I've read through the threads, great pics of the drip tube and timing mark and all that. My car pours at 26before. Can't find the rear bolts to loosen to adjust.

Does anyone have a pic of the bolt locations??

Sorry to be dense but the front two were easy, I've been all over that thing and can't find the rears and don't want to just start unbolting stuff off of an IP hoping it's a mount bolt.....

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

There should be three on the front and one at rear-most part of the IP between the IP and oil filter can. The one at the rear mounts to a bracket - supposing it was reinstalled if/when someone in the past removed it. It is a lot of fun to gain access to.

Sorry, I don't have a picture on hand. I can take one later, though.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Found 'em, thanks for description, read everything in DIY and somehow missed that 3 were in front.

Still screwed though, mine isn't acting right, so I'm doing it wrong I suppose. At first it just dripped solidly pretty much no matter what position the crank was in.

Then after reading forums again for an hour looking for those bolts, I went back out and it won't drip in any location unless I pump the hand pump, then it'll shoot straight out the tube (and the loosened banjo on the filter).

Pretty much left it all for the night as I was beating my head and not getting anywhere.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

When you time the IP....you must tie the throttle so it is wide open.....then you remove the element, install the drip tube....then you pump the primer and watch the drip....you have to open the oil cap and make sure both cam lobes on cylinder one are pointing up aka not pushing the valves open....I believe you set the it at 24btdc....

FSM directions here low pressure method..

07.1 Diesel Injection System - OM617

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Yar, I had the FSM printed out with me. If I pump on the hand pump, it just shoots a stream, no drip, and does it in most crank positions.

I've got a the NC Sectional match tomorrow so I'll tackle it again after putting lots of lead down-range. Maybe it'll become clearer.


Edit: I may have figured it out....half blind old guy strikes again. FSM shows loosening a banjo bolt, I think I did the wrong one ..... Will find out tomorrow afternoon.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

If you have it set at 24 and pump the primer....with throttle full open and it squirts.....then you have to move the pump while priming till it starts dripping.....if it doesn't drip, then you have to pull the pump out and put it back in, a few teeth over, so you can move it to make it drip.....if the pump was ever removed by a po....you may have to remove it, line up the notch....lock the IP and reinstall it....with enough room to rotate it to drip....

Its not easy and a helper is almost mandatory.....I gave up on mine and told my friend to do it....I checked it back in January and see its not squirting or dripping no matter the position.....so I need to remove mine....lock it and reinstall it...moving it over a tooth or two, to allow me to make it drip.....its on the way back burner of the project list....as the car runs fine with no black smoke and gets the correct mpg....just a little uneven idle....

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It is better if you have someone Pump on the Hand Primer while you rotate.

If you are doing it yourself mark the scribe a mark a crossed the Block and Pump Flange so you can always return it to the same spot.
Remove all the Fuel Injection Hard Lines from the IP as it makes it hard to turn.

What I do is I pump on the Hand Primer and watch the drips. If not OK I nude the Pump tiny bit and tighten one Nut on the IP flange so it will not rotate and pump on the Hand Primer and watch the drips. And, keep repeating that.

You only want to count the drips when the Hand Primer is being used and the pressure is up.

Also I never loosened any Banjo Bolts. I think that is something in the Manual that connects to an apparatus to keep you from dripping on the ground.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

If it would be helpful I can take some pics of mine tomorrow. My mostly complete engine still on the bench so I can get to it and have clearance to take pretty unobstructed pics.

Lemmie know......

Dan