Heater Hose Routing and Flow - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

eatont9999 · #16 11-08-2013, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

So made some time this evening to get something done and this is one.

I am finding a lot of this scale in the tubes, with this peice one of the worse. Should I be concerned? Is it still useable?

Also, where does it go?

Second, what hose goes between the lower pipe and the left heater core pipe? Hard to tell in the kindly provided pictures...

Thank you all in advance!

I'm not sure where the hose goes but UGH, that is nasty! You might want to look into a citric acid flush. If that build up is in the hose, you can bet it is all throughout the cooling system.

Adriel · #17 11-08-2013, 10:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

I'm not sure where the hose goes but UGH, that is nasty! You might want to look into a citric acid flush. If that build up is in the hose, you can bet it is all throughout the cooling system.

Eaton, thank you so very much for trying!

Did you see all the rust in the pipes? I thought the P.O. was right in using standard green, but apparently diesels need a special coolant to handle corrosion and hot spots caused by a compression engine. So will be switching to Zerex diesel formula, which isn't the same as what folks are using on here.

Before I make the switch, that is why I wanted to do Zerex Super Cleaner and Zerex Super Flush. figure to pull a hose or two and see if they made any difference. Should have per this: If you ever need to flush your coolant system... [Archive] - Massdriven Automotive Forums

Adriel · #18 11-08-2013, 11:13 PM

I found a good deal for the Zerex and as it turned out, form the came company I got the rubber from! Duh! Well at least I found out before going with another!

So should be on its way on Monday.

eatont9999 · #19 11-08-2013, 11:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

Eaton, thank you so very much for trying!

Did you see all the rust in the pipes? I thought the P.O. was right in using standard green, but apparently diesels need a special coolant to handle corrosion and hot spots caused by a compression engine. So will be switching to Zerex diesel formula, which isn't the same as what folks are using on here.

Before I make the switch, that is why I wanted to do Zerex Super Cleaner and Zerex Super Flush. figure to pull a hose or two and see if they made any difference. Should have per this: If you ever need to flush your coolant system... [Archive] - Massdriven Automotive Forums

In my grey 300SD, someone used straight water for apparently a long time. The corrosion was a concern. The coolant is still muddy brown even after several citric flushes. My case is an extreme example of neglect.

You can buy the citric flush from MB, or you can get it from ebay, etc for a lot less. It is simple citric acid in a dry form. It can be bought at health food stores as well. food grade or not, it does not matter. The acid chemically dissolves the rust deposits and other build up. Citric acid is environmentally friendly, so feel free to dump out the used fluid anywhere convenient.

De-oil the system first by running detergent like Shout through the coolant system. Run this for a day or so. Flush with clean water a few times, then mix and add the citric acid. Run that for a day, flush several times with fresh water. The last flush or two should be distilled water. Add 2 gallons of Zerex G05 and top off the rest with distilled water. Put the final coolant charge in only after you have replaced any hoses or other components.

Be warned that if you have any major corrosion problems, you could reveal a leak. If your heater core is questionable, you may not be able to use this method of clearing up your coolant system. If such is the case, you are soon to have problems anyway; as in corrosion holding your coolant system together. Most people do not have a problem, though.

Adriel · #20 11-09-2013, 12:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

In my grey 300SD, someone used straight water for apparently a long time. The corrosion was a concern. The coolant is still muddy brown even after several citric flushes. My case is an extreme example of neglect.

You can buy the citric flush from MB, or you can get it from ebay, etc for a lot less. It is simple citric acid in a dry form. It can be bought at health food stores as well. food grade or not, it does not matter. The acid chemically dissolves the rust deposits and other build up. Citric acid is environmentally friendly, so feel free to dump out the used fluid anywhere convenient.

De-oil the system first by running detergent like Shout through the coolant system. Run this for a day or so. Flush with clean water a few times, then mix and add the citric acid. Run that for a day, flush several times with fresh water. The last flush or two should be distilled water. Add 2 gallons of Zerex G05 and top off the rest with distilled water. Put the final coolant charge in only after you have replaced any hoses or other components.

