Decarbonization Options - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

reinventthewheel · #1 10-30-2013, 06:05 PM

Looking for a chemical option to soak the upper cylinders to remove carbon.

MMO is not enough. Reaming the glow plug chambers is not enough. Italian tune-ups are not enough.
Need something that will get in every nook and cranny and break down the carbon.

I heard there was a decarbonization made by Mobil and put out by GM that was fantastic for this purpose but I don't think it's made anymore.

What about Seafoam?

Zulfiqar · #2 10-30-2013, 06:11 PM

chrysler dealers sell a top end cleaner - its very potent, you also would need to drain the oil really thorougly to ensure its not trapped anywhere in the engine or the oil cooler.

Kreen also make a top end cleaner which is advertised only to be used professionally. Its the real mustard when it comes to cleaning carbon.

reinventthewheel · #3 10-30-2013, 06:33 PM

I've used the Kreen and didn't find it particularly great, but I didn't use it as a soak.
What is your experience with that product?

Do you know the name of the chrysler one? Is that a soak or?

ichris93 · #4 10-30-2013, 07:01 PM

Is this a good idea? Some carbon seals!

Diesel911 · #5 10-30-2013, 08:07 PM

If the Engine was a New and you drove it a month or so it would have Carbon in it. It is the nature of the Beast.

If every thing is functioning normally the Carbon builds up to a point and stays that way until some abnormal conditions causes more of a build up.
And, if you have an abnormal condition you should fix that.

Other Members who have tried it claim that Water Injection cleans stuff out. I have no personal experience with that so you would have to look up some threads on that.

Freeing up stuck Piston Rings might be different than cleaning out the Carbon from the Combustion Chamber.

rscurtis · #6 10-30-2013, 08:32 PM

You are correct, the carbon is the symptom, not the problem. A properly running diesel engine should have no carbon deposits at all- just a coating that looks like flat black paint.

cooljjay · #7 10-30-2013, 08:50 PM

Get the car running to proper condition, requires the fuel system to be properly tuned, injection pump timing, new filters, new injectors, all glow plugs operating correctly, all air leaks fixed. Then start the valve adjustments, adjust run the car hard for a few hundred miles, adjust again....and continuing to adjust the valves to they hold clearance....then oil change time, keep changing the oil and driving the car hard....you have to get the carbon out....only way is by burning it and oil changes....these cars are so gunked up from not having regular changes it is amazing.....there is actually an oil pressure relief valve in the oil filter housing, when the filter clogs it opens and allows the oil unfiltered back into the engine....I changed my oil maybe 500 miles ago....I pulled the oil filter and there are carbon particles big enough to see with the eye stuck all over the filter....

sixto · #8 10-30-2013, 10:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lacolocho

Do you know the name of the chrysler one? Is that a soak or?

This is FYI, not a recommendation -

http://www.neons.org/howtos/MoparCleaner.shtml

Quote:

From : Greg at Chrysler

Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner/Conditioner is really good for removing carbon deposits, but the directions on the can are not so useful. The following directions outline the way that professional mechanics have been using the cleaner for years -- they were finally published in TSB 18-31-97 for 1996-98 Jeep 4.0 Liter misfire conditions:

decarbonizing Procedure

1. Operate the vehicle until the vehicle reaches operating temperature.
2. Remove the air tube from the throttle body.
3. With the engine at an idle, spray the entire contents of Mopar Combustion Cleaner, p/n 04318001, directly into the throttle body. Allow the vehicle to load up with the cleaner to the point of almost stalling out.
4. Shut the engine OFF after the entire can is ingested.
5. With the hood closed and the vehicle parked inside the garage, allow the vehicle to soak for two to three hours. This will ensure that the engine will maintain its temperature and will allow proper solvent penetration.
6. Drive the vehicle on a highway/freeway that will allow the vehicle to be driven safely at the posted speed limit. Upon entering the highway/freeway, accelerate hard to the posted speed limit and maintain speed. Slow down and then perform 5 to 10 Wide Open Throttle (WOT) upshifts. Continue driving at the maximum speed limit for 1-2 miles (if conditions allow).

Greg Smith

Sixto
87 300D

Diesel911 · #9 10-30-2013, 10:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

This is FYI, not a recommendation -

http://www.neons.org/howtos/MoparCleaner.shtml

Sixto
87 300D

"Remove the air tube from the throttle body."
The instructions are for a gasoline Engine!!!

Squirting this stuff into the intake of a running Diesel Engine would likely cause the Engine to run away if not damage similar to using starting Fluid.

GregMN · #10 10-30-2013, 11:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

... Water Injection cleans stuff out...

Yup.

sixto · #11 10-31-2013, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

"Remove the air tube from the throttle body."
The instructions are for a gasoline Engine!!!

Squirting this stuff into the intake of a running Diesel Engine would likely cause the Engine to run away if not damage similar to using starting Fluid.

Can you use the stop lever to choke IP fuel while spraying?

Sixto
87 300D

Mölyapina · #12 10-31-2013, 12:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Diesel911

"Remove the air tube from the throttle body."
The instructions are for a gasoline Engine!!!

Squirting this stuff into the intake of a running Diesel Engine would likely cause the Engine to run away if not damage similar to using starting Fluid.

Well, not run away in the sense that you can control the fuel supply... unless you squirt in way too much way too fast.

DeliveryValve · #13 10-31-2013, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lacolocho

Looking for a chemical option to soak the upper cylinders to remove carbon.

MMO is not enough. Reaming the glow plug chambers is not enough. Italian tune-ups are not enough.
Need something that will get in every nook and cranny and break down the carbon.

...

With the injectors out, for a chemical solution, you can dump Berryman B12 in the cylinders and let it soak for a day or so. It does a good job in removing carbon.
After soaking, make sure to change your oil and not use it as a fuel supplement with diesel.

But as noted above, water injection is a very effective way to remove carbon.

1project2many · #14 10-31-2013, 07:39 AM

You could spray that Chrysler cleaner in the intake if it's similar to the old GM Top Engine Cleaner (the new stuff is junk). It's not flammable but it contains some fairly strong acids. GM always recommended changing oil after an overnight soak and Caddy had released service bulletins warning against bearing damage if contaminated engine oil was used instead of drained. Be warned, that product created a vast amount of obnoxious smoke when the engine was restarted. It's enough so a traffic cop walked into the shop one day to make sure we weren't on fire.

I usually pull the injectors and the glow plugs to introduce carbon cleaner into the prechambers directly. That also allows cleaning the tips of the injectors and the glow plugs. Then I crank the engine and blow excess chemical out. I have small adapters made from old injectors which allows me to connect hoses to blow everything below the car. Much smarter and safer than introducing a potentially flammable chemical into the intake of an engine that has no means to limit intake air supply.

If you look around, several gun owner forums have discussions about finding a replacement for some of the carbon (soot) removing cleaners that's less expensive. In some cases, review of MSDS and some trial and error leads to the old GM TEC. So now that GM TEC is discontinued I've been using Hoppe's #9 (not flammable, doesn't like to fire) in a mix with a small amount of K-100 fuel treatment (flammable, don't add too much) to aid in restarting the car afterward. It works although not as well as the old GM stuff.

I'm going to order a can of the Chrysler cleaner and see if it's the same as the old GM cleaner.

Methanol injection is also effective for removing carbon. I was going to set it up on the old Mercedes but didn't have the opportunity.

vstech · #15 10-31-2013, 08:12 AM

on a particularly sooty prechamber vehicle... I soak PB Blaster into the PC's let it soak a day, and soak it again, then spray Brake cleaner in, then spin the motor, and change the oil... sparkley...