Radiator Drain Plug Broken Off...Drain via Lower Hose? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

whunter · #16 10-28-2013, 07:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

Why is that necessary? Why can't I fill entire system from expansion tank, like I did on 95 I just sold?

You can, but it is the hard way = you trap more air in the system, and require more effort/time burping.

Back filling through the engine is easier/faster...

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shertex · #17 10-29-2013, 08:38 AM

What is the large hose in the very bottom corner that goes off the side and is connected to metal? Would disconnecting that also drain the system? It seems easier to access.

vstech · #18 10-29-2013, 11:25 AM

that's likely the expansion tank hose. it would also be fine to drain the radiator that way.

Skid Row Joe · #19 10-29-2013, 03:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

that's likely the expansion tank hose. it would also be fine to drain the radiator that way.

Yup....

Skid Row Joe · #20 10-29-2013, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shertex

What is the large hose in the very bottom corner that goes off the side and is connected to metal? Would disconnecting that also drain the system? It seems easier to access.

Sounds like the turbo intercooler tubing.

W/O pictures, I'm going from memory since my Brother in Omaha, Nebraska, now owns my '99 E300TD.

aieeegrunt · #21 10-29-2013, 07:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

IMO: The drain plug is a half hour waste of time, when you can drain the system in seconds by removing the lower hose.

When the repair is done:
Disconnect the upper hose from the radiator, use it to reverse fill = coolant in through the engine block and out the upper radiator fitting.

There will still be minor burping in the first thirty miles of driving, typically between one pint - quart.

.

Thanks very much, you just saved me a lot of work. I figured I'd have to somehow raise the nose of the car up and other shenanigans, as several threads on this board have led me to believe.

So what I need to do is:

(1) position some sort of drain tray underneath
(2) Remove lower hose by loosening off jubilee clips at top and bottom
(3) Try to dodge resultant deluge of coolant
(4) Install heater in lower hose (cutting a piece out?)
(5) replace lower hose
(6) remove upper hose from radiator
(7) pour replacement coolant in this hose, not in the radiator cap like I do to top it up. It looks like this hose goes to the thermostat, but I believe these thermos have a bypass so it'll flow cold.

I should mention that my particular car doesn't have an overflow tank, just a little hose that goes down the side of the rad. At some point I'll deal with this, but I've got an oil change, new glow plugs to install and a small crack in the exhaust to deal with before the Cold Dead Hand of a Canadian Winter closes around my throat.

(8) repurpose the magnetic block heater that is now serving as a stop gap till I get the rad hose heater installed since the block heater is dead.

You are located in Detroit I believe. Pity I no longer live in Windsor, as I totally owe you a drink! I think I can pull this off without having to lift the car, which is a good thing because I only have gravel at my place. I was crawling around under it earlier looking for the reason my car suddenly got louder.

I also discovered that my transmission mount seems to be missing a bolt!

whunter · #22 10-29-2013, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aieeegrunt

Thanks very much, you just saved me a lot of work. I figured I'd have to somehow raise the nose of the car up and other shenanigans, as several threads on this board have led me to believe.

So what I need to do is:

(1) position some sort of drain tray underneath
(2) Remove lower hose by loosening off jubilee clips at top and bottom
(3) Try to dodge resultant deluge of coolant
(4) Install heater in lower hose (cutting a piece out?)
(5) replace lower hose
(6) remove upper hose from radiator
(7) pour replacement coolant in this hose, not in the radiator cap like I do to top it up. It looks like this hose goes to the thermostat, but I believe these thermos have a bypass so it'll flow cold.

I should mention that my particular car doesn't have an overflow tank, just a little hose that goes down the side of the rad. At some point I'll deal with this, but I've got an oil change, new glow plugs to install and a small crack in the exhaust to deal with before the Cold Dead Hand of a Canadian Winter closes around my throat.

(8) re-purpose the magnetic block heater that is now serving as a stop gap till I get the rad hose heater installed since the block heater is dead.

You are located in Detroit I believe. Pity I no longer live in Windsor, as I totally owe you a drink! I think I can pull this off without having to lift the car, which is a good thing because I only have gravel at my place. I was crawling around under it earlier looking for the reason my car suddenly got louder.

I also discovered that my transmission mount seems to be missing a bolt!

The procedure is correct.

Your particular 1978 300D doesn't have an overflow tank, and is not designed to have or need one.

A cracked exhaust is welding or have a Muffler shop make a replacement system, just had a W123 300D system made for $350 USD from turbo - bumper.

FYI: If you have a factory block heater already installed = it is incredibly simple to unscrew the dead unit, and screw in the new unit.

The heater is NOT difficult, your factory blank plug has been replaced with the correct adapter and heater...

MB# Q6200009

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vstech · #23 10-29-2013, 09:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aieeegrunt

Thanks very much, you just saved me a lot of work. I figured I'd have to somehow raise the nose of the car up and other shenanigans, as several threads on this board have led me to believe.

So what I need to do is:

(1) position some sort of drain tray underneath
(2) Remove lower hose by loosening off jubilee clips at top and bottom
(3) Try to dodge resultant deluge of coolant
(4) Install heater in lower hose (cutting a piece out?)
(5) replace lower hose
(6) remove upper hose from radiator
(7) pour replacement coolant in this hose, not in the radiator cap like I do to top it up. It looks like this hose goes to the thermostat, but I believe these thermos have a bypass so it'll flow cold.

I should mention that my particular car doesn't have an overflow tank, just a little hose that goes down the side of the rad. At some point I'll deal with this, but I've got an oil change, new glow plugs to install and a small crack in the exhaust to deal with before the Cold Dead Hand of a Canadian Winter closes around my throat.

(8) repurpose the magnetic block heater that is now serving as a stop gap till I get the rad hose heater installed since the block heater is dead.

You are located in Detroit I believe. Pity I no longer live in Windsor, as I totally owe you a drink! I think I can pull this off without having to lift the car, which is a good thing because I only have gravel at my place. I was crawling around under it earlier looking for the reason my car suddenly got louder.

I also discovered that my transmission mount seems to be missing a bolt!

it sounds like Whunter knows your car!
however, keep this in mind about a 78 300D... there is a vent on the thermostat housing... after you have the radiator full, and you've convinced yourself you have all the air out... loosen that screw and verify coolant exits... not air. get All THE AIR OUT!!! it's a TOTAL ROYAL PAIN to bleed the head on the 78...
I strongly recommend parking the car nose uphill, and or driving up on ramps to get the front end high up in the air...

I've scrapped 3 78's because the owner filled the radiator, and drove off... 50 miles later they needed a new engine...

your call...

shertex · #24 10-29-2013, 09:54 PM

BTW tried without success to do the hot screwdriver trick. What worked instead was putting epoxy on the tip of an awl, jamming in into the plug, waiting two hours, then easily unscrewing it.