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  #16  
Old 11-16-2013, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
with THAT much space between the bottom nut and the top, you should have PLENTY of adjustment, but most likely what's happening is, the bottom nut spins down, and gives you the appearance of space, then when you turn the actual adjuster nut, the top one, the valve is just spinning taking up the space from the lock nut (lower).
you need to GENTLY get ahold of the hex on the spring retainer, and hold it still as you spin the adjuster nut down to make the gap.
Exactly. I noticed the large gap as well. Both nuts have to be touching for them to lock.

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  #17  
Old 11-16-2013, 05:36 PM
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FYI

Quote:
Originally Posted by DeliveryValve View Post
Hopefully Roy got you straightened out. But I suspect you are spinning the whole valve and not adjustment is being made.


.
We had a nice chat today..

This thread shows how to make the third wrench.
Home made Valve adjustment wrench info

Since several of my Hazet wrenches vanished.

I choose to buy both a 27mm and 30mm box end wrench, and cut a 20mm slot to make custom line wrenches.


.
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Last edited by whunter; 11-16-2013 at 08:55 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11-28-2013, 05:26 PM
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It's always reassuring talking with Roy . Yup, what I was calling the "bottom nut" was actually the middle nut and the 27 mm REAL bottom nut was stuck onto the middle one. Roy gave me instructions on making the third wrench myself, but I ended up using a screwdriver instead as shown in the picture. What a difference it was! I got it adjusted right off the bat.



The red arrow points at the screwdriver tip...

Attached Thumbnails
Valve adjustment issues... when will this valve ever co-operate???-valves-eyes-002.jpg   Valve adjustment issues... when will this valve ever co-operate???-valves-eyes-003.jpg  
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  #19  
Old 11-28-2013, 07:34 PM
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Just be damned careful with screwdriver tip. As noted, I broke a valve guide screwing with that.
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  #20  
Old 11-28-2013, 07:36 PM
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I'm glad it worked for you, but you need to be REALLY careful doing this... as even SLIGHTLY too much pressure on the screwdriver can crack the valve guide causing a catastrophic mess requiring the head to come off..
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  #21  
Old 11-28-2013, 07:53 PM
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Thanks for the warnings ! I just gently but persistently wiggled the screwdriver in there such that it held the bottom nut in place. I'll definitely make up a wrench for doing the valves in the 'SD, though.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #22  
Old 11-29-2013, 03:20 AM
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Smoker's got his thread on the subject somewhere (I can't find it now grrrrr)

But here's mine

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276144-om-617-manifold-oil.html
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  #23  
Old 11-30-2013, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Stretch View Post
Smoker's got his thread on the subject somewhere (I can't find it now grrrrr)

But here's mine

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/276144-om-617-manifold-oil.html
Hah -- I've been following Smoker's thread . I should have known better -- but at least I got it done! And now I know not to do it again.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #24  
Old 11-30-2013, 10:48 AM
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IIRCC I was able to hold that 27 mm nut (on the one valve I had trouble with) using either an adjustable wrench or channel lock pliers. This was a few years ago on my 83 300D so my memory may be off.
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  #25  
Old 11-30-2013, 11:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by funola View Post
IIRCC I was able to hold that 27 mm nut (on the one valve I had trouble with) using either an adjustable wrench or channel lock pliers. This was a few years ago on my 83 300D so my memory may be off.
To the dark side that way leads .

I did a lot of reading before I did my expensive and time consuming screwup, but made the mistake of not having an FSM.

Once you have one of these valves out, you can see just how fragile the guide setup is. This has the longest section of 'unhoused' guide area that I can remember seeing.

That's not a design issue, for what a guide does in normal operation it's perfectly fine, it does however leave very little forgiveness for lateral stress from the top, which is concentrated on that point where the guide enters the head.

I now have a ritual of petting that bottom nut tool every time I open that drawer in the box and saying nice things to it. Paid $92 for a used set of 3 Hazet's and it's $$s well spent.
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  #26  
Old 11-30-2013, 01:33 PM
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A little off topic. What do the majority of the members use for no-go measurement on both intake-exhaust? Is 1mm over too much?
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  #27  
Old 12-01-2013, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by my123ca View Post
A little off topic. What do the majority of the members use for no-go measurement on both intake-exhaust? Is 1mm over too much?
Given that the specs for the turbo are 0.1 mm for the intake and 0.35 mm for the exhaust... yeah, 1 mm off would be scary . To paraphrase Brian Carlton on the matter, CLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLATTACLAT TACLATTACLATTACLATTA


I just loosen the valve, lightly tighten it on to the feeler, back it off a tiny bit, tighten it there, and make sure that the valve is still good by trying to slide the feeler through. If it is off, I just fiddle with it.
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1982 300SD -- 211k, Texas car, tranny issues ____ 1979 240D 4-speed 234k -- turbo and tuned IP, third world taxi hot rod

2 Samuel 12:13: "David said to Nathan, “I have sinned against the Lord.” And Nathan said to David, “The Lord also has put away your sin; you shall not die."
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  #28  
Old 12-01-2013, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
... If it is off, I just fiddle with it.
Nice one - if you take it out of context!!!!
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  #29  
Old 12-01-2013, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jooseppi Luna View Post
Given that the specs for the turbo are 0.1 mm for the intake and 0.35 mm for the exhaust... yeah, 1 mm off would be scary to slide the feeler through.
forgot the decimal point 0.2mm for the intake 0.45mm for the exhaust ok?
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  #30  
Old 12-01-2013, 08:52 AM
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I don't use a number, I use the slight drag/resistance....with any valve adjustment not just these beasties.

If I'm feeling less than confident I'll try the next larger gauge and make sure it's a no-go.

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