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'85 300D Vacuum pump question
I am in need of a vacuum pump rebuild kit. I have searched and there seems to be kits available for 617 up to '84, and for for the '85 617. Does anyone know whether or not the VP changed in '85? And would the kits work from the earlier years? Any help or insight would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks Charlie Last edited by whunter; 11-04-2013 at 08:31 PM. Reason: spelling |
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I did not know the pumps since 81 could be rebuilt. I thought only the vane pumps were rebuildable....
what's in the kit to rebuild the "up to 84"?
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! 1987 300TD 1987 300TD 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
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Welll I have found some "online" byy Pierburg,but they run around $200. These have a rocker arm but, no diaphragm. I have seen others that run around $17-20 with a diaphragm. Are these pumps rebuildable? I have searched and found some threads that show they are. But, these were for '81 or '83. Just was wondering if the vacuum pump changed?
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Your vacuum pump doesnt have a diaphram. When i rebuilt mine, i used a kit similar to this 1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D Sedan - Emissions Equipment - Page 1 . You will also need the gasket above the link as it does not come with the kit. If you are going to rebuild the rocker arm also, you might as well buy a new vacuum pump.
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'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles |
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If you have a Piston type Pump there is 2 rebuild Kits.
One for the Piston and the Valves and another for the Arm and Bearing that faces the inside of the Engine. And, neither Kit comes with a new Check Valve. When you buy both kits you have spent as much money as a New Vacuum Pump and the new one will come with a warranty.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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I've put quite a bit of information about the OM61X piston vacuum pumps here =>
More than you are likely to ever want to know about OM61X piston vacuum pumps There are links to other threads as well - in particular to the biggest one so far on the subject started by Beagle.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Ok, here's why I think I need to have my vacuum pump rebuilt was that my mechanic said I did. My car would not shut off, so, he said he disconnected the vacuum line to the break booster and he said that he didn't hear any "hissing". Now, from everything that I've read you would have to use a vacuum gauge to be able to see if there is vacuum. So, now I have a delimma. Should I try and get a "kit" and rebuild it, buy a new one, or get a vacuum guage and test it? Having looked at the thread that stretch posted it appears to be extensive. Any advice?
Thanks Charlie |
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A vacuum gauge is an essential tool for working on these cars, so yes, get a vacuum gauge. Actually you'll want a mighty-vac, which is a hand operated vacuum pump with a gauge on it.
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Yea.... More than likely it is one of the check valves. There is a big one in the top of the pump that "screws in" from the top to the main vacuum line. Then there are a couple more behind the front cover.
I remember doing a "half as@ed" rebuild on mine when I had it. It is kind of a PITA to remove the front cover and replace the check valves and o-ring. BUT, worth it IMO if you are driving the car a lot. I got the kit off of this site. Call them! Talk to them! They will get you what you need. You really need a good vacuum tester and gauge for this. Harbor Freight is good enough to fix the problem and get beyond it. Just don't expect the tools to last. They got a knock off Mighty Vac tool that is good enough for a couple years. It falls apart after that. If you plan to keep the car, get a Mighty Vac (or equivalent). Or, start saving big stacks of cash to take it elsewhere. If you took this particular car to a "so called mechanic" and "he did not hear any hissing".... You need to find another mechanic ASAP or start saving big stacks of cash.... That is not a mechanic. That is a "want to be mechanic". A real mechanic could have hooked up a vacuum gauge in less than 5 seconds on this car and showed you a reading. Then he could have pulled vacuum from the pump and in other directions to check various check valves in about 50 more seconds. Seriously.....
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AJ 1985 300D (SOLD) |
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Answer
Quote:
All parts interchange. Vacuum Pump Rebuild Thread .
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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Quote:
You might wonder where the Mechanics Head was. If you really have a Vacuum Pump Failure your Power Brakes will not work and you would have had to step really hard on the Brakes to stop;scary. And, when that happed to Me it turned out that the Check Valve that Screws into the Vacuum pump needed to be cleaned. After removing the Check Valve and hosing it out with WD-40 it has been working for over 3 years with no issues. (Others have removed the Check Valve and found the Valve parts in pieces; there is replacement Valves.) The No or slow shutoff issue can be caused by Vacuum losses anywhere in the Vacuum System but more specific in the Shutoff Vacuum System lines and the Vacuum Shutoff Valve mounted on the Steering Colum Lock and the Vacuum Shutoff Valve/Servo on the Fuel Injection Pump. In short these Cars can have a lot of Vacuum Loss issues not caused by the Vacuum Pump. However, checking the Vacuum Directly from the Pump is a good place to start. If you invest in a Hand Held Vacuum Tester (a.k.a. Mighty Vac) you will have your Vacuum Gauge and a way to test the Vacuum Components on your Car because it has a hand pump on it.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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Here is where the Check Valve is located.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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FYI
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ASE Master Mechanic asemastermechanic@juno.com Prototype R&D/testing: Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician. Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH). Dynamometer. Heat exchanger durability. HV-A/C Climate Control. Vehicle build. Fleet Durability Technical Quality Auditor. Automotive Technical Writer 1985 300SD 1983 300D 1984 190D 2003 Volvo V70 2002 Honda Civic https://www.boldegoist.com/ |
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Where do vacuum pump check valve parts go ?
Where do vacuum pump check valve parts go ?
I just had my 400,000 mile 300SD lose vacuum and only get two or three presses on the brake pedal until hard pedal sets in. After a long highway run I get power brakes for like one stop (two or three presses). Then hard brake pedal. After reading this thread my first stop was take out the vacuum pump check valve. Nothing inside, wide open - my question is, WHERE DO THE MISSING PARTS GO ? I am afraid to hear the answer, because inside the pump is the only place to go. It made me think that if I were to open the front of the vacuum pump I might find some small debris that could be removed before further damage. I did not do this, but headed off to the junkyard and pulled the only three vacuum check valves they had. One was missing the guts, the other two had the parts inside . So I come home with two check valves. One of them seems to operate as expected with me blowing through it so that is the one I put in. Drove the car about two miles, up to 50mph, got feeble brake response and car does not shut off. Did my 75 mile commute , and brakes are only slightly better and car does not shut off. I have not tested vacuum at any ports yet, taking it one step at a time. If I eventually need a vacuum pump, disappointed. Either a kit for $150usd or a pump for $300usd. Seems kinda steep, at least for the rebuild kit. Do these pumps go out often ? (of course I am at 400,000 miles). The other valve, I sprayed WD40, cleaned it up, and it looks really good and behaves like the other one when I blow through it. Air is allowed to flow from small end to large end, air is blocked from large end through small end. Any advice on removing that debris , for preventative failures sake ? Any luck with junkyard pumps ? The cars I got my parts from said 250,000 miles on ODO, and who knows if the ODO's worked.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
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Quote:
The Vacuum Pump itself has a Check Valve that is normally brass colored that screws in to the Vacuum Pump. Then inside of the Vacuum Pump itself is at least 2 other Valves and maybe a third one. When the parts of the Check Valve on the Vacuum Pump go the dump down inside of a cavity in the Vacuum Pump. The parts fall into the yellow area in the diagram.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
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