A Little Polishing
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Decided to tackle the valve cover on my spare engine and see if I could get it to shine up a bit. Turned out sort of OK...
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1384056216 I learned a lot in the process and did some things that cost a bunch of time in the long run and compromised the overall appearance, but it was very rough to start with so it's OK. On my current engine, I cleaned up and painted and cleared the valve cover. It looked really good for about a year, but it's now starting to look a little tired, chipped and discolored. I need to figure out what to do about the linkage before I install the valve cover on the car. It's a shame to put an ugly linkage on the polished valve cover. I'll probably do the oil filter cover and the vacuum pump next. |
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Know when I did the mono-valve plate, I didn't degrease it enough, so there is haze in the pores. Quote:
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Oh! Yep, those scratches can be a pain. I am surprised a wheel is courser than 200 grit. I be tempted to start with 600 and see how that went. If bad, can go back to courser paper? I too have scratches by the injectors, wonder why? Don't think I would have the guts to do the whole cover in a high polish though! :P |
How are you planning on keeping it that shiny?
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they simply paint wheels to keep them shiny...
maybe a clear coat would keep it nice and clean? |
I think they can do clear powdercoat, that would be super easy to keep clean
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Simpler DIY options are provided by Eastwoods too - I think they call it detailing spray stuff (or summit like that) |
As someone who does a lot of powder coating, I discourage clear powder coating large surfaces of polished metal whenever I can, as a polished finish doesn't leave much for powder to grab hold of, and once the finish is broken, it's not easy to fix without stripping, repolishing, and recoating. The end user is almost always better off just polishing the raw finish occasionally with one of the many products that leave a thin layer of anti-tarnish sealer behind. The defunct Zoop system comes to mind.
The only part of my cover that I polished was the star, which I then masked off for the base coat of a charcoal metallic powder coat. Clear coat was applied over the entire cover, including the polished star, so it is sealed completely. I have to say it looks pretty good, but seeing as how it is the only part under my hood that is even remotely nice looking, I don't exactly show it off much. |
There was discussion of this on a Mopar site I visit, relative to aluminum intake manifolds. Most said that clear engine paint yellows over time. Drats, I used that on my intake but haven't driven that car much. Most recommend a colored "aluminum" powder coat. Many guys there use Leonna (seach posts on A Body Mopar Forum - Home of Vintage Mopars like the Dodge Dart and Plymouth Barracuda). I ran across a photo of a Jeep w/ a M-B diesel that used red powder coat. That valve cover really stands out, probably too much. Maybe blue or yellow would look interesting. If you don't do anything, bare aluminum will corrode to pits and white powder (Al2O3), especially in humid areas. Not only is it ugly, but the last thing you want getting in your engine is aluminum oxide, which is 2nd hardest to diamond. I expect the factory had some coating on the valve covers.
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Remove the rubber seal from the oilcap, or leave the PCV hose open. The oily coating will keep it shiny forever :)
Seriously though, just wax it |
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