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  #16  
Old 11-03-2013, 05:08 PM
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GP test results

Just tested the glowplugs. Wasn't too happy with the results, heh.

Started by removing all 4 from the engine...from rear to front, numbers 4 and 3 didn't have that much carbon buildup on them, but #2 and #1 did. I thought "oh there's the problem! #1 and #2 are bum!" Well...not quite. Exactly the opposite, really.

I couldn't get to my battery charger, so I just tested them in the car off the car battery. To verify the relay worked, I took a spare large-thread plug I had laying around for my car and hooked it right up to the wire from the relay. Turn the key ...yay! Glows beautifully. So, relay works (woohoo!). To establish a ground to the plug, I just nestled it in the ground frame on the back of the engine. I then took all 4 and tested them this way. To be sure I had a good ground, I tested each three different times and re-positioned in the frame hole if they didn't glow the first time.

The results....the two caked with carbon are good. The two for the front of the engine...uh oh. Explains a bit of the hard starting, heh.

Also, I took pictures this time! Now I just have to figure out how to get them on here in a decent enough resolution...so pics to come later. The majority of them are of underneath the car, where the leaking is coming from.

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  #17  
Old 11-03-2013, 05:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugist View Post
...I did fail to mention that I am getting some leaking from underneath the IP... it looks like oil but to the touch it's way too thin to be oil. A coolant/oil mix, perhaps?...
Oil and water don't mix. Oil and diesel do mix. Clean the mess up and look for fuel leaks.

I second the suggestion to get the cooling system pressure tested at a reliable shop. The necessary tools will cost at least as much as having it done once, and an experienced tech is more likely to find the problem quickly.
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  #18  
Old 11-04-2013, 12:08 AM
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FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugist View Post
Just tested the glowplugs. Wasn't too happy with the results, heh.

Started by removing all 4 from the engine...from rear to front, numbers 4 and 3 didn't have that much carbon buildup on them, but #2 and #1 did. I thought "oh there's the problem! #1 and #2 are bum!" Well...not quite. Exactly the opposite, really.

I couldn't get to my battery charger, so I just tested them in the car off the car battery. To verify the relay worked, I took a spare large-thread plug I had laying around for my car and hooked it right up to the wire from the relay. Turn the key ...yay! Glows beautifully. So, relay works (woohoo!). To establish a ground to the plug, I just nestled it in the ground frame on the back of the engine. I then took all 4 and tested them this way. To be sure I had a good ground, I tested each three different times and re-positioned in the frame hole if they didn't glow the first time.

The results....the two caked with carbon are good. The two for the front of the engine...uh oh. Explains a bit of the hard starting, heh.

Also, I took pictures this time! Now I just have to figure out how to get them on here in a decent enough resolution...so pics to come later. The majority of them are of underneath the car, where the leaking is coming from.
Send the RAW pictures to me for posting on this thread.


.
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:11 AM
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Update!

Ordered and installed new Bosch glowplugs; reamed out the holes while I was at it and figured I'd do a compression test too. Got my lovely lady out to help me; she cranked the engine while I read the gauge. All 4 cylinders capped on about the 6th, 7th stroke at around 400 PSI, give or take a bit. Installed the new glowplugs with copper antiseize on the threads. The real test will be when she starts it tomorrow morning. The test was done with the engine warm, through the GP holes (obviously). I made sure to check each new gp before I installed them.

Oh, and the leaking? Fuel. From the IP where the hardline to injector #1 is. Is there a seal underneath that hex or something?
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  #20  
Old 11-07-2013, 01:12 AM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stugist View Post
Ordered and installed new Bosch glowplugs; reamed out the holes while I was at it and figured I'd do a compression test too. Got my lovely lady out to help me; she cranked the engine while I read the gauge. All 4 cylinders capped on about the 6th, 7th stroke at around 400 PSI, give or take a bit. Installed the new glowplugs with copper antiseize on the threads. The real test will be when she starts it tomorrow morning. The test was done with the engine warm, through the GP holes (obviously). I made sure to check each new gp before I installed them.

Oh, and the leaking? Fuel. From the IP where the hardline to injector #1 is. Is there a seal underneath that hex or something?
Loosen the compression nut, move the line slightly (it should come straight up), re-tighten lightly and keep tweaking until it does not leak.

Be careful you don't (Gorilla) over tighten the fitting.

.
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Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
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Vehicle build.
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1983 300D
1984 190D
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  #21  
Old 11-07-2013, 02:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Loosen the compression nut, move the line slightly (it should come straight up), re-tighten lightly and keep tweaking until it does not leak.

Be careful you don't (Gorilla) over tighten the fitting.

.
Could you explain a bit more of this? I'm not entirely sure what you're referring to.
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  #22  
Old 11-07-2013, 03:04 AM
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The lines that go back to the injector pump are held in place with nuts on the injector pump. Follow whunter's directions from there.
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  #23  
Old 11-07-2013, 03:22 AM
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Uh...

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Originally Posted by TnBob View Post
The lines that go back to the injector pump are held in place with nuts on the injector pump. Follow whunter's directions from there.
Which is the compression nut...? From what I see, each section has 3 nuts; one large one where the fuel comes out and two smaller ones flanking it.
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  #24  
Old 11-07-2013, 08:54 AM
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I think he means the nut connecting the hard line running from the injector to the IP to the IP. It's a 14 mm, I think.
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  #25  
Old 11-07-2013, 09:39 AM
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the 240 and older diesel motors should have 17mm wrench size hard line nuts on them.
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  #26  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:21 PM
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Ah

Gotcha.
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  #27  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:24 PM
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Yup.

OM61x = 17mm nuts
OM60x = 14 mm nuts
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  #28  
Old 11-07-2013, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
the 240 and older diesel motors should have 17mm wrench size hard line nuts on them.
Been a while since I played with them, I guess .

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