'95 300D - no ability to shift
 

I'm thinking of buying a '95 300D that has been sitting for 2 years. The current owner says his wife was driving down the road when it fell into what appears to be neutral.

The car currently has blocks on the wheels to prevent it from rolling. I crawled under the car and found the bushings to be missing on both ends of the shift rod but it still was moving the lever on the transmission housing.

I have other '92 300D's and this car doesn't feel the same when you shift it - like it's disconnected. Is there another linkage inside the transmission that could have failed?

I'm assuming if I buy this car I will have to drop the transmission and find out why the shifter has no effect.

Thoughts? Should I pass on the car? I've done other transmission work before - but all exterior things like repairing a failed governor, aux pump and filters/etc.

Thanks,

-John

Didn't you ask about this car already? http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/346322-95-300d-whats-worth-should-i-buy.html

Sixto
87 300D

Yes - same car. Just wondering specifically about the transmission on a '95 300D and if there is a linkage inside the transmission housing that could fail causing the car not to be able to shift and to appear to be in neutral.

I haven't removed a transmission before and I'm worried I may be getting over my head.

-John

This might help though it's a 722.3, not a 722.4 like you have - http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/345809-help-broken-shift-lever.html

I doubt that's what's broken if it happened while rolling. Even slamming the tranny into P at speed will damage other parts of the transmission but unlikely that rod. It's tight quarters in a 124 but maybe the bushingless shift rod fell out of the bell crank or the bell crank came off the transmission.

Sixto
87 300D

Thanks Sixto. I'm taking ownership of the car tomorrow. Another 300d saved.

from other thread: maybe its just a gummed up valve that needs cleaning.

So - I checked the basic/normal stuff people report:

- shift bushings
- drive shaft connection to transmission

Everything seemed fine and I was beginning to feel disappointed that it may be a serious internal transmission failure.

To distract myself I decided to do some easy stuff like swap the flat tires in the rear. And as I was pulling the rear passenger wheel I said to myself "wow - this hub is turning really easily - that's odd".

After looking at it more closely as I turned the rear passenger wheel I noticed the shaft going to the wheel was turning oddly. Reached to grab the shaft and it fell off at the wheel side.

And there you go - turns out the transmission was fine the whole time but the shaft fractured where it connects to the wheel hub.

Anyone else seen a shaft like that just break?

-John

The OM606 produces more torque than you can imagine :)

How about some pictures?

Replacing a 124 axle isn't a cakewalk but it beats dropping the tranny.

Sixto
87 300D

Here is the picture of the shaft broken off from the CV joint.

Where do I find a new replacement? I've checked the normal places and one site doesn't have one for sale and the other mentions their part is for non-ASD E300's - I'm pretty sure my car has ASD (dash has an ASD light and an ASR "!" light).

Thanks,

-John

Good used is a better bet since new are like $600 each. Lots of debate whether aftermarket and rebuilders can and do use new balls. Regrinding balls removes the heat treating, or something like that.

Sixto
87 300D

I have a '93 300D parts car - that also has an ASD light and a "!" indicator on the dash.

Can I use this CV shaft? Is it compatible with the '95 300E?

-John

Same axle shaft between your cars and left and right. No difference ASR, ASD or open diff.

Sixto
87 300D

Excellent - thanks!

What makes this task hard? I've seen a few write-ups on it and it doesn't seem terribly difficult. What am I missing?

You will need a special tool to remove the bolts at the diff case.

I recall it's called a triple square, 10mm for the non V-8s.

Jim

My car has a clean underside so the $10 triple square bit set from the parts store did the job. A rusty underside might require a better quality bit. You also need a suitable socket for the nut at the wheel end of the shaft. Hopefully you can jam something through the open CV joint basket to hold the stub while loosening the nut, if the brakes and/or wheel chocks aren't enough. I don't know if the warning applies to MBs but in FWD cars in which the axle goes though the hub, you're not supposed to set the weight of the car on the hub if there isn't an axle in place. You might consider moving the broken off stub to the parts car so you can roll it.

Sixto
87 300D