I'm headed to look at a truck today that has been sitting outdoors for seven years since being parked. It was running and driving when it was parked. It's not a diesel (or a mercedes) it's an 1970 F-250. Regardless, anyone have thoughts on things to watch out for after sitting this long?

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Serenity-86' 300SDL 482,000 miles (on a "14" head!)

Gas will be bad. Do not attempt to start it on the existing fuel. Tank will need to be drained. You could start it on an alternate fuel supply.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I'm expecting bad fuel (more likely varnish) so i'm bringing some fuel and hoses to hopefully rig something.

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Serenity-86' 300SDL 482,000 miles (on a "14" head!)

I've 'rescued' dozens of long sitting vehicles. Cars, motorsicles, boats, etc.

Most folks will argue about 'what' to put down the cylinders, but they'll agree on putting something down there.

I wouldn't even try and see if it was locked until I had at least light motor oil misted into each cylinder.

I've used different tactics over the years, but I start with a spray lubricant (not a penetrant yet), let it sit an hour, and then with the plugs out very gently try and turn the engine with the crank bolt.

If it spins easily, great, spin it a few times by hand to spread the lubricant, clean plugs and replace. Change the oil and filter. Go for main engine start.

If it doesn't spin easily by hand, don't apply force. Pour your favorite penetrant in each cylinder, replace the plugs, and wait a few days, then try a gentle rocking back and forth motion on the crank. Should break free. If it doesn't, then you're likely looking at least a minor rebuild, as there will be a rust ridge from the rings on the cylinder walls.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

I've heard ATF is good for the long soak if necessary. Any experience?

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Serenity-86' 300SDL 482,000 miles (on a "14" head!)

ATF is good for soaking rings, but it takes at least a few days. I'd wait a week. Then change oil, and crank it over without the plugs in, for 20 or so rotations, to expel the remaining ATF and get the oil circulating. This has worked well for me.

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'79 240D

I was a bit wary of being lubricant specific as that's holy war in some places. My drug of choice for a penetrant these days is ATF mixed with acetone.

I brought back an old saab Sonett that had been sitting in a compost heap at a horse farm for a good 15 years. Motor was stuck, left it was atf/acetone in the cyls, went back every few days and poured a little more in.

That went on for a month, I'm patient, just rocked it back and forth on the crank bolt, not real hard. One day it let lose so I turned it over by hand a bunch, kept lubing the heck out of the cylinders with cheap 30w, then finally poured some gas down to clean it out.

Changed oil and after the initial smoking that car never smoked or used oil. I got lucky, often by that point the rings have made a rust ring and they'll clip it on the way.

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Eric, CPO, Submarines, retired.
Here's a sig line...
Mine: '68 Corvette LS1/4L65E, 83 240D, 2000 GMC 4x4, 08 FLSTC Anniv
Hers: '72 Corvette 454/4spd, '99 MB SLK, '93 Metro vert, 78 240D, '92 Silverado, '65 Fjord Rustang, '59 Fjord Fairlane, '17 Slingshot.

A lawn mower tank makes a great temp fuel supply.

As others said, lube cylinders and rock back and forth. ANY thin oil will be fine, ATF is easy because it is can be gotten at any auto parts where 10W motor oil is more difficult. ( 10/30 won't work )

Also, be sure to leave the plugs out and crank the engine ( with the starter ) until you get oil pressure, stop, then crank again.

Is this a auto trans or standard? If auto , make sure there is fluid way up the stick, you don't want to burn the pump bushing out. If standard, the clutch is likely stuck, ( rusted to the flywheel ).

Before putting fuel to it, make sure the throttle moves and returns to idle. Check coolant , power steering fluid ) When the engine does start, don't rev it, let it idle slow and get oil moving to the top end. If it stalls just restart. Check trans fluid if you can see something on the stick you are OK.

Lastly, the brake lines are likely rusted so plan your movements as needed.

I'd pull the carburetor too... likely it's full of powder, and stopped up.
wouldn't hurt to bring a battery powered fuel pump attached to a lawn mower tank or a boat tank to get fuel flowing through the carb first...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Well it looks like I'm buying it. I'm hoping to load it onto a trailer with a come-along and some chain. Does anyone think I'll have a problem getting it to roll?

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Serenity-86' 300SDL 482,000 miles (on a "14" head!)

depends on the location, but brakes are DIFFICULT to free up if parts are severely frozen.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Usually the rings are rusted to the cylinder walls, but could be very weakly. I agree w/ turning the crank by hand first. I would spray WD-40 and work the crank back and forth, like you do when freeing a rusted nut. I wouldn't try turning over the engine with the starter until you get the oil flowing. Some engines (Chrysler V-8's I know) allow spinning the oil pump by removing the distributor drive shaft and inserting a long rod. Instead, I have used a hand garden sprayer filled with oil connected to the oil sender port. Especially try to spray lubricant on the camshaft, since it is the first to fail from no oil.

MMO!!!!

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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual
1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street

1974 240D, New paint