the bolts must be cleaned and all traces of oil and such removed with brake spray, and then fresh BLUE LOCTITE must be used on the bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle...

NEVER USE ANTISIEZE/NEVERSIEZE.... NEVER!!!

those bolts must be either replaced with MB new bolts, or all traces of lube/oil/dirt/old loctite MUST BE REMOVED DOWN TO BARE METAL!!!
and fresh blue loctite put on the threads...
ALWAYS!!!

I just pulled the calipers off Jay_Bob's 98E300D, because whenever he backed up, hit the brakes, then pulled forward and hit the brakes, there would be an ominous CLUNK.
he had me listen to it, and it sounded like caliper noise.
pulled the calipers...

the bolts were assembled with antisieze... I did not need a wrench to remove the driver's side...

wow...

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

It's a good idea to just replace the bolts. Good quality hardware can be purchased from *************** or MB for cheap, and the blue Loctite comes pre-installed on the bolts' threads!

Cheers,
Gerry


Please do not list online parts websites on this forum

you can buy the fronts new, but i've never seen them for the rear, and was told to just reuse them, with fresh loctite

__________________
1981 NA 300D 310k miles

Unhinged troll alert...*

*OD joke. I'm not serious.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

OK -- I have a slightly related question. When I put new brake pads in our Sienna, I forgot to put the little packet of lube that came with the pads on the pad sliders... is that a bad thing? Should I take the calipers off again and lube the pads?

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

You should always clean and re-lube the sliders.

-J

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

OH yeah, Anti-Siez on the Caliper Bolts. HMMM...well I wont mention any names of who the dumb azz was that worked on my Datsun PU last.....

I ...I mean my mechanic replaced the whole suspension front to rear back in 06. ball Joints, bushings, upgraded the solid Rotors to the vended Rotors used from 83 - 86 and larger calipers. replaced the U-joints with Factory original from the dealer. replaced the Diff with a new one, I mean new in the original Nissan wrapper for $250.00. and the same gear ratio. and replaced the rear original axle bearings with 450K miles.

I drove up to Alameda, Ca to help Otto Huber do his eng swap, and when I passed a parking spot, so backed up and ....BANG. thought I backed into a car or hit someone. HMMMM no car or body under the truck.

left for home in the evening and all was well

Next morning I back up in the yard to pukll away from the barn, and....BANG and the truck lurtched to the R/R corner like that wheel locked up.

Removed the R/R wheel and pulled the Brake Drum to check on the shoes etc. took it all apart and replaced it. backed up and BANG.

Well it has to be something with the Diff, so drop the driveline, pull the axles out far enough to pull out the Diff. and replace it with another one. same problem. then thinking (bad idea ) something could be an axle problem, maybe broken or??? so pull out both sides, and they look good.

Jacked up the truck, start the eng and put it in gear. forward or reverse in any gear, nothing, turns ok.

Iam almost ready to call PNP Iam so frustrated, but quickly squelched that notion.

I had the engine and trans out to replace the bearings in the trans last June, and thought maybe there was something I screwed up on that project. But did make a 1700+mile trip to Portland Or. and brought home a Diesel eng, 2 240D trans and FW and driveline. 9 gallons of synthetic oil and a new Turbo charger kit for a 240D that is brand new old stock. so really had a load. plus our luggage and a bunch of wifey stuff.

Later on I jacked up the front end to check things, rotated the R/F wheel forward and turns ok, but turned the other way and BANG. it stops. WTF???

pull the wheel and there is a fresh gouge mark in the steel. what could have snagged that? I was the caliper, but it was sitting where it is suppose to. looked on the back side, and the upper bolt was gone. and the lower one was unscrewed a ways.

When I backed up then the Rotor turning to the rear would let the Caliper move back with it and catch the inside of the wheel.

Luckly Iam a pack Rat and had some extra Caliper bolts and replaced them. Anti-Siez is good for most things, but Caliper Bolts isn`t one of them.
Now the next time I get together with my mechanic........

As far as the MB goes, there is nothing wrong with cleaning off the bolts and reapply new lock Tite. I can`t really see replacing them, the bolts don`t go bad. but to each his own I guess.


Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

The real reason why they sell the bolts is to prevent human error.

MB and other car companies cannot trust the person servicing the car will properly clean and Loctite each bolt. So they keep it simple stupid by selling new clean bolts with Loctite precoated on them.


So if you can be trusted to clean the bolts properly and Loctite them, you can save a few bucks. If not, then it is wise to spend the few bucks.


.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Is the same true for the "always replace" CV axle bolts?

-J

__________________
1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

Yes I only have experience directly buying & replacing the front bolts, for the 126. Why wouldn't the rears be available as well?

For the 560SEC, for example, the part number for the rear caliper bolt is 123 423 00 71. Cost via mail order vendor the the MB part is $4.32 each.

For the 500E, for example, the part number for the rear caliper bolt is 000 423 17 71. Cost via mail order vendor for the MB part is $3.12 each.

The EPC seems to show that the rear caliper bolts are available for most if not all models. Certainly, reusing the old ones is an option, but they are quite cheap to replace with new. I just recently did this when I replaced the front rotors & pads on my 560SEC.

Cheers,
Gerry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Which ones are you talking about? If you are talking about a hub bolt that requires a certain amount of torque and then a 90 degrees turn. Then, yes that bolt needs to be replaced. If you are talking about the axle flange bolts, KISS applies here also.


.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Best practice is to remove the pads, clean out their sliders with a wire brush (don't breathe brake dust) and apply thin coat of paste to the sides & back of the metal pad backing plates. Otherwise you may well get brakes that squeal like an unhinged troll.

Cheers,
Gerry


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

Ah, that's good -- I won't bother taking it apart unless they squeal, then (6000+ miles on it already). Unhinged trolls don't squeal, they growl. Like the Corolla when I floor it in low second. gROWr!

John, sorry for the threadjack. I never thought I would sink this low.

__________________
"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes

1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."

There is also a lot of people out there that replace Brake Calipers and do not have Torque Wrench.
There is also Mechanics that don't only use a Torque Wrench on what they feel needs to be Torqued regardless of what a Manual tells them (assuming they have read the Manual).

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I've done both cleaning the bolt threads and using the blue loctite stuff and using new MB bolts, same result, no issues.

Torqued properly.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD