Have a '74 240d with all the symptoms of a damaged diaphragm. Where can I find the parts. Tried the part numbers on the july thread but no luck. And do I need to remove the injector pump off the block?

I believe this thread has all the info in it that you need...

Injection pump maintenance

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People have said that the Mercedes Dealer is the cheapest source for the Diaphragm; around $75 each.
Can you tell if you are searching with the Bosch Part Number or the Mercedes Part Number?

There is at least 3 threads on replacing the Diaphragm but I am on the Computer at the Library and do not have My notes with Me to post the threads.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Part numbers where one for bosch and mercedes both no results. I have to wait until monday for mercedes dealer parts guy to return from training. Looked at all the threads, still question on pulling the pump off the block? Thank you guys for your input.

You don't have to remove the IP from the engine, simply remove the governer off the back of the injection pump...

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Thanks I will wait for the new part and proceed with cation. Any special tools needed?

I just did this last week on my 73 220D vacuum pump. I ordered all the parts from pelican including new check valves for around $30. The replacement was pretty simple and only took a couple hours. Remove the upper radiator hose and fan shroud, then remove the two vacuum lines that go into the pump. Then screw out the flathead bolts holding the top of the pump and then you will see the diaphragm. A 5mm hex will remove the bolt holding the diaphragm then replace it in the exact order. The diaphragm only goes in a certain direction so make note of the direction from the old one. I also replaced the check valves and gasket.

The diaphragm had a tear near the center and my symptoms were high idle, oil burning, hard brake pedal, and my auto transmission was shifting rough. The new diaphragm fixed all issues.

Hi,

I just got doing the repair, it's a piece of cake.

Once you take the back off you will see the diaphragm, gently pull it out of it's housing. No special tools, it should just come out with a little coaxing.
Once you pull it away from the housing you will see it is hung up by a rod, when you get the new diaphram you will see what I mean.
To remove the diaphragm you will have to remove a "C" clip off of the rod.
Obviously I do not have to tell you how careful you have to be to remove this clip and to make sure it does not fall into the IP. That was the second most nerve racking part of this procedure.
Once the "C" clip is removed the old diaphragm slides of the rod.
Now reverse the procedure. After the diaphragm is slipped onto the rod you have to put the "C" clip back on. This is the most nerve racking part of the procedure. Once again, being careful not to let the clip fall into the IP.
I used the same "C" clip, not wanting to take a chance with some chinese knock off.

Anyway, that's it.

Good luck, I was nervous at first and I was surprised how easy it was.

Dwayne

C4D,

He's doing the Injector Pump, not the Vacuum Pump.

Dwayne

If you don't have a C clip holding the rod on the diaphragm shaft, you'll have a cotter pin.
If you open the IP filler cap you'll have a bit of a better view of what is going on there.

You're going to want to also check the state of the poppet valve cam axle. This is a high wear item and could be the source of your leak.
Around the axle are two O rings that seal the governor. If these are cracked or hardened to the point they don't seal (like mine were) then you'll leak vacuum. Also check the shaft itself for wear. Mine was worn quite a bit and I couldn't find a new one so I filled the worn part with JB Weld, let it cure for a day then sanded it down into a perfect cylinder. It's held for the last 2 weeks and will continue to do so for quite some time but eventually I will replace it.

Get some new nylon and fiber washers as well as new steel or brass ones to shim up the poppet valve cam and make sure it's centered in the right position to actuate the valve when turned.

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

thanks junker 68 and phil. My '74 240d has high idle and leaked oil from the IP. Just want to make sure that my diagnosis is right. Still have to order the diaphragm, any other parts needed?

Thanks mauibenz

Where did it leak oil? Up the venturi tube to the throttle body?
You need a diaphragm which is specific. All the other stuff, I found at hardware stores.
Strangely enough I found that Home Depot had a perfect size piece of stainless steel stock which I'm going to try to fashion a new poppet valve cam axle out of.

When you take the governor housing off, take the poppet cam housing off and unscrew the set screw/rod that holds the cam to the rod. Remove the C clip on one end and slide the assembly apart. Clean the bearing surfaces and examine them as well as the shaft for wear. Take out the old O rings and match them up with ones as close as you can find. I got mine at the Depot as well in the plumbing section. They are just plain nitrile rubber O rings, I forgot what size. That shaft needs to turn smoothly yet the O rings still need to seal it so you'll need to get nylon or fiber washers as well as a very thin strong steel one to both hold the O rings into the poppet cam housing and allow smooth movement. Don't worry if it's a bit stiff in your hand since there will be a good amount of spring force pushing against it. Put a tiny bit of SilGlyde on the O rings just to give them a little help to allow the shaft to rotate smoothly.

The Mercedes part number for the diaphragm is: 000 075 06 07
When I priced it from them a few weeks ago it was $102 and change. Would take a week to get in. I found one on ebay for less and had the seller send it priority. I had my governor fixed in three days.

While you're at it, get a MityVac and suck out that old IP oil before you do the job. If you drop the cotter pin into the IP oil sump, it will be easier to fish it out with a magnet without any oil in there.

Here's my take on the repair:
My "new" 220D and my Mercedes diesel love

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson

My problem was heavy smoke, high idle and I couldn't shut the car off.
When I took off the housing cover I saw the rip on the diaphragm.

I did not have any of the problems Phil described. I guess I was lucky.

Good luck!

Want to thank all who helped on my injector pump diaphragm diagnosis. That was the problem and she's back on the road. Thought that the oil was leaking from the IP but after pulling it all a part and replacing the diaphragm no oil is coming out of the pump. Still have a oil leak to find! Only leaks while driving not while sitting. Oil is ending up on the floor board inside the driver side door. Any thoughts? Have changed the oil pan gasket, still have a leak on driver side of the engine.

You're getting oil inside the car? Down where your feet are?
If so, your oil pressure line which goes to your instrument cluster is probably leaking somewhere.

You could also be sucking oil from the engine compartment via the vacuum shutoff switch behind the ignition switch (same assembly.) The oil could be leaking here and dribbling down the inside of the dash towards the door.

I *think* I got the gist of what your issue was. My apologies if I misunderstood.

Phil Forrest

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1972 220D "Trudy," named by a friend.

"The 220D sounds good... I suspect it is the only car that you need a calendar for, rather than a stopwatch, when doing acceleration tests."
Tom Abrahamsson