The SKF inner seals had to be driven in with a wooden drift.

They would not seat, so extra hammer blows on the drift.

Yeah, the spring deformed, tore out, garbage.

Set me back a few days.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

Well you may be right, national is a U.S. Co.

Custom Bearings and Bearing Components Manufacturer: National Bearings Company

I just know when I ordered some bearings, the only one`s I could find were National, and made in China. this was from CARQUEST for a Nissan 5-spd trans, and $87.
Finally found Japanese made Natchie @ www.vxp.com for $33 with shipping.
They carry china made as well.

Napa $27 and Carquest $26 for a Chicom pilot bearing. think these are $7 on Pelican.

It really get`s me tight jawed when I have to pay top dollar for a bearing made in another country because they can be made cheaper.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Concerning Bearings what I do is I look at the Numbers on the Origional Bearings and then I go shopping on eBay for them. I try to find the exact same bearing or one by another Maker that is the same quality. Looking for USA, Japan or German Bearing.
I just did this on My Chevy Van Differential. I got exactly the same Torrintgton and Timken Bearings Made in the USA for 1/2 the cost at other places.
If you are careful you can knock out the Inner Bearing Races with a Steel Punch.
However, a Brass Punch/Drift is Ideal.
Aluminum works but of course does not take the Beating Steel or Brass Dies

The Inner races also have their own Number on them.

What you have to beware of is that all of the Bearing companies sell Made In China Bearings. Timken as an example has at least 3 grades of bearings and one of them is going to be made in China.

Also. In the case of My Pinion Bearing Race. I went to the Bearing Makers site and looked up what number the Race was. It takes a while to look through but they have catalogs with that info and the bearing specs.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I cannot afford the 110$ per side for Genuine MB but can probably afford the next best option.

Which manufacturer is best. Needs to be Japanese, or real german, not Chinese german.

Which tool would be best for removing the races? I was gonna pick up a punch and chisel set.

Any good threads on this procedure? For a 1979 240D btw
Thanks in advance [/QUOTE]

Concerning Bearings what I do is I look at the Numbers on the Origional Bearings and then I go shopping on eBay for them. I try to find the exact same bearing or one by another Maker that is the same quality. Looking for USA, Japan or German Bearing.
I just did this on My Chevy Van Differential. I got exactly the same Torrintgton and Timken Bearings Made in the USA for 1/2 the cost at other places.
If you are careful you can knock out the Inner Bearing Races with a Steel Punch.
However, a Brass Punch/Drift is Ideal.
Aluminum works but of course does not take the Beating Steel or Brass Dies

The Inner races also have their own Number on them.

What you have to beware of is that all of the Bearing companies sell Made In China Bearings. Timken as an example has at least 3 grades of bearings and one of them is going to be made in China.

Also. In the case of My Pinion Bearing Race. I went to the Bearing Makesrs site and looked up what number the Race was. It takes a while to look through but they have catalogs with that info and the bearing specs.
If your old Bearings look good there is no reason not to reuse them if you want to.
I overheated the grease in My front wheel Hubs by not using a Dial Indicator to adjust the End Play. Since I started using the Dial Indicator I have had no issues at all.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

SKF , FAG, Timken, National.

I like and use a lot of FAG and Timken bearings.

Nothing against other brands, my local suppliers always have those two on the shelf.

.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Not the National ( By Federal Mogul ) I was referencing , look at this one National Brand Home Page

This isn't the fault of the seal, it is an installer error.

Garter springs can pop out of the groove when installed by impact, pressing seals in is a better method. If hammering can't be avoided, pack the garter spring area with grease.

Also, using a small diameter drift to go round and round the seal will distort it, use a flat object larger than the seal OD.

Okay, yet I have installed other manufacturers inner seals in the same manner successfully.

IIRC, the drift was a 2x4.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

It is more of a case where you got away with other seal installs not dislodging the garter spring. Likely because the press fit was less so impact was less. Another method that works is a seal installer that holds the seal lip on a shaft to keep tension on the spring.

www.skf.com/files/774717.pdf

Chapter 9 pages 79 / 80 Hammer Damage

Somewhere on our site someone was rebuilding a rear diff and had issues with dislodging axle shaft seal springs so this sometimes occurs.

Lucky, perhaps.

Let me quote Richard Petty, "I'd rather be lucky than good."

Yet when a seal won't seat, what is one to do?

The FSM doesn't indicate any special install tool.

Bottom line, I refuse to use any SKF product.

All others work fine.

Of course, this is just my opinion.

Hopefully, I can spare others difficulty.

__________________
83 SD

84 CD

When I worked as a Mechanic if you brought those Hubs to Our Shop I would have used a Hammer and a Brass Punch to remove and Install the Bearing Races.

And, yes Our Shop had a Hydraulic Press (I have one at Home also).

What our Shop did not have was a whole bunch of different sized Tools that fit ever bearing race that might be brought in.

Even if NAPA had the correct Tool install the Bearing Races; all of the Manuals I have see show pounding inner Races in in any way.
sometimes you can find a nice thick Washer or grind down the edges to reduce the OD of the Washer and use that to drive races in. And, and if you have large Sockets they often are good for driving things in place.

Just adding this. The Seals also have the Makers Name and number on the most of the time. If you can see that right it down before you remove the Seal as removing the Seal often obliterates the Numbers.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Using these part numbers, find a LM48548 bearing specification. It states 34.925mm when 21.45mm is what the FAG is and fits correctly on the 22mm spindle. If these fit fine, which is most likely the case, then the website is incorrect.

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.

Not sure where the measurement was gotten...

But there are two sizes to the bearing...

I'd and od

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Not sure where the measurement was gotten...

But there are two sizes to the bearing...

I.D. and o.d.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

John, as I though I clearly stated, from Timken themselves; the link is part of the sentence.

Which Mercedes has a wheel bearing of 22mm outer diameter? Goodness, that probably be about a 10 or 12 spindle.

The spindler outer diameter is about 22mm and the correct bearing (this case using a used FAG German) is 21.45mm inner diameter.

Didn't consider the outer as looked correct and have yet to have an issue.

All I was asking was if LM48548 fits.

If it does fit, then why do the specifications matter?

Also, if does fit, then there are only two cone options, the one chosen is apparently the most common and by my rough measurement (as the race is still in the hub) 65mm outer diameter is correct.

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.