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  #16  
Old 11-05-2013, 12:23 PM
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Glad it's going to be you and not me, if you need to ever replace the vac shutoff valve ... though I would kill for easier access to the fuse box.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

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  #17  
Old 11-05-2013, 12:25 PM
A guy who likes to Benz
 
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Location: DC Metro/Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Glad it's going to be you and not me, if you need to ever replace the vac shutoff valve ... though I would kill for easier access to the fuse box.
I'm confused, what about this setup makes the shutoff valve harder to replace? Or are you suggesting that the SD booster might act as a reservoir?
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I recondition w123/w126/w124 steering boxes! (post #7)



1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 111k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #18  
Old 11-05-2013, 12:37 PM
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Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
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FYI

Your cracked rubber bulkhead drain hoses are.

Hose, Left
MB# 1238320594

Hose, Right
MB# 1238320694

.
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Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Prototype Vehicle build.
Prototype Fleet Durability
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Technical Quality Auditor.
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1973 300D
1973 309D - stolen
1978 280SE
1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
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  #19  
Old 11-05-2013, 12:40 PM
A guy who likes to Benz
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: DC Metro/Maryland
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Your cracked rubber bulkhead drain hoses are.

Hose, Left
MB# 1238320594

Hose, Right
MB# 1238320694

.
Thanks. They are in the trunk, waiting to be installed.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124 steering boxes! (post #7)



1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 111k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #20  
Old 11-05-2013, 09:45 PM
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What did you do to the brake lines? How did you fit the w123 brake lines to the w126 MC?
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  #21  
Old 11-05-2013, 10:02 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by my123ca View Post
What did you do to the brake lines? How did you fit the w123 brake lines to the w126 MC?
The fittings are identical.

The positioning simply requires some tweaking, there is plenty of extra slack in the lines.

.
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asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Prototype Vehicle build.
Prototype Fleet Durability
Prototype vehicle instrumentation.
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1973 300D
1973 309D - stolen
1978 280SE
1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
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  #22  
Old 04-10-2014, 03:48 AM
BenzTurbo's Avatar
300cd
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Dallas, Tx
Posts: 559
I know this is an old post but I just came across this and I'm about to upgrade my brakes. I got the some 1st gen w126 calipers and rotors. My rear brakes have new rotors and freshly rebuilt calipers. I always liked that w126's have a softer brake pedal (more assist) and there is a larger volume of vacuum if you have to pump the brakes on a slick road without the pedal getting hard. But I installed a new master cylinder a year ago and don't really want to just ditch it. Can I use my w123 master cylinder on the w126 booster?
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83 300CD- sanden, dual p/f condensers, 160a alternator, ect
91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
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  #23  
Old 04-10-2014, 02:34 PM
A guy who likes to Benz
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzTurbo View Post
I know this is an old post but I just came across this and I'm about to upgrade my brakes. I got the some 1st gen w126 calipers and rotors. My rear brakes have new rotors and freshly rebuilt calipers. I always liked that w126's have a softer brake pedal (more assist) and there is a larger volume of vacuum if you have to pump the brakes on a slick road without the pedal getting hard. But I installed a new master cylinder a year ago and don't really want to just ditch it. Can I use my w123 master cylinder on the w126 booster?
I'll say probably. I didn't bother with that question as I needed a new MC anyway as I was converting to DOT 5. It looks like the mounting is the same, but I don't know how far the piston travels/sticks out/etc.
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I recondition w123/w126/w124 steering boxes! (post #7)



1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 111k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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  #24  
Old 04-10-2014, 02:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martureo View Post
I'll say probably. I didn't bother with that question as I needed a new MC anyway as I was converting to DOT 5. It looks like the mounting is the same, but I don't know how far the piston travels/sticks out/etc.
That's what I'm concerned about. I may just compare them at the yard but was hoping someone may know the difference.
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91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
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  #25  
Old 04-10-2014, 05:04 PM
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Location: Sacramento, CA
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Having fooled with boosters on different cars, I'll speculate. Most 60's U.S. cars had a thick booster like the 300SD. Those have an internal rubber bellows that seals the vacuum. I put a 99 Breeze booster on my 65 Dart and it looks like the 300SD one. I recall it has the internal bellows. Some later boosters like the 300D and those on my Chrysler minivans are flat, pancake type. They don't have the bellows (I think) and seal the vacuum w/ the MC body. The advantage is they are short, disadvantage is that brake fluid leaks past the piston get sucked into the booster (both my 300D's "as found"), plus you must insure the MC seating gasket seals tight.

