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  #16  
Old 11-07-2013, 11:27 PM
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If you haven't double-checked the valves, I would absolutely do so.

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  #17  
Old 11-07-2013, 11:34 PM
David S.
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Franklin, TN
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I think some fuel is leaking around one of the fuel injectors. It is always wet and moist after the engine has been running. I've heard that those collar nuts can sometimes loosen up and cause fuel leaks, but its not likely because they are torqued to something like 120ft lbs. And the tool to tighten them cost about 80$. That is probably the only fuel leak that I know of.
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  #18  
Old 11-07-2013, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrUkrainian View Post
Yes, I checked the clearance in the right area. And what I meant by broke, was when I put in that glow plug, the upper part unbolted and a bunch of white powder fell out. I wasnt sure what that was, so I installed an old one, but I thought maybe it was the one that was failing, so I changed it out with a could of more, but it still starts the same. I have a feeling that glowplugs are definatly a problem, but its not the problem of the white smoke and misfire randomly. The white smoke doesnt stop, no matter how long the car is running. I have a 300SD with the 617 and it starts up rough because of glowplugs, but one it warms up, it runs really smooth and doesnt misfire. Here is a video of the startup. 300d w123 rough start - YouTube
The heater end of the Glow Plugs is filled with Ceramic powder to support the heating Wire coils.

You did not mention how you turned the Engine. If the Engine was turned backwards it claimed is possible to jump a tooth on the Timing Chain. I did not catch what Engine or Vehicle you have but the non-turbo 617 and 616 Engines do not have the ratchet inside of the Timing Chain Tensioner and it is easier for them to jump a tooth.

Try lining up the Camshaft Timing Marks with the Bearing Tower timing mark and see what degrees the Pointer points at.

And, while the Valve Cover is off recheck your Valve adjustments.

When I had clouds of white smoke it was when I installed and managed to time My Volvo Fuel Injection Pump extremely late.
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  #19  
Old 11-07-2013, 11:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrUkrainian View Post
I think some fuel is leaking around one of the fuel injectors. It is always wet and moist after the engine has been running. I've heard that those collar nuts can sometimes loosen up and cause fuel leaks, but its not likely because they are torqued to something like 120ft lbs. And the tool to tighten them cost about 80$. That is probably the only fuel leak that I know of.
Fuel can leak between the to halves of the Injector if it is loose or the precision surfaces are not flat; like when some one only swaps the Injector Nozzles and does not lap them.
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  #20  
Old 11-08-2013, 11:23 AM
David S.
 
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Ill check the valves one more time today and I'll try to check out the timing.
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  #21  
Old 11-08-2013, 02:02 PM
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Recapping what you have posted...
YOU did nothing to the motor other than setting the valves.
Motor was running good before and isnt now.

Gotta repeat... get a fresh set of eyes on the issue. Something very simple is being overlooked.
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  #22  
Old 11-08-2013, 02:06 PM
David S.
 
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The motor wasn't running perfect, still started up kind of rough, I assumed it was a glow plug issue, but it ran alright. Now it misses a lot
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  #23  
Old 11-08-2013, 02:15 PM
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Ok, I stand corrected.

However, white, black, blue or any other color other than invisible is a combustion issue. Valves are the core of combustion.

If the motor wasnt reversed, if the new glow plugs are fully seated and tight, if all your injector lines are tight, what is left ? Valve adjustment.

Pls note most diesels run on a ~20:1 ratio. Things need to be nice and snug to achieve that level of compression.
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  #24  
Old 11-08-2013, 03:00 PM
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I am not sure how or what occured but you might check the injection pump timing. Just a check is not a big job. The engine could run like this if it were way off. See the archives for how. I doubt this is the issue but I would want to know it is not.
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  #25  
Old 11-08-2013, 03:29 PM
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Is it possible that any of your injector heat shields flipped over when you installed them?
Is the smoke blinding acrid smoke or sweet humid smoke?

Pull off your radiator cap and look for oil. When you pull your valve cover, look for water droplets.

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  #26  
Old 11-08-2013, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrUkrainian View Post
Alright, so I have a bunch of information on my other thread titled "300d 4 speed manual conversion" Basically, I did a valve adjustment during the conversion and now, my car starts up really rough, and it smokes white ALOT. It smells like it runs rich or something and it randomly misfires, no matter if the car is warm or not. I changed all of the glowplugs, but the one on #1 cyl was broken so I used one of my old ones. Now the glow plug light doesnt light up unless I turn the key 3 times. I did a compression test and all cylinders seem to have ok compression, all are above 300 except #5 is just under 300. I replaced the heat shield washers under the fuel injectors, hoping this would solve my problem. I also pulled the valve cover off again, thinking maybe I adjusted the valves wrong or something, but everything seems to be fine. I'm 16 and I dont know what to do anymore. Please help! Thanks. -David
Hello David
RELAX...

