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  #76  
Old 03-24-2014, 12:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by masc243 View Post
Curious, How much chain elongation do you have. I've yet to test my hot engine retarded timing theory yet. I returned from overseas last week ready to change my timing chain, but son sold his jeep and borrowed my 123 so I'm driving my truck until he gets his new car.

At any rate, I believe after a hot freeway run,the chain stretches and retards the timing, lowers the idle below 670 or so at which time the engine begins to shake. Bumping to neutral will tend to raise the idle to 685ish and reduce shaking or even eliminate it.

Hopefully I'll be able to provide more insight on this in the coming weeks.

I've ruled out injectors, Rack Damper, valve clearance, I have the idle as high as I can get it and still be able to force a manual lever shutdown. Any higher on the idle and can not manually kill the engine.
Mike

I have not measured the chain elongation on this car yet. I'm not sure how much the chain can stretch due to engine temp but I would imagine it is minimal. Your theory is interesting and perhaps there is some validity to it since the chain could be worn to the point where it does make a difference now. I should have more info once I determine what my timing is.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #77  
Old 03-24-2014, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
I need to find that piece of injector line I was going to make into a drip test tube. The line came off my F250 and had a buggered flare on one end. I can't see a better use for it now. Do the length/curve of the drip tube need to be exact? I don't recall ever seeing specs on it.
If your IP has the RIV port plug, you can check timing quite accurately without a drip tube but with a light and a mirror. Turn crank shaft clockwise till the tang (or lug as named in the FSM) is centered in the RIV port (engine in compression stroke). Harmonic balancer should be at 15 deg after TDC.
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  #78  
Old 03-24-2014, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by funola View Post
If your IP has the RIV port plug, you can check timing quite accurately without a drip tube but with a light and a mirror. Turn crank shaft clockwise till the tang (or lug as named in the FSM) is centered in the RIV port (engine in compression stroke). Harmonic balancer should be at 15 deg after TDC.

Well, shoot. You're just he11 bent on making my life easier, aren't you? I like it LOL.

I'm pretty sure there is a port for the RIV timing device. There is a little plate with a button looking piece on it. My guess is the plate comes off and the goods are inside. Should I be looking at the cam lobes on #1 to make sure the engine is on the compression stroke? The lobes should not be depressing any valves, correct?
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #79  
Old 03-24-2014, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
Well, shoot. You're just he11 bent on making my life easier, aren't you? I like it LOL.

I'm pretty sure there is a port for the RIV timing device. There is a little plate with a button looking piece on it. My guess is the plate comes off and the goods are inside. Should I be looking at the cam lobes on #1 to make sure the engine is on the compression stroke? The lobes should not be depressing any valves, correct?
Yes, #1 cam lobes pointing up.

http://mercedes.thatchermathias.com/w123CD2/Program/Engine/617/07_1-111.pdf

Same procedure except doing it visually, centering the lug instead of the expensive AB light. You'll have to have one of those 3/4" round telescopic inspection mirrors and angle it perfectly for sighting the lug accurately. Easier with helper unless you can rig up a borescope centered in the RIV port.
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83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #80  
Old 03-28-2014, 01:24 PM
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Hopefully I will have some time this weekend to check my timing like funola has mentioned.

I have noticed that the symptoms have become more and more unpredictable. Sometimes the car idles fine when hot and in park but shakes in any gear. Rarely will will it idle fine in gear but it does happen occasionally. Sometimes it smooths out when I put the car in neutral and sometimes there is no change in idle. I have been getting a rough idle when cold, intermittently, during the last few weeks. I noticed last night when I got home from a highway run, the engine was shaking and I could hear that combustion was not happening evenly. It was not rhythmic, so I can't say it was one cylinder but it seemed to come and go at various times and sometimes so close together that it would not be the same cylinder. It was not a dead cylinder but more like random timing across the cylinders.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #81  
Old 03-28-2014, 02:21 PM
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...and during the summer it will be (mostly) nightmare
my bet is still DV's or IP all together.....