Be warned that if you have any major corrosion problems, you could reveal a leak. If your heater core is questionable, you may not be able to use this method of clearing up your coolant system. If such is the case, you are soon to have problems anyway; as in corrosion holding your coolant system together. Most people do not have a problem, though.

Eaton, thank you so very much for the help!

I know about citric acid, but want to try this. The cost is about $6, so not end of the world if it doesn't work. My issue is I don't have as much evidence of citric acid working as Super Clean. If the article is true, bet the super Clean would have taken care of the your mess sooner than the citric.

I am concerned I do have a problem, but hoping to force it happen sooner than if I just leave it. I got a road trip in about a month, so no pressure!

I figure now to get some more proper line clamps, then if I have a leak can just pinch off the the hoses until I find another heater core. B.T.W., what are they made of?

eatont9999 · #21 11-09-2013, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

Eaton, thank you so very much for the help!

I know about citric acid, but want to try this. The cost is about $6, so not end of the world if it doesn't work. My issue is I don't have as much evidence of citric acid working as Super Clean. If the article is true, bet the super Clean would have taken care of the your mess sooner than the citric.

I am concerned I do have a problem, but hoping to force it happen sooner than if I just leave it. I got a road trip in about a month, so no pressure!

I figure now to get some more proper line clamps, then if I have a leak can just pinch off the the hoses until I find another heater core. B.T.W., what are they made of?

Super Clean may work just as well but I have no experience with it, so I can't endorse it. I doubt it will hurt anything.

At least in most of AZ, you don't need heat that badly this time of year. Here in NTX, we are just hitting cooler weather. You could probably get away with bypassing the cabin heat system for a short time if need be.

The heater core is made of aluminum. The radiators are aluminum as well.

Adriel · #22 11-09-2013, 12:29 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

Super Clean may work just as well but I have no experience with it, so I can't endorse it. I doubt it will hurt anything.

At least in most of AZ, you don't need heat that badly this time of year. Here in NTX, we are just hitting cooler weather. You could probably get away with bypassing the cabin heat system for a short time if need be.

The heater core is made of aluminum. The radiators are aluminum as well.

Eaton, thank you so very much!

It is because of the lack over here want to give it a shot. Same with the diesel coolant. I like to return a small portion of the help you all have provided!

Are you kidding! It is FREEZING already! I have to wear my thick thermals, flannel shirts, sweater, and lined coat to keep warm in the mornings. I REALLY miss the warmth of a diesel!

See! The P.O. was wrong about there being no aluminum. I bet the corrosion is dielectric, especially in the heater cores tube.

eatont9999 · #23 11-09-2013, 12:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adriel

Eaton, thank you so very much!

It is because of the lack over here want to give it a shot. Same with the diesel coolant. I like to return a small portion of the help you all have provided!

Are you kidding! It is FREEZING already! I have to wear my thick thermals, flannel shirts, sweater, and lined coat to keep warm in the mornings. I REALLY miss the warmth of a diesel!

See! The P.O. was wrong about there being no aluminum. I bet the corrosion is dielectric, especially in the heater cores tube.

Really? I didn't think it got that cold so soon over there. It was in the 40's here the other day and that was a bit nipply for us.

Without the correct coolant, dielectric corrosion will be a problem; most likely why you have that nastyness in your hoses. In my 7.3IDI Ford, I have to use a low-silicate antifreeze and add an anti-cavitation additive so I don't have to worry about water jacket cavitation eating into the cylinder walls. MB uses a specific coolant mostly for dielectric corrosion issues. Even in the petrol cars, the blocks can be cast iron but the heads and everything else is aluminum.

Adriel · #24 11-09-2013, 01:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by eatont9999

Really? I didn't think it got that cold so soon over there. It was in the 40's here the other day and that was a bit nipply for us.

Without the correct coolant, dielectric corrosion will be a problem; most likely why you have that nastyness in your hoses. In my 7.3IDI Ford, I have to use a low-silicate antifreeze and add an anti-cavitation additive so I don't have to worry about water jacket cavitation eating into the cylinder walls. MB uses a specific coolant mostly for dielectric corrosion issues. Even in the petrol cars, the blocks can be cast iron but the heads and everything else is aluminum.

Eaton, thank you so very much for the reply!

