Hi Everyone,

My new-to-me '85 300TD was swapped engines with an '84 300TD before I purchased it. The engine runs great, but apparently the vacuum lines were all but ignored. It is a California emissions car.

As you can see here below, the lines going into the dash are cut off, except for the one to the ignition. You'll also see other suspicious and missing connections.

I have no power door locks (feels like I'm going to break the key off in the door when I unlock it) or climate control (defrost heat on high only).

I've got the vacuum diagram and I'm really really trying to make sense of this. But this thing is so hard to read. Is there a LEGIBLE COPY ANYWHERE?

In absence of that, could someone help me out by showing me where these basic lines should route to? I'm an admitted novice here, but I really want to learn this system.

I'd like to get this set up correctly, and also correct my harsh shifting problem.

PS I tested the pump and its working well; reading about 25psi.

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I'd suggest going out to the junk yard and finding an intact 85 and just pull all the vacuum stuff labeling it carefully. You probably don't need to take the the components (just the lines) so carefully label where they go. When I did my swap (617.952 into a 380SL) I pulled the entire vacuum system as one unit and moved it over to the SL from the donor car then mounted each component one at a time, extending and shortening each line as needed.

Here's an example of the labeling system I used to make sure the vacuum and electrical remained intact while working on it.



While you're at the JY snag a bunch of spare vacuum connectors. You might also want to have a spare check valve from the main vacuum line handy because the nipples tend to break off easily.

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Current Stable

• 380SL (diesel)
• Corvette C5
• Manx
• Baja Bug
• F350 Powerstroke
• Auburn Boattail Speedster replica

if you are fighting the vacuum in a door lock then most likely the sprung switching mechanism behind your door panel is stuck. there is a weak little device where the lock button engages and disengages from the actuator below.

you can find leaks using a mityvac. it seems to me that the only important vacuum connections at the engine are the vacuum pump - brake booster line and the shutoff signal from ignition switch to injection pump. i have a CA engine but most of the extra junk is disabled, so perhaps i missed another one.

hopefully these will help:

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'77 240D, 504H, OM617.952, etc.

Thanks for that diagram. I would love for the emissions stuff to be intact, but for now at least I'll be happy getting everything run correctly without.

I hooked up the main line to the green climate control line through the firewall, turned the engine on, and no change. I get no response from any of the climate control buttons on the dash. Am I correct in assuming there's a problem under the dash? The actuators or diaphrams or whatever controls the vents?

I guess I need to pull the dash apart too...

Here are photos I collected of other cars and my 85 CA 300D (w/ 81 engine, last 2). Much of the clutter is associated with the EGR valve, including the switch on the valve cover and even a box under the dash (required for tachometer). Many people disable/remove the EGR and turbo "air valve", since too complicated to maintain today. If it doesn't work perfect, it could even make your engine pollute more. You currently have no emissions checks in CA, but don't toss the stuff because who knows.

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