.
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next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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  #82  
Old 03-29-2014, 02:53 PM
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Well, ladies and gentlemen, I am above exuberant to report that I have solved the shaking idle issue in this 300SD!!! I'm so happy, I could cry! I replaced all 5 delivery valves, springs and associated fittings with parts I pulled from PNP several weeks ago. I pulled the whole element from the PNP car but I did not remove the elements on my car.

I went several miles on a test drive and this car does not even want to shake any more. I will post a little video I made as soon as it uploads to YouTube.

Thank you, everyone who helped and guided me along this crazy journey and all of its variables! I am going to get fitted for a Tuxedo, today, with my fiance and we are taking MY car to the store and no more boobie shaking!
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #83  
Old 03-29-2014, 03:12 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lC1RbgXMATE&feature=youtu.be
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #84  
Old 03-30-2014, 01:38 AM
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Fantastic result. Any idea if perhaps just cleaning and re-installing your existing delivery valves might have worked as well? Did you find particles or gunk on them? I worry that junkyard delivery valves are another unknown.

I wonder if people here overly worry about new brass washers (not avail) when removing delivery valves. I have re-used mine on #1 when measuring "start of delivery" on both my engines and see no leaks or issues. I just polished the ends a bit with 600 grit sandpaper. The "annealing" some mention sounds real technical, but I don't understand that need. I am a mechanical engineer and do recall a little about annealing from school. Perhaps they can elaborate. If no problem re-using the washers, I'll bet many people here would remove and inspect their delivery valves next time they have the injection tubes off. Then maybe most of our engine rocking problems would go away. It is embarrassing sitting at a stop light with your car rocking, and teenagers in another car mocking you, making rocking-boat hand signs. The indignities we suffer to keep these old diesels on the road.
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  #85  
Old 03-30-2014, 04:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
Well, ladies and gentlemen, I am above exuberant to report that I have solved the shaking idle issue in this 300SD!!! I'm so happy, I could cry! I replaced all 5 delivery valves, springs and associated fittings with parts I pulled from PNP several weeks ago.
Finally.....Good job !

.
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next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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  #86  
Old 03-30-2014, 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Fantastic result. Any idea if perhaps just cleaning and re-installing your existing delivery valves might have worked as well? Did you find particles or gunk on them? I worry that junkyard delivery valves are another unknown.

I wonder if people here overly worry about new brass washers (not avail) when removing delivery valves. I have re-used mine on #1 when measuring "start of delivery" on both my engines and see no leaks or issues. I just polished the ends a bit with 600 grit sandpaper. The "annealing" some mention sounds real technical, but I don't understand that need. I am a mechanical engineer and do recall a little about annealing from school. Perhaps they can elaborate. If no problem re-using the washers, I'll bet many people here would remove and inspect their delivery valves next time they have the injection tubes off. Then maybe most of our engine rocking problems would go away. It is embarrassing sitting at a stop light with your car rocking, and teenagers in another car mocking you, making rocking-boat hand signs. The indignities we suffer to keep these old diesels on the road.
I did not even remove the crush washers from the element bodies. I installed the new parts and properly torqued it all to spec. I still need to clean the IP off and check for leaks but what I did has no ill effect on the way the engine runs.

The delivery valve components I pulled from this IP were oxidized with a brown coating. It feels like rust. I'll post picture of what I pulled out in the next day or so. The new delivery valves and components were much cleaner. My best guess is that one or more of the old DVs were not sealing well or sticking.

Annealing makes metal more malleable and in the case of seals, allows the seal to conform to make a seal.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #87  
Old 03-30-2014, 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by cho View Post
Finally.....Good job !

.

Thanks Cho. I have to say that I was leaning toward your suggestions pretty early on but I wanted to cover my bases before tackling an IP swap. Luckily, I didn't have to go that far.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #88  
Old 03-30-2014, 12:50 PM
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Good ending! Kudos for being persistent!
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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked
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  #89  
Old 03-30-2014, 03:59 PM
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Now it really is rocking!
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

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  #90  
Old 03-30-2014, 06:46 PM
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Out-Freakin Standing!

Well done and thanks for sharing the video. Like night and day compared to video posted last year.
Mike

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