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  #1  
Old 09-11-2013, 01:58 PM
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81 240 WON'T Start after I removed injector lines

So today I removed my injector lines to put in new glow plugs and adjust vavles
Well I didn't have a feeler small enough for intake so I just checked exuust side
Put everything back together now it won't start

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  #2  
Old 09-11-2013, 02:34 PM
David S.
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Franklin, TN
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Is it turning over and just not starting? If so, take a 17mm wrench to the fuel lines and bleed the air out of the system.
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  #3  
Old 09-11-2013, 02:40 PM
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It's turning over I've got charged batter and jump box on it
Tried cracking the lines turned it over for 1 min still no fire
Sparyed wd40. Well pb Blaster in the intake. No fire. Got power to glow pigs
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  #4  
Old 09-11-2013, 02:45 PM
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It's turning over I've got charged batter and jump box on it
Tried cracking the lines turned it over for 1 min still no fire
Sparyed wd40. Well pb Blaster in the intake. No fire. Got power to glow pigs
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  #5  
Old 09-11-2013, 03:11 PM
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You have air in the hard lines to the Injectors.

If you are using the hand primer pump on the side of the IP it will not bleed the air from the Hard Lines.

Tighten the 17mm nuts at the IP but leave the nuts slightly loose on the Injectors. Turn the engine over till you see fuel starting to leak at the Injectors and tighten each nut as you see it. she should fire off.

It takes a bit of cranking to purge out the air, as there isn`t a lot of fuel that the Pump injects into the line as the Cam in the Pump comes around and pushes the plunger.

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

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  #6  
Old 09-11-2013, 03:15 PM
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Ok I'll try bleeding it more. Thanks Charlie
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:31 PM
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are you SURE you only adjusted the exhaust side?

if the intake is adjusted to exhaust specs, the car will not fire...
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  #8  
Old 09-11-2013, 04:01 PM
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I'm not for sure but I went by this

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  #9  
Old 09-11-2013, 04:13 PM
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Ok now my starter is toast maybe this was my problem to start with ? Not enough starting rpm?
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  #10  
Old 09-11-2013, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billydean View Post
Ok now my starter is toast maybe this was my problem to start with ? Not enough starting rpm?
Are you sure you didn't just kill the battery?
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  #11  
Old 09-11-2013, 05:58 PM
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Yeah I removed the starter and bench tested it with 200amp it won't move just buzz
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  #12  
Old 09-11-2013, 06:03 PM
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When you are cranking with the starter, 30 sec, then let it cool for a couple minutes between cranking. you do not want to over heat it.

You need a fully charged Battery to give the Starter it full potential to turn over the engine fast enough t start.

The GP`s will draw it down pretty fast also with several n and off`s of the key.

If you have another vehicle, connect some jumper cables with the engine running to give it some more OOMPH.


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #13  
Old 09-11-2013, 06:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billydean View Post
Yeah I removed the starter and bench tested it with 200amp it won't move just buzz
Sounds like its due for a new one, the solenoid is probably stuck.....its typical to kill a weak starter by extended cranking....
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  #14  
Old 09-11-2013, 08:03 PM
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And once you get the starter changed out and a fresh battery then follow the advice about slightly loosening (aka "cracking") the fuel line nuts at the injectors to release the trapped air.

Here is what is happening.

In a properly functioning engine, the injection pump rotates a cam that operates a small pump under the end of each injector line. That pump (the delivery valve) allows a small amount of fuel per cycle to flow up the injection line. Due to the dimensions of the pump and the dynamics of the fluid flowing through the lines, the volume is very small but the pressure is very high. It has to be high enough to overcome the spring in the fuel injector to open the nozzle (or "pop") the injector.

The volume of fuel delivered on each injection at idle (aka what you have on startup) is much less than what is contained in the line between the delivery valve and the injector. So it takes several shots from the delivery valve to push that fuel all the way to the injector. But since you cannot compress a fluid, the pressure is transmitted along that column of fluid all the way from the delivery valve to the injector nozzle.

The reason for the nozzle is that if you did not have the nozzle, (or a poorly functioning one), the delivered fuel would dribble out the end of the injector instead of being delivered in one shot at exactly the right moment for proper self-combustion inside the cylinder.

If you have air in the fuel line between the IP and the injector, the delivery valve tries to push the shot of fuel through the injector line, but instead it hits the air pocket. The air compresses so the fuel just bounces back and the pressure can't reach the injector nozzle so it does not open. Therefore no fuel advances along the line towards the injector and you just sit there and spin. Cracking the injector nuts lets out the air pocket and allows a solid flow of fuel between the delivery valve and the injector.
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  #15  
Old 09-12-2013, 11:08 AM
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Any time the injection lines are removed, you will experience extended cranking afterwards before the engine fires. This is normal. You need to keep the accelerator to the floor until it starts to fire, and keep it there until the engine is running and starting to rev up. As noted above you shouldn't crank for more than 30 seconds at a time, with a 2+ minute cooldown period. Otherwise you can kill the starter.


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