300SD Engine Swap

[otto huber]

I found a good engine to replace the original engine on my car that experienced an oil blow out. I spent several hours today wrenching on the donor car and should be able to lift it out tomorrow morning. Only one hitch so far and that's the driver's side motor mount allen bolt. The passenger bolt snapped loose nice and easy, but the other one rounded out a little bit. I'm going to get a new allen socket in the morning since my current one is a little worn out. If that doesn't work, what are my options? Also, I'd like to swap my old water pump into the new engine, but my local parts supplier said that they don't have a water pump gasket sold individually from the pump. He does however have the water pump housing gasket. Can I remove the water pump housing without unbolting the water pump? Thanks

[Stretch]

I can't remember if there's enough clearance on the water pump housing to remove those long bolts or not - give it a go!

You could make your own gasket though

As for the motor mount trouble you might find that undoing the metal mount at the block gives you enough wiggle space to get the engine out. With the engine gone you would then have enough space to tackle the pesky allen head in comfort...

[pawoSD]

If you have a dealer nearby they can get the gasket without the pump. Can also get it online....

[winmutt]

Are you removing with the trans on or off?

[otto huber]

Originally Posted by winmutt

Are you removing with the trans on or off?

I was planning on leaving the transmission on, but if I can't get that allen bolt out, I might have to leave the transmission in so I can slide the engine to the right so that the studs can clear the engine arm.

[ROLLGUY]

If you are talking about the main bolt that is accessed through a hole in the frame from underneath the car, it can be drilled out (been there, done that). Worst case is you sawzall the aluminum arm, and replace it with the one from the other car. As far as the water pump housing, I believe the pump and housing can be removed as a unit, and put on the other engine.

[otto huber]

I've removed both motors and am now trying to replace the two front seals on the transmission(pump seal, shaft seal). I'm having a hard time figuring out how to get to the bolts on the backside of the pump cover to access the o-ring.
I looked up this thread by Stretch and post #10 illustrates what I need to do:
722.303 in bits photo shoot

For me the little ring of springs is resisting and I don't want to force anything. Does the seal on the shaft need to be removed first? Also, I didn't know that I needed to get a paper gasket and now have to delay the job until tomorrow morning when I can get the part. I'll probably drop the motor in today and mount the transmission tomorrow.

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by otto huber

I've removed both motors and am now trying to replace the two front seals on the transmission(pump seal, shaft seal). I'm having a hard time figuring out how to get to the bolts on the backside of the pump cover to access the o-ring.
I looked up this thread by Stretch and post #10 illustrates what I need to do:
722.303 in bits photo shoot

For me the little ring of springs is resisting and I don't want to force anything. Does the seal on the shaft need to be removed first? Also, I didn't know that I needed to get a paper gasket and now have to delay the job until tomorrow morning when I can get the part. I'll probably drop the motor in today and mount the transmission tomorrow.

Now I'm a bit confused about what's happening...

...but if you want to reseal the front pump I reckon you're better off looking here =>

722.315 Pump Re-seal pictures

[otto huber]

Thanks for the reply. Here is a picture below of where I'm at. I'm trying to replace the o-ring and seal mentioned in this video:Automatic Transmission Seal Leak Diagnosis Part 1 by Kent Bergsma - YouTube

In the link you sent me, it seems to skip the step I need to know in order to remover the bolts the give me access to the o-ring that Ken mentions in the video. Thanks

[Stretch]

How about this

Trans failure question

Or from post #55 #56 and #57 in this one

722.303 in bits photo shoot

[Stretch]

Oh yeah the order of the position of the seals is shown here

http://www.ganzeboom.net/images1/ganzeboom/parts/Mercedes/722.3,%20722.4.pdf

And I will add that once you get in there and take it to bits you will find that it is quite a straight forward job - it is just a case of making a start - it will all come good!

[otto huber]

Thanks Stretch. Is this the tool to use when removing the front seal? : http://www.harborfreight.com/seal-puller-35556.html


Which technique do you use to make sure that the torque converter is seated? I read a couple different takes on that.

Can I use brake cleaner to clean everything up and then soak everything with ATF before reinstalling?

[uneasysunday]

If the allen head bolt is really jacked up and you wanna get it off, pound a torx socket in with a hammer and remove. good luck

[Stretch]

Originally Posted by otto huber

Thanks Stretch. Is this the tool to use when removing the front seal? : Seal Puller w/2 Tips


Which technique do you use to make sure that the torque converter is seated? I read a couple different takes on that.

Can I use brake cleaner to clean everything up and then soak everything with ATF before reinstalling?

Those seal removers are ideal for that job - but - they do have sharp edges and there is a leverage action which means that if you are not careful they can brush / scrape / gouge castings. So use with care!

whunter made a good post on how to seat a torque converter =>

How to Install a Torque Converter

Brake cleaner is ideal on parts that are off of the transmission.

Brake cleaner is great when used sparingly on parts fitted to the transmission but you need to stop brake cleaner from getting into the transmission - it will dilute transmission fluid. Generally speaking it is best to use the cleaning properties of AFT on parts fitted to the transmission. Get some clean brushes / scotch pads etc if you need a bit of vigorous cleaning power (Do NOT use wire wool!) Do not over do it - do not erode surfaces!

[otto huber]

I replaced the front seal, large o-ring and gasket. After finally getting the TC to set all the way back 3 steps I noticed that it takes more effort to rotate the TC than it did before. Is this because of the new front seal and all of the ATF weighing down the TC? I wouldn't say that it's binding, but you can't just push it and let it spin like it does in the donor car's transmission. I have the old style torque wrench, so I may not have been spot on with the 13mm bolts, but I'm in the ball park.