Here is how you should look at the vehicle now..

Ignore anything related to your 300d 4 speed manual conversion, and STOP mentioning it = it only stresses you and adds nothing to an engine performance issue..

***********************************

You performed a Basic valve adjustment, using dieselgiant DIY. = Important Diagnostic DATA...

The car starts up really rough with lots of white smoke. = Important Diagnostic DATA...

It smells like it runs rich or something and it randomly misfires, no matter if the car is warm or not. = Important Diagnostic DATA...

You changed all of the glow plugs, but the new unit on #1 cyl was broken/damaged/defective, and you replaced it with a used one. = Important Diagnostic DATA...

After replacing the damaged NEW #1 unit with a USED glow plug, the glow plug light doesn't light up unless the key is cycled three times. = Important Diagnostic DATA...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrUkrainian View Post
The compression for the cylinders was something like #1 360 #2 350 #3 320 #4 310 and number five was about 295. The engine was cold when I did the test. The injectors seemed to be fine. My cousin checked their spray patterns a little over a year ago. All seemed to be firing ok.
Piston cylinder compression test numbers are:
#1. 360 PSI
#2. 350 PSI
#3. 320 PSI
#4. 310 PSI
#5. 295 PSI


The cylinder head would be coming off if this was my engine.

The numbers are indicating (at least) a failing cylinder head gasket.
Diesel cylinder head issues thread

om615, 616, and 617 head bolt torque sequence


You replaced the heat shield washers under the fuel injectors. = Important Diagnostic DATA...

You re-checked the valve adjustment, and it seems OK..

You are 16 and are seeking advice, in what has become a stressful situation. = wisdom and letting members know your skill level.

.
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Last edited by whunter; 11-08-2013 at 04:27 PM.
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  #27  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:16 PM
David S.
 
Join Date: May 2013
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Could someone post the thread for the injection pump timing if you find it? And Phil, are you suggesting maybe bad head gasket? I haven't noticed any oil or coolant where it's not supposed to be. And I made sure to put the heat shields in the right way in the injector holes. I was almost sure that the heat shields were the problem because #4 injector didn't even have a heat shield in the first place! By no, stil runs the same
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  #28  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:31 PM
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David, Read what whunter wrote. Great advice here. First stop. Take a breath. Relax, and feel confident that what ever it is you will get to the bottom of it.

You posted the Compression numbers in your other thread: (I've made new threads too, at times because it seemed, best to headline with the current issue) but if you do so, you need to provide details.

"#1 360 #2 350 #3 320 #4 310 and number five was about 295. The engine was cold when I did the test."

You've also mentioned a "wet" injector, is it also injector number 4? If it is wet, try to isolate where the leak is. Dry it, totally, use rubbing alcohol to totally dry the injector, line, line cap nuts, all of it. Other things will work to, but rubbing alcohol is cheap and always in most houses, is a good degreaser, and dries fast.

When it's totally dry, have a friend start (or try to start) the engine as you watch that injector, isolate where the fuel is coming from.

Pump timing is one thing to look at, but it's important to first address what's wrong, or what changed between when it was running OK, but not great to running really crappy. If the pump timing was knocked off, it would be important to know HOW that happened, and address that root cause.

Is it possible injector number 4 has 2 heat shields in it now? That one was stuck in the bore or stuck to the injector?
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  #29  
Old 11-08-2013, 04:37 PM
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How many people have watched the video he posted? Something doesn't sound right with that engine when I listen to it. Seems like it has a metallic sound in the upper end. Can anyone identify that? The smoke does not look like coolant to me. It's unburned diesel I think.
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  #30  
Old 11-08-2013, 05:12 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by MrUkrainian View Post
Could someone post the thread for the injection pump timing if you find it? And Phil, are you suggesting maybe bad head gasket? I haven't noticed any oil or coolant where it's not supposed to be. And I made sure to put the heat shields in the right way in the injector holes. I was almost sure that the heat shields were the problem because #4 injector didn't even have a heat shield in the first place! By no, stil runs the same
Drip Timing Threads
Drip Timing Threads
Diesel Injection:
Diesel Injection:

Yes, you at least have a cylinder head gasket failing.
FYI: Coolant loss is only one possible indication, compression loss is more obvious and common.
Diesel cylinder head issues thread

Home Made Special Tools, This is where members can share how they made special tools


.

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Prototype R&D/testing:
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Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
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Automotive Technical Writer

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1983 300D
1984 190D
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