1985 300D W123 Subframe Bushings Meyle - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

masc243 · #1 11-06-2013, 10:09 PM

Changed my subframe bushings today. Used Meyle bushings that I got for 65 with free shipping. Was rather cautious based on the postings regarding the aftermarket bushings vs the OEM, but decided to risk it.

Had no real issue removing the old bushings. Used a cold chisel to get them started out, then a little prying and rocking and they came right out. I then tried to use some dish soap and a hydraulic jack to set the left bushing. No way! Got it to within 1/2 inch and no more.

Next day, got a piece of 1/2 inch 13 tpi all thread as suggested here on the forum. Cut it to 8". Instead of the welded up u bracket that I've seen fabricated, I found that I had a huge socket in the tool box. I believe it might have been for a 4x4 hub on my 97 F250. At any rate it's diameter fits fairly well to the diameter of the steel part of the bushing on the 300D. Used the all thread and some big washers on top and she slid right together. After finishing the left side I proceeded to the right and had it signed, sealed and delivered in less than 30 minutes. Oh and don't forget the Sil Glyde. This stuff is magic lube. Guy at adv auto tried to convince me that it was only for brakes and I needed some wd40 silicone. Told him this is what the guys on the forum use and that's what I bought. Worked Fantastic. I'm attaching a couple of pics of my setup.

I know this post is pretty much duplicated, but I appreciate the info i've learned on this site; had to try to return the favor.

whunter · #2 11-07-2013, 12:13 AM

measure the socket diameter.

thanks
.

charmalu · #3 11-07-2013, 03:55 AM

X2 on Syl-Glyde.

When I did our 85 300D, I read to use KY Jelly, the bushing went in to about 1/2 inch. Left it over night with pressure, and the next morning it was the same.

Removed it, cleaned up the mess and used Syl-Glyde, and she went right in.
Great stuff.

Thanks for the feed back, and welcome to the Forum.

Charlie

cooljjay · #4 11-07-2013, 09:03 PM

Also would like to know the socket size....seems like a great easy cheap press...

masc243 · #5 11-08-2013, 08:14 PM

3/4" Drive 2.75" Socket.

shadetreemechan · #6 11-10-2013, 08:44 PM

Where do I find subframe bushings on peachparts? All I can find is the rear conrol arm bushings.

whunter · #7 11-11-2013, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadetreemechan

Where do I find subframe bushings on peachparts? All I can find is the rear control arm bushings.

Nobody can answer, without knowing which car it is for.
1985 300 TD 301K
1984 300 SD unknown mileage
1972 220 D project

.

cooljjay · #8 11-11-2013, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by masc243

3/4" Drive 2.75" Socket.

Awesome thanks, I will put one on my shopping list when I do mine.....

masc243 · #9 11-11-2013, 08:07 PM

For the life of me, i can't remember what I bought it for, but it works.

On another note, Changed the left lower and upper ball joints today. I think the hardest part was getting the steering knuckle off. Used a $25 tool from AA; like to think it was surely going to strip, but it finally popped it off. From there, I beat the old one out and then used a large diameter socket out of a ball joint kit that was worthless for pressing these in. One of the sockets was the right diameter to match the Ball Joint lip. Used a cold chisel and just worked it around the perimeter until it seated.

I think I might be ready to put my new ride on the road to work this week.

shadetreemechan · #10 11-12-2013, 10:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Nobody can answer, without knowing which car it is for.
1985 300 TD 301K
1984 300 SD unknown mileage
1972 220 D project

.

Sorry, the 85. We are on a 123 thread so I didn't think about my sig. The 85 is now at 360 and the others are long gone.....guess I should update.

whunter · #11 11-12-2013, 11:51 PM

1985 300 TD rear subframe mounts.

Repair kit
MB# 1233500375

.

shadetreemechan · #12 11-14-2013, 07:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

1985 300 TD rear subframe mounts.

Repair kit
MB# 1233500375

.

That kit doesn't appear to have the rubber mount. That is the only part I need. The actual subframe bushings look ok, but the rubber part being installed in the op is what I am looking for.

Graham · #13 11-14-2013, 01:46 PM

I am looking at doing same job one of these days. I was thinking of using a cheap 2.75" hole saw instead of the socket (with teeth ground off). Is that the best size or would a larger one be better? Maybe an even larger one could be used for removal too?

Regarding the kit, this is what I get when looking for the kit on another site. Seems to have all the parts including the bushing. Seems as though PP site picture is wrong. From the price, it must include the whole kit!

whunter · #14 11-14-2013, 02:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shadetreemechan

That kit doesn't appear to have the rubber mount. That is the only part I need. The actual subframe bushings look OK, but the rubber part being installed in the op is what I am looking for.

Pelican has the wrong graphic..

Repair kit
MB# 1233500375

Repair kit
MB# 1233500375

.

masc243 · #15 11-15-2013, 10:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Graham

I am looking at doing same job one of these days. I was thinking of using a cheap 2.75" hole saw instead of the socket (with teeth ground off). Is that the best size or would a larger one be better? Maybe an even larger one could be used for removal too?

Regarding the kit, this is what I get when looking for the kit on another site. Seems to have all the parts including the bushing. Seems as though PP site picture is wrong. From the price, it must include the whole kit!

I think the hole saw would work fine. The overall depth and diameter of the hole saw has to large enough to encase the bushing and the diameter has to be of a size that it is going to seat on the metal flat surface of the new bushing. Will also need at least a 1/2 hole for the all thread. And don't forget the syl-glide