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#16
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0 means GP shorted
If your GP is reading 0 then it is shorted inside and bad.
Use this DIY from Diesel Giant to check your GPs. It has a lot of good pix. Mercedes Diesel Glow Plug Repair Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup 2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end |
#17
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Quote:
With cold weather rolling in to parts of the country, it might be easiest to replace the glow plugs as a set. Of course, if the carbon wasn't reamed from the glow plug hole and replaced then with Bosch glow plugs, they may have lived a short life.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#18
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Also, make sure your meter isn't set too high on the ohms,
that could also make it read 0. Set it down as low as it will go. I've never had a GP short out. I've just read that a shorted GP would read 0. What kind of meter would you need to read that? Jeff
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1984 300SD 300,000 miles--two tank WVO setup 2.88 diff & 500SEL anti-squat rear end |
#19
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Quote:
I have a better Meter then I normally use but I keep it locked up with the Good Tools and the Cheapie Meter is certainly good enough to tell if you have an open circuit in a Glow Plug. The other part of that I have not read of anyone having all of their Glow Plugs Fail at one time. That means no matter what Meter you are using you are comparing the readings you get from the Good ones to the possible bad ones. And, the Ohm Meter does catch a lot of bad GPs.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#20
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Quote:
When something has a short circuit it normally burns something and actually becomes an open circuit. When you check it with a Meter all you are going to know is you have an open Circuit. You are not going to know if some thing shorted out and burned causing the open circuit or something broke causing the open circuit. So my end of the argument was is that it is a open Circuit till you find out what caused the open circuit and that may or may not be a Short. Concerning what you will see on the Ohm Meter an open circuit will show up just as if the Probes are never connected to anything. If for some reason you had a Short in a Glow Plug that did not create an open circuit inside of the Glow Plug itself the Glow Plug Relay Fuse would burn. If you were to use your Ohm Meter to find that you would find a Glow Plug you would see the Number start somewhere because there is current flow and end up at some low or even zero resistance compared to the good Plugs On My Cheapie Harbor Freight Meter there if I set it on 200 Ohms on the screen I see a number 1 and three or 4 empty spaces show up and a decimal point to the right and another empty space. If I put the probes together I get a 00.9 Ohms meaning the My Probes and wires have that much resistance. If I use this Meter in theory I should subtract the 00.9 from my Reading. On my better Meter when I put the Probes together I get Zeros and I believe some Meters will show the infinity sign. I the end when you get a Meter read the Instructions. I have not read them for My cheapie Meters. And, I had not used the Batter Meter for over 20 Years on something that really needed a Better Meter so if something like that came up I would have to do some reading.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#21
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Well, I tired to take a video this morning of the starting issue.
Note: The car started fine all day yesterday morning to evening. I have a 20 mile drive to and from work everyday so there should be plenty of time to charge the battery. See the link below: 300SD Starting issues - YouTube Does this sound like a starter? Just seems like I might have a drain on the battery. I need to start checking amps at the fuse box I guess?
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1985 300SD 200K |
#22
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like my other post said....the lights on the dash pretty much clear it up. You either have a bad solenoid on the starter or the starter itself has bad field windings/armature/etc... the wiring seems fine
I was in the same spot two weeks ago. I put a new solenoid in the starter about a year and a half ago. Starter finally let out it's pre packaged smoke. pull the starter. test the solenoid, and then the starter itself.... my post from benzworld.....if that helps at all.. I think I fried my starter - Mercedes-Benz Forum and since it's not mentioned in that thread. put a set of jumper cables to 1..the positive cable to the lug not connected to anything else on the solenoid the negative jumper to a clean part of the casing 12v to the smallest lug on the solenoid which is just a signal wire 2..if that doesn't work, remove the big ol strap from the solenoid, and put 12v from a jumper cable to the starter again with it grounded to the casing. If #2 doesn't work, bad starter if #1 doesn't work, bad solenoid... in that order....kinda |
#23
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Quote:
Last night, I unhooked the battery cable and when I re-attached it this morning, the car started right up. By the way, what do you mean by the lights on the dash pretty much clear it up?
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1985 300SD 200K |
#24
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Here ya go if it indeed is the starter and you want to rebuild it.
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617StarterRebuild P.S. Army is now Stretch.
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"Senior Luna, your sense of humor is still loco... but we love it, anyway." -rickymay ____ "Your sense of humor is still loco... " -MBeige ____ "Señor Luna, your sense of humor is quite järjetön" -Delibes 1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod 2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die." |
#25
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Okay, just wanted to finalize the thread by explaining what was wrong with the car.
1. Power antenna was draining the battery, so its unplugged now. 2. Battery wouldn't hold a charge any longer, even though Advance Auto parts tester told me it was good. (That is the last time I trust that tester.) I assume this is because the battery was constantly being drained and recharged. Replaced the battery and left the antenna unplugged and everything is working perfectly. Now I need to get a new power antenna. Thank you everyone for all of your help and responses.
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1985 300SD 200K |
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