Re DOT 5 (silicone) fluid, I converted all my cars to that, except 2 newer ones w/ ABS. If you research enough, you will find that the warnings about mixing with glycol fluids (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) is unfounded and probably something the lawyers make them put on the labels. Anyway, I converted all mine when rebuilding the system and always blew out the lines, then ethanol, then blow good again and let sit. I didn't want any drops of old, rusty glycol to cause problems. I recently took the MC out of one car I converted to DOT 5 15 years ago and it was pristine inside. I only removed it because converting from a single pot (1965 car) to a dual reservoir MC. I had ample problems with rusty glycol in the past, especially when I lived in humid Georgia, and none since changing to DOT 5. In my remaining glycol cars I try to flush the brake fluid every 2 years, and it still comes out a bit rusty.
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  #26  
Old 04-11-2014, 02:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
Having fooled with boosters on different cars, I'll speculate. Most 60's U.S. cars had a thick booster like the 300SD. Those have an internal rubber bellows that seals the vacuum. I put a 99 Breeze booster on my 65 Dart and it looks like the 300SD one. I recall it has the internal bellows. Some later boosters like the 300D and those on my Chrysler minivans are flat, pancake type. They don't have the bellows (I think) and seal the vacuum w/ the MC body. The advantage is they are short, disadvantage is that brake fluid leaks past the piston get sucked into the booster (both my 300D's "as found"), plus you must insure the MC seating gasket seals tight.

Re DOT 5 (silicone) fluid, I converted all my cars to that, except 2 newer ones w/ ABS. If you research enough, you will find that the warnings about mixing with glycol fluids (DOT 3, 4, 5.1) is unfounded and probably something the lawyers make them put on the labels. Anyway, I converted all mine when rebuilding the system and always blew out the lines, then ethanol, then blow good again and let sit. I didn't want any drops of old, rusty glycol to cause problems. I recently took the MC out of one car I converted to DOT 5 15 years ago and it was pristine inside. I only removed it because converting from a single pot (1965 car) to a dual reservoir MC. I had ample problems with rusty glycol in the past, especially when I lived in humid Georgia, and none since changing to DOT 5. In my remaining glycol cars I try to flush the brake fluid every 2 years, and it still comes out a bit rusty.
My factory stubby one is working fine for what it is. When I shut the car off, I can go back 30 minutes after and there is still lots of vac left in it. I just love the easy brake pedal feel like a lot of trucks. I always thought my w126 felt similar to our yukon with hydroboost. I'm just curious if the piston length that comes out of the master cylinder for my w123 will fit in the bigger w126 booster?
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91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
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  #27  
Old 04-12-2014, 04:45 AM
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just finished my w126 1st gen front brake conversion. i went and got a w126 brake booster from an 84 300sd and i love the way it feels!!! no effort to bring the car to a halt! there was a 91 300sel at the pnp as well. i was going to get the booster off that but wasn't sure what the deal was with it. it looked like 2 of the standard w123 boosters stuck together. i see that style on many w124's too. anyone know what is up with that style? and also, my original w123 master cylinder worked perfectly so one could add the larger booster too any w123 without issues. the 2 front brake lines were very easy to reach but the rear one was a bit of a hassle. no big deal though. totally worth it!
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91 300TD- 722.6, #22 head, 3.5L IP, w140 manifolds, ect
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  #28  
Old 04-12-2014, 12:10 PM
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Bill,
Why did you not do the DOT 5 switch on the ABS cars? Is it possible to flush out the ABS pump?
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  #29  
Old 04-12-2014, 02:02 PM
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Any one doing the W126 Booster up grade to their W123, the W126 Booster is very expensive if you buy it new compared to the w123.

Looking up the part numbers here on pelican.

84 300SD Booster ATE brand 002-430-68-30 $732.75

84 300D Booster TRW brand 002-430-45-30 $289.00


Better start hitting the yards while they are still available. think they are $24 plus tax etc... and you pull them.


Charlie
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  #30  
Old 04-12-2014, 06:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
Any one doing the W126 Booster up grade to their W123, the W126 Booster is very expensive if you buy it new compared to the w123.

Looking up the part numbers here on pelican.

84 300SD Booster ATE brand 002-430-68-30 $732.75

84 300D Booster TRW brand 002-430-45-30 $289.00


Better start hitting the yards while they are still available. think they are $24 plus tax etc... and you pull them.


Charlie
Any idea why the w126 brake booster is so much more expensive? I got mine at the pick n pull for $30 out the door. It's an ate brand too. How do you feel about the "upgrade"?
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