W123 TD Anti-Sway Bar Bushings N.LA.
 

Checked here to be sure, and sure enough, N.L.A.. When using the proper part number, we received the smaller diameter sized bushings. Rubber is too tough for my skill level to re-size. Guess time to buy some Flexane...

Hope this helps! :D

Do you have a pic of it? You might of been sent the wrong bushing.

Part numbers are as follows.

123 323 12 85 for the wagon version with a 25mm sway bar.

123 323 05 85 for the sedan and coupe version with the 24mm sway bar.

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I purchased my TD bushings 123 323 12 85 from the Classic Center at $27 per side. :eek: Other part houses list them under 4 bucks for after market.

Here are pics of the difference. The 8 holed bushing is the Sedan/Coupe 24mm bushing - 123 323 05 85. The 4 holed bushing is the Wagon 25mm bushing. 123 323 12 85.

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1383753080


In this pic, I found a used (still good), 24mm bushing fits a 25mm swaybar just fine.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1383753123

Compared to the correct 25mm bushing on the 25mm swaybar.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1383753123


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Lube that correct sized bushing up with some Sylglide, inside and out, then clamp it down. Should work fine. You want it to be that tight. If you get the bushing warm it will help stretch it over the sway bar. Once you get those proper bushings on there, you won't have to change them for another decade.

Phil Forrest

Might want to get some extras and seal them up in a nice dark container just in case they're not availible in another decade!

Happy Motoring, Mark

Thank you all for the help! :D Glad to see these still might be out there, though not sure if I want to pay $70... Might consider $55 though.

Yep! I attached the one from a few days ago.

That is also the part number stamped on the old bushing and on the package.

However, the Febi packaged bushings are, hold on to to your seats... 20mm! :eek: They have the four holes even!

Why are there holes in the bushings? I would think they make the bushing softer, right?

I told the friend I order parts from I talk to the Classic Center, but said to wait as were $36 a pop. When did you pay $27? I very much believe that is still the current price.

Even then, cost of casting my own is less.

Phil, I am using mineral oil to preserve them. ;) But, there is no amount of lube that will make these fit!

I wouldn't hoard, as these should be easy to mold. A mold mean anytime I or someone else needed one, just cast a fresh one. Plus, my one auto garage is overly full as it is!

The 4 hole one is the correct Bushing for the TD Sway Bar. Mine fit on the bar just as Deliveryvalve shows in the picture.

I stripped the bar and gave it a good coat of POR paint as well as the pocket it sits in on the Firewall.

Now with new rubber and the new paint, it didn`t want to slide on the bar or slip into the pocket very well. so I used some spray Silicone. then with the clamps positioned, I pushed it down enough to get the 2 nuts started, and she went right together. I used new Ny-Lock nuts.

I bought aftermarket Bushings, paid just over $3 ea. took me a while to find the TD part #, did a lot of Googling, why make them if they are so cheap? These will last me as long as I own the car.


Charlie

Thank you Charlie for the reply! :D So are you saying I can fit the 20mm hole over a 25mm bar? :confused: I sure couldn't get the bracket on! One side go on then bind before I could get the other on. Don't think strength is an issue.

I thought I recall trying to find Ny-Locks and being in some odd size... Need some for the U.C.A. as don't think reusable? :o

Yes the holes is to make them softer to able to twist with the swaybar motion.

I purchased them back in May. My real reason to purchasing the higher cost MB mount is because of my previous experience of hearing the aftermarket bushing make noises after 3 years or so. So I decided to try the MB bushings to see if there is a difference in the long term.

I had no problems in getting the MB bushing seated in place, it smooshed right in.
I would heat the Febi bushing up in the oven at a low temp, say 200 degrees for a few minutes, to make it easier to install them. You should be good to go with that technique.

Thank you so much for the reply! :D

So guess I could get away without any, as just make it stiffer and more chance of the nuts coming loose?

Good point about bushing noise! I had not thought of that when I ordered aftermarket for the Volvo and Mercedes... :o

The Febi packaged are 5mm too small! :eek: So will contact Tom and get a price. Maybe it is just worth it to know my options, as my friend might be mistaken on the price.

I have a space between the bushing and sway bar big enough to fit a pencil in....so I just ordered these from the UK...

Mercedes 240 300 D 230 280CE Front Antiroll Bar Bush x 2 New German 123323058 | eBay

Well, I was told Febi just repackages. Over all, good luck! :D

You do not want to resize the Bushings.

The bushings are not NLA.

Following link is for the TD Bushings 123-323-12-85
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

The following link is for the sedan Bushings 123-323-05-85
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

Which part# did you order?

Charlie

When I installed my Bushings, I had the engine out, removed the Battery and Tray. Removed the MC and Brake Booster, and I did not have the SB attached to the upper Control Arms.

I was replacing the Sedan Bar for a TD Wagon Bar. This might have made it a bit easier to get the Bushing installed for me.

Charlie

I heard that, it will be interesting to know what they are when I get them.....I would have to google again but I think the only ones I could find was febi...fingers crossed they will last longer then my uro tie rod :P