to go to something else other than 3M 8090?

I've done about a 8-9 cars with the stuff so far and haven't encountered any problems.

funola · #62 04-22-2014, 02:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

I didn't read the entire thread but why the decision to go to something else other than 3M 8090?

I've done about a 8-9 cars with the stuff so far and haven't encountered any problems.

Sorry that was a typo. Checked the can and it is 3M 8090

cooljjay · #63 04-23-2014, 02:08 AM

I wonder if one was to spray the pad with bed liner or runner undercoating, if this would create a thin layer for the adhesive to hold onto and not soak into the foam.

JamesDean · #64 04-23-2014, 09:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Sorry that was a typo. Checked the can and it is 3M 8090

I was asking about why use the weldwood stuff in the first place. I think thats what the product was called.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooljjay

I wonder if one was to spray the pad with bed liner or runner undercoating, if this would create a thin layer for the adhesive to hold onto and not soak into the foam.

I dont know about this. In the past all I've ever done is rough up the surface on the hood, this cleaned off all the old glue too.

Then I'd spray 8090 on the hood, and then onto the hood pad. Let it sit for a few minutes and then put it in place. So far none of the cars have had any hood pad problems. None have came down or anything.

Shortsguy1 · #65 04-23-2014, 09:20 AM

This is a great thread. Thank you.

Is the consensus that the hood pads do nothing for noise? I have been trying to reduce the noise in my w115 220d and have been considering a 1" vinyl nitrile foam pad. I don't know if the car ever had one, but it hasn't had one in 20 years. And the hood paint is fine. So if this is just about protecting paint, my little car doesn't need one. That soundproofing deadener showdown website states that closed cell vinyl nitrile foam does nothing for sound insulation unless it is several inches thick. But that is the material that many other companies sell for hood pad noise insulation.

Also, on the w115, you cannot raise the hood to the vertical position. Should I plan on removing the hood from the car as a consequence? Thanks.

funola · #66 04-23-2014, 11:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

I was asking about why use the weldwood stuff in the first place. I think thats what the product was called.

I dont know about this. In the past all I've ever done is rough up the surface on the hood, this cleaned off all the old glue too.

Then I'd spray 8090 on the hood, and then onto the hood pad. Let it sit for a few minutes and then put it in place. So far none of the cars have had any hood pad problems. None have came down or anything.

The Weldwood brush on contact cement was an experiment that didn't work out for me. The reason the weldwood didn't work (from my observations) was not due to glue failure but from the foam pad acting like a sponge, from the foam pad sitting horizontal and gravity took the adhesive to the bottom immediately upon application. This effect was seen even with the spray adhesive. So My idea to improve the process, and use less adhesive, brush or spray (for you guys to try) is to hang the foam and apply the adhesive as if painting a ceiling.

funola · #67 04-23-2014, 11:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shortsguy1

This is a great thread. Thank you.

Is the consensus that the hood pads do nothing for noise? I have been trying to reduce the noise in my w115 220d and have been considering a 1" vinyl nitrile foam pad. I don't know if the car ever had one, but it hasn't had one in 20 years. And the hood paint is fine. So if this is just about protecting paint, my little car doesn't need one. That soundproofing deadener showdown website states that closed cell vinyl nitrile foam does nothing for sound insulation unless it is several inches thick. But that is the material that many other companies sell for hood pad noise insulation.

Also, on the w115, you cannot raise the hood to the vertical position. Should I plan on removing the hood from the car as a consequence? Thanks.

I do not notice much difference in noise with or without the hood pad. I mean there is a big gap between the hood and fenders where noise can come through. Heat blistering paint I have seen personally on my 83 300D with a turbo and no hood pad for 5 years, only in the area above the turbo. The blistering paint was a slow process.

There is no need to remove the hood IMO. Just protect the windshield and fenders from the adhesive application with drop cloth. Get a helper to align the pad starting at the upper corners and work it downwards. Once the upper corners are stuck spot on, rest should be easy.

JamesDean · #68 04-23-2014, 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

The Weldwood brush on contact cement was an experiment that didn't work out for me. The reason the weldwood didn't work (from my observations) was not due to glue failure but from the foam pad acting like a sponge, from the foam pad sitting horizontal and gravity took the adhesive to the bottom immediately upon application. This effect was seen even with the spray adhesive. So My idea to improve the process, and use less adhesive, brush or spray (for you guys to try) is to hang the foam and apply the adhesive as if painting a ceiling.

But why use the Weldwood stuff in the first place? What made you want to try it over the 8090? Just had it on your shelf or?

funola · #69 04-23-2014, 11:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

But why use the Weldwood stuff in the first place? What made you want to try it over the 8090? Just had it on your shelf or?

You have to read the thread from the beginning.

JamesDean · #70 04-23-2014, 11:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

You have to read the thread from the beginning.

So basically you thought 8090 was too expensive and felt that the Weldwood product was equal performance wise and decided to go with that...

funola · #71 04-23-2014, 12:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JamesDean

So basically you thought 8090 was too expensive and felt that the Weldwood product was equal performance wise and decided to go with that...

Yes, basically. Plus a poster says I need 2 cans at first, then later says he meant 2 coats. By that time I already bought a can of Weldwood. I still believe the Weldwood would work just fine if applied with a brush as in painting a ceiling. Or use the Weldwood and rig up a siphon sprayer. It is up to someone else to try it now.

I've seen entire industrial sized sheet rock (next size up from 4' x 8') glued onto walls with Weldwood and nothing else. It should have no problems holding up a foam pad.

JamesDean · #72 04-23-2014, 12:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Yes, basically. Plus a poster says I need 2 cans at first, then later says he meant 2 coats. By that time I already bought a can of Weldwood. I still believe the Weldwood would work just fine if applied with a brush as in painting a ceiling. Or use the Weldwood and rig up a siphon sprayer. It is up to someone else to try it now.

I've seen entire industrial sized sheet rock (next size up from 4' x 8') glued onto walls with Weldwood and nothing else. It should have no problems holding up a foam pad.

I've only ever needed 1 can. Usually 75-80% of it as I've found left over cans in my garage (one is mistaken for bee killer which my mom used on a nest.. I think that just pissed them off more).

I don't doubt the stuff, I think I've got some around the house too.

renaissanceman · #73 02-27-2015, 09:42 PM

I just finished this up on my '87 300d, and it took about a can's worth of 8090, maybe 90%. A little tricky to do, so I ended up doing 1/2 at a time and holding the other side in with dowels.

It looks so classy with a new pad, I'm very happy. I was paranoid about the heat blistering the paint, so I haven't driven it in over a month (since the old one fell totally down).

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