The question may be more about whether the engines we're using are compatible with the fuels available in 30 yrs, and whether or not we're willing to pay for that fuel!

You can always have spare parts custom made, then it becomes a cost issue like the newer cars.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

Even my 2013 TDI is compatible with biodiesel.. sort of. From what I've read, the engine can run it no problems, but the emission systems are another matter.

3D printing in metal! Ok, not practical today, but maybe someday
Actually.. that's worthy of its own thread...

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'83 300DTurbo http://badges.fuelly.com/images/smallsig-us/318559.png

Broadband: more lies faster.

I believe VW says no using anything above B5 on the TDI because of the horrible DPF system. If I keep mine long enough for the warranty to go away I'll probably remove it.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

I have to admit, one of the reasons I went with the OM617 in my build was the multi-fuel capability. Will probably (hopefully) only run the occasional tank of biodiesel, but it's good to have the capability to burn other things in a pinch if needed.

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617 swapped Toyota Pickup, 22-24 MPG, 50k miles on swap

B20 is OK if you live in IL

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

:,(

There's only two stations in my whole area that have Biodiesel sadly. One of them has B2, B5, and B20...B100 too but only in quantity.

__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)

back to older engines versus new, I prefer cast iron blocks and heads over this new aluminum.If they have steel liners the better,but I read where liners over time slide in the block bore.I have a screen door thats aluminum with a steel rod.It too, in no time for that steel to wear thru the door.I had to mount steel hinges to keep using door,and its not pretty.
To me thats the same principal with aluminum blocks.I remember the Chevy Vegas,cute,had balls for a few miles.Perhaps they can make new blocks with jugs,like a air cooled VW,then you could rebuild your heart away.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

In my field of work, the industry standard is to depreciate the cost of computer equipment within 3 years. After that point, reliability goes down hill. I am talking about servers and computer equipment that runs 24/7 in a climate controlled environment. In my experience, companies keep said equipment for 6 or more years before reliability and repair cost becomes an issue. I apply the same logic to modern cars and trucks. You can tell a lot about a newer vehicle based on its manufacturer warranty. Take Hyundai for example; they offer a 10 year/100K mile warranty if you buy a new car. Probably one of the best warranties around but most people drive a minimum of 15K/yr; that leaves an owner around 7.5 years of warranty. Most warranties are less than 10 years and 100K miles. From a business perspective, one should not expect to get more out of a vehicle than it is warrantied for. The manufacturer predicts the life expectancy of the product and warranties it for less than predicted. At X years, the dealer determines that the vehicle will be uneconomical to repair at cost: so why should you keep it for longer? Most modern cars are expected to be replaced well within 10 years. My CEO leases a 7 series BMW for a term of 3 years. Why would a man lease a car that he could pay cash for without denting his bank account? Depreciation, cost to own, expected useful service time, etc? Why would you ever want to own a depreciating asset? It would be like buying stock in a falling market but the market is not going to pick up again.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Yes, and no. Two parts may sell at different prices with the higher priced item carrying a longer warranty. Is the second item better? Or is the buyer paying for the "warranty" replacement with the initial purchase? Look carefully.

Where federal law mandates a warranty you can generally expect parts are made well enough so they will not fail within that time. But mfgr's warranties should also be considered in light of how many months a new car is financed. What person in their right mind would agree to 6 to 7 yrs of car payments if the mfgr gives a 2 yr warranty? On the flip side, I can list vehicles that have lost quality from year to year but have not seen any difference in warranty period.

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When life gives you lemmings... make lemmingade.

Remove the cooling fan
Change out the belt(s)
Adjust the injection timing


No comparison...none at all. No thanks