Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:23 AM
Zacharias's Avatar
Not so amused
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: West Quebec
Posts: 4,025
Glad it's going to be you and not me, if you need to ever replace the vac shutoff valve ... though I would kill for easier access to the fuse box.

__________________


Mac
2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:25 AM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,291
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Glad it's going to be you and not me, if you need to ever replace the vac shutoff valve ... though I would kill for easier access to the fuse box.
I'm confused, what about this setup makes the shutoff valve harder to replace? Or are you suggesting that the SD booster might act as a reservoir?
__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:37 AM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,416
FYI

Your cracked rubber bulkhead drain hoses are.

Hose, Left
MB# 1238320594

Hose, Right
MB# 1238320694

.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 11-05-2013, 11:40 AM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,291
Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Your cracked rubber bulkhead drain hoses are.

Hose, Left
MB# 1238320594

Hose, Right
MB# 1238320694

.
Thanks. They are in the trunk, waiting to be installed.
__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 11-05-2013, 08:45 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: SoCal
Posts: 661
What did you do to the brake lines? How did you fit the w123 brake lines to the w126 MC?
__________________
'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles
'14 GLK 350 60000 miles
Reply With Quote
  #21  
Old 11-05-2013, 09:02 PM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,416
Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by my123ca View Post
What did you do to the brake lines? How did you fit the w123 brake lines to the w126 MC?
The fittings are identical.

The positioning simply requires some tweaking, there is plenty of extra slack in the lines.

.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 04-10-2014, 02:48 AM
BenzTurbo's Avatar
300cd
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 566
I know this is an old post but I just came across this and I'm about to upgrade my brakes. I got the some 1st gen w126 calipers and rotors. My rear brakes have new rotors and freshly rebuilt calipers. I always liked that w126's have a softer brake pedal (more assist) and there is a larger volume of vacuum if you have to pump the brakes on a slick road without the pedal getting hard. But I installed a new master cylinder a year ago and don't really want to just ditch it. Can I use my w123 master cylinder on the w126 booster?
__________________
83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 04-10-2014, 01:34 PM
He/Him
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
Posts: 13,291
Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzTurbo View Post
I know this is an old post but I just came across this and I'm about to upgrade my brakes. I got the some 1st gen w126 calipers and rotors. My rear brakes have new rotors and freshly rebuilt calipers. I always liked that w126's have a softer brake pedal (more assist) and there is a larger volume of vacuum if you have to pump the brakes on a slick road without the pedal getting hard. But I installed a new master cylinder a year ago and don't really want to just ditch it. Can I use my w123 master cylinder on the w126 booster?
I'll say probably. I didn't bother with that question as I needed a new MC anyway as I was converting to DOT 5. It looks like the mounting is the same, but I don't know how far the piston travels/sticks out/etc.
__________________
Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 04-10-2014, 01:37 PM
BenzTurbo's Avatar
300cd
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 566
Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
I'll say probably. I didn't bother with that question as I needed a new MC anyway as I was converting to DOT 5. It looks like the mounting is the same, but I don't know how far the piston travels/sticks out/etc.
That's what I'm concerned about. I may just compare them at the yard but was hoping someone may know the difference.
__________________
83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 04-10-2014, 04:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 3,115
Having fooled with boosters on different cars, I'll speculate. Most 60's U.S. cars had a thick booster like the 300SD. Those have an internal rubber bellows that seals the vacuum. I put a 99 Breeze booster on my 65 Dart and it looks like the 300SD one. I recall it has the internal bellows. Some later boosters like the 300D and those on my Chrysler minivans are flat, pancake type. They don't have the bellows (I think) and seal the vacuum w/ the MC body. The advantage is they are short, disadvantage is that brake fluid leaks past the piston get sucked into the booster (both my 300D's "as found"), plus you must insure the MC seating gasket seals tight.

