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#61
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Quote:
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Apologies for the lack of ISO standard drawing practices! ^^^ This rough sketch shows a quarter cross section of the piston - I hope it is understandable...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#62
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http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/341121-achtung-das-schweinhund-baby-benz-thread-5.html Help my M102 is a whinger! I've been told that a similar set up exists on diesel engines of the same period. These tensioners are not just a spring like the OM617a tensioners and not like the hydraulic OM617 / OM616 non turbo tensioners that should be filled with engine oil prior to refitting... ...I know I've kind of bitten myself on the arse for all of this extra work but I do feel I've had enough punishment for a RTFM blip - I've been sold a 2.0 litre head that won't fit my 1.8 litre engine and that seller is being a cock asking for more money for a second hand 1.8 litre one that will probably be as just as bad as the 2.0 litre one he sold me "by accident" with pitted valve surfaces and worn guides etc etc <= so I have little confidence in him. This is a shame I've bought loads of stuff from him previously but have never tried to send anything back. He's lost a good customer. The cost of head refurbishment here in Holland is going to be between 500 and 700 euros from a reputable place. In fact there's only this "good place"near to me - I don't know of any cow boys! Anyway now chasing down a "brand new" Carlson head that should be good - bought via paypal so I should have a bit of protection (perhaps) but that bugger doesn't seem to have sent it yet... ...and of course the piston nightmare continues with a different seller (first time used) who has sent me a set of pistons that are incompatible with each other. This is called banging your head against a brick wall.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#63
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When life gives you lemmings... make lemmingade. |
#64
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Are you able to post pics of each piston? ( are the casting numbers / general shape the same on all? )
Got it on the 4 mm thickness of material. I'd do a few things here: It would be a good idea to cover the outer skirts with tape during grinding. Be sure to weigh the piston pre / post tape then calculate your target weight, don't try to remember it as target with tape will be more than desired bare piston. Make sure of piston weights. On the heavy ones, remove the casting boss on the left side of your last pic. Increase the OD of my green cut but only in an area that does not enter or reduce the profile of the skirt ( the red area ) This can be done by hand with a die grinder. The center of the red area is what keeps the piston from rocking left to right, as you travel towards the pin the loads are taken up by each end of the red area. The pin area does nothing for front to rear location. Remember you only need to get within 10 G not 0 if enough material to remove can't be found. |
#65
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Piston pictures
Going from left to right in this picture
614 grams, 617 grams and 633 grams - these are weights with the pins and the rings fitted In this picture the line continues showing 617 grams, 633 grams and 634 grams (weight values refer to with pins and rings fitted) So using a bit of a crap method I shoved my digital caliper in as far as it would go and made some measurements of the wrist pin boss area of the pistons Measurements shown in next post due to number of attachment restrictions...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#66
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Nural piston measurements
This method is a bit changeable you can get slightly different results with a bit of wriggling but I think is shows where a lot of the extra weight probably is...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#67
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Muhammad and mountains
Whilst it looks like a some metal removal might get me closer to the desired weight of the lighter pistons...
...how about going the other way and adding weight to the lighter ones? Could a steel bolt with a countersunk head bolted to the skirt be an option? (I think I remember hearing about large lumps of metal being bolted to pistons in ship engines...)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#68
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Unless you're welding on aluminum it will come off later. Drilling & tapping is asking for a crack in a few miles.
If you can't get Nural on the phone I'd grind down the heavy ones
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#69
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That seems to be the plan at the moment. I'm a bit concerned about this uncharted territory though - give me a gear box and bearings and I'm a happy man but metal removal with a proxon multi tool...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#70
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You only need to find 9 to 10 G from the heavy ones.
Working the areas I recommended won't reduce strength, just be sure not to leave any sharp internal corners as this leads to cracking. Got an old piston to practice on? Before cutting, you could always mark the piston and post a pic to make sure we are talking about the same areas. |
#71
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Oh for a milling machine - my kingdom for a milling machine...
...bor-or-or-or-or-or-ing...
I've managed to remove 6 grams from one half side of the heaviest piston so far. Most of this material was removed from places that are easy to access. On Monday I'll see if I can get hold of a milling cutter with about a 6mm diameter to get down into the depths to hoik out a bit more - then I'll start on the other side of the piston... I have found that those multi-colured stones on sticks that get sold with those mulit-tool machines are kind of OK but the best results come from the little bands of sand paper that you fit on the expanding rubber bungs on sticks. Ignore the brushes in the picture below - the sand paper things are the bits I mean
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#72
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for aluminum, I use wide flute milling bits. the sandpaper, and close flute bits clog up too quickly...
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#73
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The sand paper method is definitely arsing about though - a milling machine is the thing to have - no doubt. This dremmel / proxon multi-tool method is almost inadequate. It is t-e-d-i-o-u-s
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
#74
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Before you go any farther, post some pics.
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#75
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Work in progress
Well bear in mind it is a work in progress - I'll be smoothing out the bottom parts once they are a tad deeper...
...that sounds a bit strange... ...anyway here's before
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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