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  #1  
Old 10-18-2013, 12:19 PM
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95 E300D, starter wont engage, just makes wizzing sound

For a couple of months my starter didnt sound right, hard to explain but it sounded like it wasnt seated properly. SUct recently the starter does not engage and just spins.

WHat should I do first? I was about to sell it and this occurs. I dont want to sink alot of money that I wont get back. Id really like to know if its the harness or the solenoid or the starter. It has 275,000 and runs great. Thanks for any advice!
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  #2  
Old 10-18-2013, 12:37 PM
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I'd pull it off. Take it apart and clean and grease it and see if it works... or just call thayer. He's looking for a project 95 E300
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  #3  
Old 10-18-2013, 01:10 PM
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Would have the instructions on how to remove? THanks again!
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  #4  
Old 10-18-2013, 07:56 PM
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Mechanically other than crud in the starter it could be the Over Running Clutch is shot or the Ring Gear Teeth are all burred up and keeping the Starter Gear from Engaging. But, you will see the Ring Gear when the Starter is removed.

The burrs can be filed or ground off if there is room to get at them.

I don't know if we have specific instructions in the DIY section for your Year and Model.

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Disconnect your Negative Battery Cable for sure on this job.

If it has Allen Head Bolts like the earlier Models you need to be sure the crud is cleaned out of the Head and that the Allen Wrench End of the Socket is does not have too much or a rounded end on it. If you want to get the Full Bit of the Allen Wrench end you need to grind it flat.

On some of the Models there is limited room to pull the Starter off and outonce it is loose. Some have had to drop the Tie Rod or other Steering Rods.
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  #5  
Old 10-18-2013, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
Mechanically other than crud in the starter it could be the Over Running Clutch is shot or the Ring Gear Teeth are all burred up and keeping the Starter Gear from Engaging. But, you will see the Ring Gear when the Starter is removed.

The burrs can be filed or ground off if there is room to get at them.

I don't know if we have specific instructions in the DIY section for your Year and Model.

DIY Repair Links
DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum
PeachPartsWiki: Do It Yourself Articles - Mercedes Vehicles

Disconnect your Negative Battery Cable for sure on this job.

If it has Allen Head Bolts like the earlier Models you need to be sure the crud is cleaned out of the Head and that the Allen Wrench End of the Socket is does not have too much or a rounded end on it. If you want to get the Full Bit of the Allen Wrench end you need to grind it flat.

On some of the Models there is limited room to pull the Starter off and outonce it is loose. Some have had to drop the Tie Rod or other Steering Rods.
Over run clutch is so common as a problem like this. Lost count of the number I have replaced over the years.
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  #6  
Old 10-19-2013, 12:59 PM
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Would you know if I pulled out the heated window washer fluid resivoir if that would provide more room from top to get at it? I recently had a few discs replaced in my back and still dont have good mobility/

What exactly is a over run clutch?
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  #7  
Old 10-19-2013, 01:03 PM
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Also I noticed one of the small connections on solenoid held on with a 8mm nut was loose. Would this have anything with causing this issue? I did tighten it up first but the starter still does not engage. Also tried wacking the starter with a mallet, no luck.
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  #8  
Old 10-19-2013, 01:39 PM
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The Overrunning Clutch is the assembly that the Starter/Pinon Gear is attached to.
That is the one that many people keep calling the Bendix; although this Starter does not have a Bendix type unit on it.

The Overrunning Clutch has a one way ratcheting device behind the Gear that allows the Gear to be free if it is turned the wrong way and I believe there is also some Friction Plates in side.

When the Friction Plates wear out the Engaged Gear remains stationary and the Motor Spins.

The Mercedes Starter is extremely similar to a Delco Starter you would have found on most GM Vehicles back in the 1970s and before.

See post #3 for a pic of the parts inside of the Starter.

Starter continues to engage
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  #9  
Old 10-19-2013, 09:10 PM
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Hello again,

I removed the starter and had it tested. It passed, everything worked WTF? When I was removing it I noticed that the wire on the solenoid was loose, so before I removed it I tightened it and reinstalled the battery but still the starter whined without the bendix(?) engaging.

So what do you think, should I just reinstall it and make sure every connection is tight and smear with dielectric grease? Thanks
BTW the amp draw was 109, the first time they did the test this part of the test failed, but the second time it passed.
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  #10  
Old 10-19-2013, 09:35 PM
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...
a bench tested starter pulled 109AMPS on the BENCH???

NFW!!

take it to other parts stores and have SEVERAL tests done.
I'm betting you have a bad solenoid.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!
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  #11  
Old 10-20-2013, 06:11 PM
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I think that was the number however all factors were green and all passed. Could the loose wire screw around with how the starter worked?
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  #12  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:52 PM
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its a very common starter - the solenoid connection is actually two windings, one is the pull and one is the hold coil one is grounded from the commutator and one is grounded from the body of the solenoid.

If any one fails the starter seems to disengage whilst cranking - happened on a 1.6D VW starter with me - very similar to MB starter and i replaced the solenoid. I also had to replace the overrun clutch as it was bad too.
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  #13  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:53 PM
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Will do thanks for the help! Id hate to take this starter out again even though it wasnt as bad as I thought it would be.
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  #14  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:56 PM
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When I checked the Amperage on My Starter (on the Engine) it was about 150 amps. At that time it had under 225K miles on it.

But, an Electrical Test does not test the Overrunning Clutch.

My Volvo Diesel has a similar Bosch Starter. I have twice had to File the Ring Gear teeth to remove the metal burs. The burs kept it Starter Gear from engaging in some spots.
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  #15  
Old 10-20-2013, 07:56 PM
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How can I tell if its the solenoid or overrun clutch that is bad? Where can I get these parts without being hosed over. If its a dealer only part it may be cheaper to purchase a new(refurbished)starter than to purchase the damaged parts from MB directly.
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