Re DOT 5 (silicone) fluid, I converted all my cars to that, except 2 newer ones w/ ABS. If you research enough, you will find that the warnings about mixing with glycol fluids (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) is unfounded and probably something the lawyers make them put on the labels. Anyway, I converted all mine when rebuilding the system and always blew out the lines, then ethanol, then blow good again and let sit. I didn't want any drops of old, rusty glycol to cause problems. I recently took the MC out of one car I converted to DOT 5 15 years ago and it was pristine inside. I only removed it because converting from a single pot (1965 car) to a dual reservoir MC. I had ample problems with rusty glycol in the past, especially when I lived in humid Georgia, and none since changing to DOT 5. In my remaining glycol cars I try to flush the brake fluid every 2 years, and it still comes out a bit rusty.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 04-11-2014, 01:45 AM
BenzTurbo's Avatar
300cd
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 566
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Having fooled with boosters on different cars, I'll speculate. Most 60's U.S. cars had a thick booster like the 300SD. Those have an internal rubber bellows that seals the vacuum. I put a 99 Breeze booster on my 65 Dart and it looks like the 300SD one. I recall it has the internal bellows. Some later boosters like the 300D and those on my Chrysler minivans are flat, pancake type. They don't have the bellows (I think) and seal the vacuum w/ the MC body. The advantage is they are short, disadvantage is that brake fluid leaks past the piston get sucked into the booster (both my 300D's "as found"), plus you must insure the MC seating gasket seals tight.

Re DOT 5 (silicone) fluid, I converted all my cars to that, except 2 newer ones w/ ABS. If you research enough, you will find that the warnings about mixing with glycol fluids (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) is unfounded and probably something the lawyers make them put on the labels. Anyway, I converted all mine when rebuilding the system and always blew out the lines, then ethanol, then blow good again and let sit. I didn't want any drops of old, rusty glycol to cause problems. I recently took the MC out of one car I converted to DOT 5 15 years ago and it was pristine inside. I only removed it because converting from a single pot (1965 car) to a dual reservoir MC. I had ample problems with rusty glycol in the past, especially when I lived in humid Georgia, and none since changing to DOT 5. In my remaining glycol cars I try to flush the brake fluid every 2 years, and it still comes out a bit rusty.
My factory stubby one is working fine for what it is. When I shut the car off, I can go back 30 minutes after and there is still lots of vac left in it. I just love the easy brake pedal feel like a lot of trucks. I always thought my w126 felt similar to our yukon with hydroboost. I'm just curious if the piston length that comes out of the master cylinder for my w123 will fit in the bigger w126 booster?
__________________
83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 04-12-2014, 03:45 AM
BenzTurbo's Avatar
300cd
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 566
just finished my w126 1st gen front brake conversion. i went and got a w126 brake booster from an 84 300sd and i love the way it feels!!! no effort to bring the car to a halt! there was a 91 300sel at the pnp as well. i was going to get the booster off that but wasn't sure what the deal was with it. it looked like 2 of the standard w123 boosters stuck together. i see that style on many w124's too. anyone know what is up with that style? and also, my original w123 master cylinder worked perfectly so one could add the larger booster too any w123 without issues. the 2 front brake lines were very easy to reach but the rear one was a bit of a hassle. no big deal though. totally worth it!
__________________
83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 04-12-2014, 11:10 AM
disqo's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: High Point, NC
Posts: 581
Bill,
Why did you not do the DOT 5 switch on the ABS cars? Is it possible to flush out the ABS pump?
__________________
1985 Euro 300TD Turbo
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 04-12-2014, 01:02 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Out in the Boonies of Hot, Dry, Dusty, Windy Nevada
Posts: 9,673
Any one doing the W126 Booster up grade to their W123, the W126 Booster is very expensive if you buy it new compared to the w123.

Looking up the part numbers here on pelican.

84 300SD Booster ATE brand 002-430-68-30 $732.75

84 300D Booster TRW brand 002-430-45-30 $289.00


Better start hitting the yards while they are still available. think they are $24 plus tax etc... and you pull them.


Charlie
__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 04-12-2014, 05:40 PM
BenzTurbo's Avatar
300cd
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 566
Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Any one doing the W126 Booster up grade to their W123, the W126 Booster is very expensive if you buy it new compared to the w123.

Looking up the part numbers here on pelican.

84 300SD Booster ATE brand 002-430-68-30 $732.75

84 300D Booster TRW brand 002-430-45-30 $289.00


Better start hitting the yards while they are still available. think they are $24 plus tax etc... and you pull them.


Charlie
Any idea why the w126 brake booster is so much more expensive? I got mine at the pick n pull for $30 out the door. It's an ate brand too. How do you feel about the "upgrade"?

__________________
83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:33 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page