Or when the oil is cold and thick otherwise the filter element will crush. This is a standard item on all cars.

A low rent way to control an oil cooler, a bypass valve is placed across the cooler lines rather than a thermostat.

i.ve seen it leak past the oil filter tower o.ring when really cold. (still had 15w-40 in it).... sealed itself after a few minutes.

Thanks to all who responded to my situation.
I just placed an order online for a brand new oil cooler, I intend to reinstall my hoses as they were not leaking only the cooler was. I just wanted to replace everything at the same time but price prohibits that idea.

I considered a used cooler, but seeing how mine is used and it leaks there are no guaranties with a used part. It may last a long while or only a few hours/days/weeks. Seems like every time I try to save money with a used part it ends up costing me more in the end.

This is my wife's daily driver and she loves the car. I would like to consider selling it and buying something newer but she says 'Heck No'. She loves it and wants to keep it in good running order for a few more years, so we decided to go ahead and order a new part.

BTW I did take my leaky cooler to a radiator shop, they were not very interested in trying to fix it when I dropped it off, then they sat on it for a solid week and never got around to looking at it, also the 'screwed nipples' I ordered from the dealer were not the correct size when they arrived as someone mentioned they might not be, so that forced my decision as well.

Thanks Again.

Well, I thought all my problems were solved, when I finally decided to go ahead and spend the $$$ and order a brand new oil cooler for the wife's 87 300D, since her old one was leaking and the threads where the lines hook up were destroyed after taking the lines off. The 'screwed nipples' I ordered from the dealer were too small, and it was suggested by another member that they might be. I have a call into my Mercedes parts desk and they are trying to find out if the correct ones exist for the w124 cars, but I'm not holding my breath.
Anyway, the new cooler arrived yesterday, I took it out of the box and was ready to install it and get this car back on the road as it has been down over 2 weeks dealing with this fiasco. And I began to realize something was not right. I laid the 2 coolers on the work bench side by side and the new one is exactly backwards, or flip flopped.
The original one hangs from 2 pins at the top, there is a stud on the right where it hooks to a rubber stabilizer link, and the lines attach on the left. The new one has the stud on the left and the lines attach on the right. I went back to the website I ordered it from and they shipped me the correct part number, the picture they show is exactly like my original one. I even did a search by looking up the part number on the box and found the specs at the manufacturers website and it shows the correct one. My best guess is somehow it was not boxed correctly at the factory in Germany. This is usually how my luck goes, and what are the odds. I am still trying to get in touch with the parts warehouse I ordered it from, I guess that's what I get from ordering online, to see if they want to ship me another, or just return it for a refund. I am sort of afraid the same thing will happen again, if they ship me another, maybe they misboxed an entire batch of them.

I am thinking the one I got is for a RH drive car, as everything would be on the opposite side of the car. I could probably rig it up to work somehow, the lines are long enough, but I would have to rig the stabilizer side bracket up differently somehow, plus it just irkes me that I got the wrong part.

Whatever, I am no closer to having this car back on the road as I was 2 weeks ago, incredibly frustrating. I sometimes I wonder if my brain is functioning correctly by trying to keep a 26 year old car on the road as a daily driver.

If memory serves me correctly the 603 coolers have the line attachments outboard and the late 602 coolers have the line attachments inboard? I know there is a difference that means you can't mix them.

I have sold a dozen 603 used coolers & lines on ebay, with no come backs (yet!) I'd have bought the used one.

__________________
David Hendy
'97 Renntech E60RS
'97 GMC 2500 Sub' Diesel
'95 E300D
'88 300TE
'88 250TD
'84 L/Rover 109

If you pull the Oil Cooler yourself at the Junk Yard when it comes time to pay they ask you if you want to buy the Warranty/Insurance on the Part. That is good for about 1-2 Weeks.
If you bought a used Oil Cooler from a yard that pulls the Part for you they will either warrant it or you will again be given a chance to bury a warranty.
About 4 years ago an Oil Cooler out here was $20 if you removed it yourself. The Warranty is like 10% of the cost of the part so that neither is much compared to the cost of a New Oil Cooler.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I figured it out. While looking at used oil coolers on ebay, one for a 190D popped up, it is exactly backwards of mine, just like the one I received. The MB part# on mine is 2015018201. The MB part# for the 190D cooler is 2015018101 only 1 digit is different. It must have been misboxed at the factory.
All in all I just want my money back and I will try to find a used one and save some $$.
I have had a brain storm on the line set as well, if it works all the parts should be available at your local parts store. It may take me a few days to get it all figured out and put together then I will post back if it works.

I need a used cooler 1st and fast. Doesn't even matter if the threads are messed up on the connectors with my new idea. Gonna post a parts wanted thread see if I get any response.

Thanks.

After reading all the posts and links, a few comments:

1. Post #22 gave a link to 15 mm hose. The question is how to buy small quantities.

2. Hose clamps are fine, if you use the proper type. The after-market AC in my 65 used hose clamps and I never had a leak, indeed had to cut and peel the hoses off the nipples. AC sees up to 250 psig and 200 F. Cheap screw-clamps can cock sideways. The factory used crimp collars because it is fast and clean w/ an automated machine. They even do that on the heater hoses in my newer Mopars. I have an AC collar crimper I could use if I find a ferrule to match the hose.

3. The stainless steel braid is great mechanical protection. One of my oil cooler lines was cut by the power steering belt, when the belt flipped over (broken compressor belt tangled in it). Even if I used rubber hose, I would like to find steel braid sleeve to slip over. For now, I wrapped steel wire around my oil cooler hose, aka the power steering cooler hose below it. After my failure, I just swapped cooler hoses since had a spare, but it wasn't easy since had to remove a motor mount and fish the beast in.

The best answer is a crimped hose Ferrel.

Stainless Steel T Bolt Clamps are the only good/safe long term alternative on engine oil cooler hoses.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Stainless+Steel+T+Bolt+Clamps&client=firefox-a&hs=4J7&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=74mGUsXoF4jl4AP9kICQDA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=859

.

__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
1984 190D
2003 Volvo V70
2002 Honda Civic

https://www.boldegoist.com/