Thanks. I'll keep everyone posted...

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

If you broke the driver bit in the xzn bolt, you should try to get the broken bit out before drilling since it is hardened.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I've tried to use the irwin extractor on the 603 bolt heads... no go... too short a head, and too small a diameter...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Yeah, I tried the bolt grip exterior ones from Irwin last night. They would do it if MB gave you more room to work around the bolt... I'm thinking about just drilling about a 1/4" down to see if that would give me enough depth to use an internal easy out. It's looking more and more like I'll need to drill the heads off the bolts though. My father told me to use a drill slightly smaller than the thread diameter, and drill into it, and use an internal extractor to then just twist the bolt head off. Would be safer to the head... It's TOUGH finding a extra long cobalt bit locally here to reach through the cam tower access...

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

A few things that will work, only a partial list as I need to get some stuff done today.

But first, tapered "easy outs" are crap, they will cause yo more grief that you started with. If they don't your bolt really wasn't that stuck in the first place. A bolt extractor will be less strong than any bolt you just broke off, think about that. The only bolt extractor worth getting is made by Ridgid, it is a spline with a sliding nut that will allow you two directional rotation. Many times being able to rotate back and forth in small increments will allow you to break things free, just turning will lead to grief.

Grind the end of the XZN bit flat. Many have a tapered tip for easy insertion but that reduces engagement. ( This also works for allen bits / sockets )

Make sure the bit in fully inserted into the bolt, hit with a hammer to ensure seating., Clean any oil out, oil will allow the bit to slip, clean dirt _OUT OF THE BOTTOM_ as this keeps the but from full engagement. Some grit on the sides actually keeps the bit from slipping.

USE A T HANDLE TO DRIVE THE BIT. When you use a regular ratchet, you are side loading the bit rather than applying pure torque. A regular ratchet tends to lean over pulling the bit out of the bolt. If this side loading isn't constrained, it will also increase thread friction further making it difficult to remove the bolt. This is all physics based, basically when the bolt is stationary, 1/2 of the force you apply a single ended ratchet is translated into lateral force.

If a T handle isn't possible, support the extension as far up as possible _90_* counter clockwise to your direction of force.

Next, take a drift and hammer the top of the bolt,( a small diameter tip can be used for internal XZN / Allen as this stretches the head reducing bolt tension ) this will tend to break the mechanical grip between the bolt head / top of non threaded hole. It will, to a lesser extent, break the grip between the threads. If you have room, hit the head 90* to the bolt so it skates across the hole.

If you feel / see the bit start to strip out , stop, as turning further will only cause you more problems.

If you have access to a acetylene torch or propane oxygen, heat the head, hit with a drift then try to remove. Doing this will relieve bolt tension.

If you get one that just won't come out

BTDT. It is not as difficult as perceived by others. Just do what your father suggested. It does not matter if you drill into the head. You have 3" or more of aluminum to drill thru to render the head useless. Slight damage to the bolt hole surface does NOT matter. The new bolt will still torque down and hold the head in place. All the blemishes will be unseen. Try to do one on the outside before doing the one under the cam. It is a piece of cake.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

Success, so far. In the 4 bolts that stripped, I used dad's Blue Point extractors. I used the first size to grind away the remnants of the 12 points, then used the size larger (after lodging it in with a hammer) to dislodge it. Worked perfect on all of them. I had a jack handle slid over a 1/2 breaker bar. I am amazed those extractors held together. After being pounded into 4 bolts and an insane amount of torque applied to them, the teeth are all intact. Must be fairly mild steel in the head bolts. I started on the last 4 with the bits broken off flush in the bolt, but the drill died before I was far enough through the broken piece of bit. So, it's charging now. Hopefully, I can have the piston Loneranger is needing fairly soon.

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

Oh, and thanks as always for all the suggestions and advice. Strong support team.

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

funny, i was just doing this about an hour ago. i didn't have the bit set in all the way and stripped out the splines. all the others came out fine, but now i have one in the corner by the bump out for the timing gear, next to the valve cover. i thought drilling would risk damage to the head but i can see no other way to do it

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0o==o0

James 4:8

"...let us put aside the blindness of mind of those who can conceive of nothing higher than what is known through the senses"
-Saint Gregory Palamas, ---Discourse on the Holy Transfiguration of Our Lord God and Savior Jesus Christ


Centrally located in North East Central Pa.

PM sent with the details...

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

Any idea what you're supposed to use to get those 2 allen bolts deep down near the timing chain? One bolt is too close to the timing guide to fit an allen socket down there, and I have a hard time believing if I used a real long allen wrench it wouldnt just break under the torque.

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

Long allen bits are not any more likely to break then short ones. They will wind up like a torsion bar so they will feel springy.

Do not use a ball tip allen, it will break off. Hitting bolt the head with a drift will help in breaking stiction. .

Well, I got the two bolts out, and I can lift the head off, Except the chain is still connected through the plastic guide above the vacuum pump. There's a stud that it mounts on. Any ideas on how to get that out to drop the chain?

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

In other words, I have the head loose, but still a stud running through a timing guide that the chain loops around.

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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D

Find the front face of that stud on the outside of the head. It should have a 6mm internal thread.

You can use a 6mm screw with a stack of washers to pull the stud from the head. They also make dedicated pin pullers for this purpose.

Be sure the male thread is completely fully threaded into the pin before you pull...........or real bad things are going to happen.