How to determine true mileage? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

GregMN · #16 11-03-2013, 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by t walgamuth

The only thing that seems to wear more on the coupe is the window lift mechanisms.

And that is because the frameless window seals are $600 / side.
So when they go bad, people do not replace them.
At highway speeds they are noisy and people try to close the the already closed window.
There is no lift motor cut off switch to sense that the window is all ready up all the way.
So the motor will end up grinding the top 2 teeth off the lift arm gear.

Skid Row Joe · #17 11-03-2013, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danman

I'm not looking to purchase but I found this ad and am intrigued. Not many pictures which is iffy, but led me to the question- are there certain places to look for signs of wear that someone could reasonably determine mileage to say the nearest 100,000 miles?

1984 Mercedes Benz 300cd Coupe

Maybe, maybe not. My 16-year old 300SD with 305K, didn't look a mile over 150K, when I sold it.

However, the underside, looked like it had 1,000,000 miles on it - since they were all highway miles!

I would be the first to point out that my SD was GARAGED it's entire life under my care, and carported/garaged under the previos owner's care - so, that counts a lot toward remaining a non-rusted car, with superior paint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danman

Yea, pictures and details are sparse which raises a lot of questions. My 84 has 300k miles and only one small rust spot behind the wheel under the trunk. So around here, if the cars been in OK or Texas it's whole life, vehicles can have very little rust with high miles.

Carfax and compression check would be the most reliable I suppose. What parts exactly are harder to find for a coupe?

RE: 'rust '- that would be; NONE, in the case of my Texas located 16 year old SD w/305K miles sold in '99.

Quote:

Originally Posted by GregMN

Forget about the car. You can check that out when/if you go see it.

Google the phone number.

You will find that the seller is not an owner. They are a flipper. They are selling MB's in OK and boats in Oxnard, CA.

Huh? Flipping cars/trucks?

So, shertex's cars for instance, are less, just because he flips 'em for a profit....? Wrong.

The price is certainly right on the car, and worth checking out.

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottmcphee

You can find age of car by cutting any unibody component in half and count the rings. One per year.

THX! I got a chuckle out of that one! Ha!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danman

I had a suspicion! I've seen quite a few ads from Haskell OK, mostly diesel trucks.

I wouldn't assume there's anything wrong with that car, just because.......? WHEN you go see the car, ask to see the records on the car, get the VIN and review what service records if any exist at the National network of MB dealers. Not a problem to check out the car at all. -As far as the pedal wear as an indicator of mileage? Not reliable, since there is vast difference of how the pedal rubber wears depending on how the car was driven, and/or how the driver(s) braked on the pedal. Too many variable to draw any conclusions based on pedal wear/non-wear...

Skid Row Joe · #18 11-03-2013, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil_F_NM

All the parts that wear on the chassis can be replaced in a high mileage car. The real test is to do a compression test on the engine. If it has good compression, it could have over a million miles on the chassis and new suspension components and could last for a long time.

Get it up on the road and test accelleration and how it drives. The steering should be confident feeling and not loose. These steering boxes can deform holes in the mount over time.

Also check for rust. lift up floor mats, get under the car and look under the jackpoints and where the rear subframe meets the body. Check inside the wheel wells dilligently. The rear sway bar mount in the wheel wells can rot easily.

Check under the battery tray for rust. Also the hood mounting points and the pockets under the hood by the corner.

Check the sunroof (if it has one) for function and also check under the pillars at the rear of the car in the trunk. Lift up the trunk mat and check for rust. Also check under the spare tire. If the car has a first aid kit, lift it up and out to access under the rear window where you'll be able to feel around for corrosion.

Looks like a nice car from the photo.

Phil Forrest

Unless a car of that vintage has been kept garaged, and is located in the south/Southwest for most it's life, I would expect rust on it too. The miles are certainly right for a nice, pampered, low mileage car of that vintage - that's a plus I would think. It might be a real find!

97 SL320 · #19 11-04-2013, 05:21 PM

Car flippers buy low and sell high, they have to find the car in the first place so why not be the person that finds the car first and eliminate the middle man?

I have an issue with car flippers that post in the By Owner section of any media whom don't state up front that they buy and sell cars on the side. That kind of behavior is unethical. This ranks up there with having a high mileage car, changing the odometer then selling true mileage unknown / not actual mileage. Or having a car with a bad transmission and cutting the starter wire then stating car won't start. Or any number of " I know things about this car but I'm not telling you / making it appear that it is a simple fix. "

I have no issue with someone that states up front that they get cars, fix them up and sell. With such a statement, they are likely not intent on hiding much.

A serial car flipper will know little ( or care ) about the cars history, they will wash it off and turn it over. Nor will they know much about the cars condition as they would have barely driven it.

eatont9999 · #20 11-05-2013, 04:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danman

I'm not looking to purchase but I found this ad and am intrigued. Not many pictures which is iffy, but led me to the question- are there certain places to look for signs of wear that someone could reasonably determine mileage to say the nearest 100,000 miles?

1984 Mercedes Benz 300cd Coupe

Wear on the steering wheel is a good indicator. My grey car did not have the correct odometer in it when I bought it but I can figure it has upwards and maybe more than 400K on it because the steering wheel is worn smooth. The champagne SD has the correct odometer in it and it is now at 241K and the steering wheel has very little wear on it.