It is in the mid fifties, so guess you would like that, especially when winter really hits! My Brother is in Axtell, so I know what extremes you all go through.

I am glad I am not thinking wrong!

Here is what I am going to use: Valvoline.com > Products > Heavy Duty Coolant/Antifreeze > > Zerex® Extended Life Antifreeze / Coolant Looks like what you could use.

It dawned on me I could use the corrosion to my advantage!

So, the rust color went to the pipe and the white scale went to core. Bam, then I saw where it went!

B.T.W., I am using a dab of synthetic grease to hopefully protect the metal from further corrosion.

Ember however kept trying to get me to bed and is now sulking! [chuckle] She knows I shouldn't be working so very very late at night. But, couldn't resist trying...

rscurtis · #25 11-09-2013, 10:22 AM

Second, what hose goes between the lower pipe and the left heater core pipe? Hard to tell in the kindly provided pictures…

It's a short piece with about a 150* bend in it. Unless you're already committed to conventional coolant, clean up the system and switch to NPG as I just did.

Adriel · #26 11-09-2013, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rscurtis

Second, what hose goes between the lower pipe and the left heater core pipe? Hard to tell in the kindly provided pictures…

It's a short piece with about a 150* bend in it. Unless you're already committed to conventional coolant, clean up the system and switch to NPG as I just did.

Thank you so very much for the reply!

So did I put the hose in the wrong place?

What is N.P.G.? Natural protection glycol?

rscurtis · #27 11-09-2013, 02:48 PM

Best I can tell from you picture, it looks OK to me. NPG is Non-Aqueous Propylene Glycol, or waterless coolant. Search my recent posts for more info. Home » Engine Cooling Systems

Adriel · #28 11-09-2013, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rscurtis

Best I can tell from you picture, it looks OK to me. NPG is Non-Aqueous Propylene Glycol, or waterless coolant. Search my recent posts for more info. Home » Engine Cooling Systems

Thank you so very much for the reply!

Ugg! Well, just spent the $60 on the other stuff! Guess I could cancel, but not sure how to go about that...

I will try and search for it.

Adriel · #29 11-09-2013, 04:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rscurtis

I did the switchover today. Here are the results. As an unscientific method to determine any viscosity difference from the MB coolant and distilled water, I measured the amperage draw on the circulator pump before and after the change. The viscosity difference results in a 7% increase in wattage draw- from 8.08 to 8.68 watts. Both of those figures are with hot coolant. Regarding its specific heat, the heater will still blow you out of the car and the temperature gauge reads the same as it did before. Note the warning label- NPG does not contain EG, but is cautioned in the same fashion as conventional EG coolant.

I used two gallons of their prep fluid to remove all the water from the system. It can be recovered and used again until its water content is about 10% measured with a refractometer. I disconnected the heater core and blew it out separately. The most difficult part of the job was the block drain, and then the tedious refill process until the heater core and water pump are bled.

There you have it, no politics and no spin.

I found it!

Made the leap, but man is it expensive!

But, my Service Dog is worth way more, even if I went out and bought a puppy.

Always has scared me having that nasty stuff around and when doing a flush being stuck with it. Now no need to ever flush and can drain the fluid and put in another engine if so needed.

B.T.W., they are now saying 3 percent water, not 10 percent. So, I went and got the spectrometer also. No since doing it part way and having issues.

Adriel · #30 11-09-2013, 08:48 PM

Thank you all for the help!

Got all the hoses at least put on, if not clamped. I left the clamps loose on the mono-valve and the pipe that has the bracket bolted to the battery tray, as want to put in the battery tray first and get everything happy. But, to put in the battery tray, I need the anti-sway bar bushings...

But, before the hoses could go in, had to clean the mono-valve of all the corrosion and swap the bracket. Got to love the Dremel! In no time had a nice mild polish on all the associated metal. Pictures will come.

The hose from the right most tube to the Y was a pain. Figured out the others hose clamp was blocking the other clamp and hose from fully seating. Also, the hose doesn't have the special smaller end like the others so have to really crank down all the extra rubber. Probably why that one has a hole, as the corrosive mix got trapped. Further, the heater core end has to go on before the Y, then stretch to the Y.