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  #1  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:47 PM
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Help to ID part-control arm? Torsion bar?

Greetings,

This may sound like a stupid question, but no source I have checked, including my Haynes, references this particular part. 1984 300D. It is not the front upper control arm, but it does connect to the ball socket that is in the control arm. It is part of the location of the front wheels, and the source is just behind the top of the wheel from the inside of the fender, horizontal to the control arm, and ending at the ball joint on the control arm.

The threaded portion of mine on the driver side broke off today, so it is not connected to the control arm and can not be reconnected due to the break. The parts must be replaced. I can not find this part to get an idea at the costs, and I assume it is best to do both sides as well given the nature of the part.

What is it called?

Thanks,
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  #2  
Old 10-09-2013, 08:53 PM
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ohhh nooo it sounds like the end snapped off your torsion bar. search the catalog for the makeshift repair piece, otherwise you gotta tear out a lot of stuff to replace the entire bar.
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  #3  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:00 PM
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Yes that is the case. I see the repair kit but don't really understand it. It looks like maybe the cap is welded over a clean break? This may signal the end. Damn car runs great, though.
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  #4  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:02 PM
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yes, i dont have personal experience but there are some threads on here about it. it needs to be welded on, but from what i've read any semi-competent welder can complete the job easily
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  #5  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:11 PM
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Is this the sway bar?
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  #6  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattmacklind View Post
Yes that is the case. I see the repair kit but don't really understand it. It looks like maybe the cap is welded over a clean break? This may signal the end. Damn car runs great, though.
It's really a pretty simple repair job. The kit comes with new control arm bushings, washers, and nut. No other parts are required, as long as the UCA is still good. The torsion bar end has to be chopped down a half-inch. A cutoff wheel on a peanut grinder will take care of that in no time. The sleeve is fitted on and welded. You have to take a bit of paint off the torsion bar to facilitate a good weld. Then a little touch up paint to finish the job. I recommend painting as much of the sleeve as possible too. Even though it is stainless, it will rust. The whole job took me an hour or so, and it has held for 10K miles so far.

There are other techniques that have been described in these pages. YMMV with those. This is the best solution if you value your time.
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  #7  
Old 10-09-2013, 09:49 PM
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technically, it's a torsion bar, but yes. it's the antisway bar that has multiple functions, as it not only maintains vehicle flatness through a turn, it also maintains the arc in the upper control arm, keeping the wheels pointed where they are supposed to be.
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  #8  
Old 10-09-2013, 10:38 PM
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Here is what you need




Here is a how to repair it.


Broken Torsion Bar! aka Sway Bar - How to fix without having to replace! Suspension - Auto-Trend Repairs and Service Information Forums


Charlie
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  #9  
Old 10-09-2013, 11:33 PM
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Sounds straight forward. I don't weld, and don't know any welders. This doesn't sound like the kind of repair an auto shop would likely perform liability wise, as good as a weld can be. I might consider the option and see what I can come up with asking around. I've driven this car on and off for 12 years now (used to be on this board under a different name, lost it when it became Peach Parts).
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  #10  
Old 10-09-2013, 11:42 PM
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All the weld does is prevent the sleeve from slipping off the end of the torsion bar. Weld quality is not critical for a successful repair.
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  #11  
Old 10-10-2013, 12:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Here is what you need
...
Pelican Parts.com - Mercedes Torsion Bar Saver, S Class Models


.
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  #12  
Old 10-10-2013, 12:21 AM
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check your local craigslist for mobile welders. it really shouldn't cost that much.
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  #13  
Old 10-10-2013, 12:37 AM
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Found a welder for you.

123/126 front sway bar saver

This is what the weld should look like. Not a Bubble Gum weld.

123/126 front sway bar saver


Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...ilys/boobs.gif


Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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