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  #1  
Old 09-11-2013, 02:30 PM
JB3 JB3 is offline
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windshield aluminum trim questions for 123

Just had a guy come by and replace a windshield in an 85 300D. I had removed the trim before hand as the guy sounded super nervous about it on the phone. He arrived, and did not want to reinstall the aluminum trim, so im not about to force a guy to install something he's afraid to and clearly did not know how to do, so I let him leave without finishing the job.

The windshield is in, and from my reading on here after the fact, he should have installed the trim before putting the windshield in the car and used rope to reinstall (which he did without the trim). Do I have to take it back out, or is it possible to push the trim in using soap and water?

this is a PITA, I know. Please don't remind me I paid someone 300 bucks and it isn't done. Im willing to struggle with it, but I don't want to break the windshield.

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Old 09-11-2013, 02:41 PM
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I don't think your going to be able to do it.....the guy did it to my windshield like this.....I knew he was doing it wrong but I didn't care, I just needed glass in my car.....he got it in, but it took some time and beating it with a mallet...its in, but doesn't look so good.....so yes you can probably do it, but it will be a pita and the trim may not look so great afterwards...
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:50 PM
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dam, well thats not good news

what kind of mallet did he use? im not looking forward to this
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Old 09-11-2013, 02:58 PM
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Get your money back son. I paid $250 for new glass, delivery, and installation when my windshield smashed.
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:13 PM
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dam, well thats not good news

what kind of mallet did he use? im not looking forward to this
Rubber, he used tape to keep one side of the trim down....why he pounded on the other side....and wd40......it was a mess, but so far no leaks but the gasket did tear at the top corner a few months ago...
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:14 PM
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well so far its been a nightmare trying to get the trim in lubricated with soap. pops right out after you get some in and move to a new location. I am already hating both safelite and myself for creating this situation

tapping it with a rubber mallet causes such a terrible bend that im surprised your guy was able to get it in all the way around cooljay
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:22 PM
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To be honest the first time I read that you were meant to fit the trim to the rubber first and then fit it to the window I thought...

...eh? That's not how it is meant to be - that's not how I ever fitted side windows to Chinooks...

Having removed the trim, however, I can see that the trim isn't going to work quite like beading. You might be able to get somewhere by adding the trim after the rubber and window are in place but the last bit will be the worst piece to fit. The problem with the trim is that it is almost as soft as **** and it will buckle and bend and not look nice if bashed, The windscreen is a bit too big for one person to try and shift it about within the rubber seal - which you can do to smaller windows so that you get a bit more space for the trim.
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:27 PM
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To be honest the first time I read that you were meant to fit the trim to the rubber first and then fit it to the window I thought...

...eh? That's not how it is meant to be - that's not how I ever fitted side windows to Chinooks...

Having removed the trim, however, I can see that the trim isn't going to work quite like beading. You might be able to get somewhere by adding the trim after the rubber and window are in place but the last bit will be the worst piece to fit. The problem with the trim is that it is almost as soft as **** and it will buckle and bend and not look nice if bashed, The windscreen is a bit too big for one person to try and shift it about within the rubber seal - which you can do to smaller windows so that you get a bit more space for the trim.
I remember that same beading from fleet truck windshields. You have that nice little tool, you spray some soap, run the tool around the windshield popping the bead inside, and job done.
@#$% Germans had to mess with a beautiful concept and use metal instead of rubber bead.

I wish I had some of that bead on me, id run it in there and call it a day on this car.
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:38 PM
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The stuff I was using was a fabric and rubber compound. I bet you could find it in matt black - then you could say "yeah I've de-blinged it - black ops" blah blah blah "I meant it to be that way"...

...have a look at some of those 1950s automotive trim options out there?
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:01 PM
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well so far its been a nightmare trying to get the trim in lubricated with soap. pops right out after you get some in and move to a new location. I am already hating both safelite and myself for creating this situation

tapping it with a rubber mallet causes such a terrible bend that im surprised your guy was able to get it in all the way around cooljay
Yeah I was too......he was out there for two hours bashing the chrome in.......I did my rear windshield myself on my other Benz , and it was so simple....took me longer to clean the glass......when ever I am back on my feet I am going to do this rear windshield myself and then reinstall the front windshield correctly after I go to the junk yard and get some nice unbent chrome....oh and there were two guys there trying to get the chrome strip in....
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:43 PM
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FSM clearly says glass + rubber + alumimum roped in as an assembly. I was going to have Safelite do my rear defroster glass (since I've never done it before). When the shop was adamant that the aluminum goes in afterwards, I decided to do it myself instead of paying them to screw it up. It was very easy with one helper (w no expereince also).

In your case, I'd suggest showing Safelite the FSM and ask them to redo it correctly. You will need another set of aluminum that are not mangled. If they refuse, ask for your money back and do it yourself. The FSM has a procedure to remove the windshield also.
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:51 PM
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FSM clearly says glass + rubber + alumimum roped in as an assembly. I was going to have Safelite do my rear defroster glass (since I've never done it before). When the shop was adamant that the aluminum goes in afterwards, I decided to do it myself instead of paying them to screw it up. It was very easy with one helper (w no expereince also).

In your case, I'd suggest showing Safelite the FSM and ask them to redo it correctly. You will need another set of aluminum that are not mangled. If they refuse, ask for your money back and do it yourself. The FSM has a procedure to remove the windshield also.

I can use my aluminum, its not ruined from todays attempts. I was being pretty careful
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:06 PM
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I can use my aluminum, its not ruined from todays attempts. I was being pretty careful
That's good! Did Safelite supply a new rubber? Some aftermarket rubbers (like Uro from what I've) read do not have the retainer groove for the aluminum. Study the aluminum, you'll see how it attaches.
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:10 PM
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That's good! Did Safelite supply a new rubber? Some aftermarket rubbers (like Uro from what I've) read do not have the retainer groove for the aluminum. Study the aluminum, you'll see how it attaches.
this may be the issue, safelite did provide a new rubber gasket, the trim does not hook into anything when you push it in. it pops out instantly, even after its dried of soap, which is not consistent it the rubber had any groove in it to hook the trim.

Im thinking this is why I can't get the trim to stay in at all. Ive pushed in the lower trim several times, even waiting after doing half for the rubber to dry around the trim, and it pops out ridiculously easily as soon as I put alternate force on it
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:15 PM
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It won't lock in once the seal is in.....when the glass is out....you can push the trim in, and bend the seal to catch the grove.....once the seal is installed the pressure locks it in place....you would have to get a hook to lift the seal while you push the trim in....and slide the hook down....while pushing the chrome in.....very difficult...

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