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  #16  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:33 PM
JHZR2's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,494
Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
you need to get an official NAPA or better brand 8mm hex short socket, in 1/2" drive with an extension on there...
you need STEADY PRESSURE, NOT IMPACT!!! but ONLY with a TOP quality hex socket.
TOP QUALITY!
I was working this today, on my 240 D, because they've never been done. Both 8mm bolt holes were exceptionally clean.





Sprayed with penetrant too.

I ran an SK top quality Allen, on a 12" snap-on ratchet (your point of needing 1/2" drive noted; I have 3/8). Both bolts moved the slightest bit, like let's call it one degree, then wouldn't go any further.

As I hadn't read your comment here on constant pressure (which is why I'm replying here, as it's good guidance), I put my 3/8" impact on it. That's good for what, 200ft-lb max, likely less?

So I stopped. I have an 18" or so 3/8" breaker. Obviously I can extend it with a pipe.

Question is, how much is too much? Is there a good rule of thumb for when I'm going to do damage?

When I did mounts on my '82, the bolts came out easily. I was expecting the same since this car is so clean and low mileage.

Id hate to ruin the bolts. Kent from Washington says that a rough idle or a compressed mount can beat the threads such that they're damaged and don't want to comply. The only complaint on this car is that at slow idle it's rough in drive with AC on. Fast idle and driving it is smooth as glass. But if this theory of Kent's is true, there could be damage on the threads.

I'd expect these to come right out. I'm surprised they won't. How long of a breaker is typically used?

Thanks!
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #17  
Old 06-09-2018, 07:47 PM
okyoureabeast's Avatar
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: North America
Posts: 1,392
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
I was working this today, on my 240 D, because they've never been done. Both 8mm bolt holes were exceptionally clean.





Sprayed with penetrant too.

I ran an SK top quality Allen, on a 12" snap-on ratchet (your point of needing 1/2" drive noted; I have 3/8). Both bolts moved the slightest bit, like let's call it one degree, then wouldn't go any further.

As I hadn't read your comment here on constant pressure (which is why I'm replying here, as it's good guidance), I put my 3/8" impact on it. That's good for what, 200ft-lb max, likely less?

So I stopped. I have an 18" or so 3/8" breaker. Obviously I can extend it with a pipe.

Question is, how much is too much? Is there a good rule of thumb for when I'm going to do damage?

When I did mounts on my '82, the bolts came out easily. I was expecting the same since this car is so clean and low mileage.

Id hate to ruin the bolts. Kent from Washington says that a rough idle or a compressed mount can beat the threads such that they're damaged and don't want to comply. The only complaint on this car is that at slow idle it's rough in drive with AC on. Fast idle and driving it is smooth as glass. But if this theory of Kent's is true, there could be damage on the threads.

I'd expect these to come right out. I'm surprised they won't. How long of a breaker is typically used?

Thanks!
Those look fine.

My mounts on my 300D were meh. Not quite smooshed jello but not new either.

I was worried the sockets wouldn't be friendly. They were and came out without a problem. I was really surprised.

You should be fine too. Just throw some penetrating oil on them and attack with a regular socket first.

They should pop off without a problem.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yak View Post
Going back to the original post: "Can you get the vac to blow instead?" No. Vacuums are low pressure so they by nature "suck" and nature abhors them.
1984 380SL
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  #18  
Old 06-09-2018, 09:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okyoureabeast View Post
Those look fine.

My mounts on my 300D were meh. Not quite smooshed jello but not new either.

I was worried the sockets wouldn't be friendly. They were and came out without a problem. I was really surprised.

You should be fine too. Just throw some penetrating oil on them and attack with a regular socket first.

They should pop off without a problem.
That's what I did. Car is jacked up, high quality 8mm is in there.

But given that my 82 was a breeze, its curious that both moved a bit and stopped, and that neither show any sign of budging with 200+ lbs of force (me) on a 12" ratchet. So I dont want to go too far and cause more problems...
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #19  
Old 06-09-2018, 11:53 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,409
First, to check sag in the rubber, I touch the bolt w/ my index finger. If the first joint goes past the K-frame, they aren't excessively sagged. With cheap India mounts, after a year or two the bolt head will be almost sticking out the hole.

I can get that bolt out with a 1/2" Craftsman socket wrench. But, those are ones I installed, and I coated the threads w/ anti-seize as I do anytime a steel bolt goes into aluminum. Definitely do so in NJ. The first time, I probably used a 1/2" breaker bar and long extension, and full force pushing and pulling with both hands. It also helps to go cw & ccw, since that helps corrosion particles fall out, especially if you can spray some penetrant up into the threads.

If you booger the head, no worries. You could always drill the head off from below, then lift the engine enough to slide the mount out, then grab the bolt w/ vise-grips.
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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans
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  #20  
Old 06-10-2018, 12:45 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Long Beach,CA
Posts: 23,348
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxb View Post
I just got this car, so it was the PO who had been spilling fuel all over them when he was replacing filters. After this job, I'll be very careful about covering them.

Also, just to be clear, the Lemforder mounts are $25 each on peachparts. It looked to me that they had originally had the benz tri-star logo on them, but that the logo had been scuffed off since they were selling them third party. You still got a good deal at the PnP, but I don't think anyone should be paying $150 for mounts.
Yes it has been well established that the Dealer Motor Mounts for the 617.952 are made in Turkey and made by Phoenix. The Lemforder Mounts have the Mercedes Star ground off but usuall still have the Phoenix Logo on them which reminds me a bit of the Chevrolet "bow tie" logo.
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Stuck Motor Mount Bolts-phoenix-logo.jpg  
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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  #21  
Old 06-10-2018, 04:45 PM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 3,494
Lol, my bolts stuck?!? I was too fast to jump to conclusions.

It was 37 years, nothing else...



18" breaker bar let me easily break the seal.

Now the question? A bit of nickel anti seize, even if wiped on and then off, on the threads? The head does the clamping and is a no no, but a tiny bit on the leading threads?
__________________
Own:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (162k)
1998 Chevrolet S-10 ZR2 (62K)
2011 BMW 135i cv (14k)
2014 Honda Odyssey (6k)
2015 Honda Accord Hybrid (5k)
Had:
2008 VW Rabbit (70k)
2004 SAAB 9-3 (83k)
1991 BMW 318i (183K)
1983 300D (228K) (wrecked by at-fault uninsured driver)
1985 300D (233K) (now in FL)
1994 Acura Integra (188k) (Rusted out)
1992 Toyota 4Runner (72k) (Rusted out)
1990 Daihatsu Rocky (??) (No parts)
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  #22  
Old 06-10-2018, 06:12 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,341
Just went through this; a few pointers. The passenger side motor mount bolt on the 1984 300DT had FALLEN OUT of the car!

When I installed the new lemforder motor mounts, I first cleaned out the thread using a thread chaser then used blue loctite on both bolts. In addition, I am going to periodically check the bolts for tightness to make sure they don't FALL OUT AGAIN!!

I'm now sourcing new diesel injectors and planning to set the IP timing and the ALDA to try and smooth this beast out.......
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1991 560SEL, 1984 300DT
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