Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help



Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 11-17-2013, 01:37 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,752
Odds and Ends

Got the Mercedes on the road!

Thank you to those who helped!

So exhausted! Too exhausted to post pictures... Will update when rested. For now, like to get a couple things addressed.

First issue was the the throttle linkage at the arc adjustment. Just pushed all the way to the driver's side for now. Figure the specification is in the manual, but any tricks that I should know?

Second, got a major vacuum leak, but all the lines are hooked up. Is there supposed to be a seal between the brake booster and the master cylinder? Don't recall there being one, but all I can think of...

Third, any reason not to drive with a major vacuum leak? I don't mind it shifting hard, just don't want to do damage...

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 11-17-2013, 01:44 AM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,362
YES

Yes, there is a CRITICAL a O-ring between the brake booster and the master cylinder.
You can lose power brake boost if the O-ring is missing.

.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 11-17-2013, 01:57 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,752
Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
Yes, there is a CRITICAL a O-ring between the brake booster and the master cylinder.
You can lose power brake boost if the O-ring is missing.

.
Thank you so very much!

Well, I don't have it as I said, and brakes are fine. Wondered why a bit hard, but then haven't driven in a long time and have driven autos without power brakes.

Link?
__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 11-17-2013, 01:59 AM
fashion victim immunizer
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: oakland
Posts: 930
is there a part #, or dimensions for that o-ring? i have to pull the brake booster soon to replace a sway bar bushing. i know that o-ring exists and needs care, but i've never seen dimensions or a part #
__________________
1981 NA 300D 310k miles
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 11-17-2013, 02:02 AM
whunter's Avatar
Moderator
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Metro Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 17,362
Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
Thank you so very much!

Well, I don't have it as I said, and brakes are fine. Wondered why a bit hard, but then haven't driven in a long time and have driven autos without power brakes.

Link?
My concern is flexing master cylinder open/close the leak = unpredictable variable brake application.

The O-ring is MB# 0049973245
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

.
__________________
ASE Master Mechanic
asemastermechanic@juno.com

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1980 240D
1983 300D
1984 190D
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 11-17-2013, 02:07 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,752
Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
My concern is flexing master cylinder open/close the leak = unpredictable variable brake application.

The O-ring is MB# 0049973245
Pelican Parts - Automotive Parts and Accessories - Porsche & BMW

.
Thank you so very much!

Huh?

Uggg, a Mercedes part. Will have to give Tom a call as I am a member.
__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 11-17-2013, 02:22 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,752
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepstar View Post
is there a part #, or dimensions for that o-ring? i have to pull the brake booster soon to replace a sway bar bushing. i know that o-ring exists and needs care, but i've never seen dimensions or a part #
May I make some suggestions?

If you do not already have a set of extensions, buy a set. Ditto with a universal joint. Craftsman makes a very nice set that has extensions, universal joints, and adapters; saved me many a time! You will need a socket, then joint, then at least a 6" if not also an aditional 3", extension, preferably 3/8" drive so nice and thin. You will have to unplug the cruise control. Hopefully you have small thin hands to help guide this contraption to the top left nut. Absolute pain to get at, especially when putting the nuts back on! I bent the bracket slightly to gain just enough space. Getting the booster back in will also be a pain. Get the nuts just started, then install the cotter pin and clip. The clip might put up a fight. Put the pin in from the left so you have space to get the clip in. Wiggle until the pin goes through.

B.T.W., don't need to remove the master cylinder!

If you are replacing the anti-sway bar bushings, are your U.C.A. bushings and ball joints good? If not, make the bushing job much easier. Can give you tips on that too!
__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 11-17-2013, 02:35 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Sacramento, CA
Posts: 2,623
I used a regular round cross-section O-ring (from a Harbor Freight kit) with a rebuilt MC because the square one that came with it seemed a bit too thin to seal well.

It seems many 1990+ cars have a vacuum seal between the MC and booster. That allows the booster to be much thinner. In 60's U.S. cars, there is an inner bellows around the brake rod to make the seal. The disadvantage of the design in our cars is that a leak past the MC cylinder sucks brake fluid inside the booster, rather than just running down the firewall. I use DOT 5, so less concern with what the fluid will do.
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 11-17-2013, 02:48 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,752
Quote:
Originally Posted by BillGrissom View Post
I used a regular round cross-section O-ring (from a Harbor Freight kit) with a rebuilt MC because the square one that came with it seemed a bit too thin to seal well.

It seems many 1990+ cars have a vacuum seal between the MC and booster. That allows the booster to be much thinner. In 60's U.S. cars, there is an inner bellows around the brake rod to make the seal. The disadvantage of the design in our cars is that a leak past the MC cylinder sucks brake fluid inside the booster, rather than just running down the firewall. I use DOT 5, so less concern with what the fluid will do.
Thank you so very much for the reply!

What kit?
__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 11-17-2013, 11:04 PM
fashion victim immunizer
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: oakland
Posts: 930
curious, are you saying that you removed the brake booster with the MC still attached? everything i've read about doing the sway bay job says to pull the MC from the booster, push it aside and then lift the booster out

Quote:
Originally Posted by Adriel View Post
May I make some suggestions?

If you do not already have a set of extensions, buy a set. Ditto with a universal joint. Craftsman makes a very nice set that has extensions, universal joints, and adapters; saved me many a time! You will need a socket, then joint, then at least a 6" if not also an aditional 3", extension, preferably 3/8" drive so nice and thin. You will have to unplug the cruise control. Hopefully you have small thin hands to help guide this contraption to the top left nut. Absolute pain to get at, especially when putting the nuts back on! I bent the bracket slightly to gain just enough space. Getting the booster back in will also be a pain. Get the nuts just started, then install the cotter pin and clip. The clip might put up a fight. Put the pin in from the left so you have space to get the clip in. Wiggle until the pin goes through.

B.T.W., don't need to remove the master cylinder!

If you are replacing the anti-sway bar bushings, are your U.C.A. bushings and ball joints good? If not, make the bushing job much easier. Can give you tips on that too!
__________________
1981 NA 300D 310k miles
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 11-18-2013, 12:44 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Mesa, Arizona
Posts: 1,752
Quote:
Originally Posted by sleepstar View Post
curious, are you saying that you removed the brake booster with the MC still attached? everything i've read about doing the sway bay job says to pull the MC from the booster, push it aside and then lift the booster out
I mean the latter. What I read is the master cylinder had to be pulled entirely which I couldn't do. I mean, I don't have a spare reservoir cap to make a brake bleeder, so couldn't open the system.

__________________
Current fleet:

1985 Mercedes-Benz 280TE - Waiting for heart surgery.

1985 Mercedes-Benz 300TDT - Rear ended 23 September 2016 and now looking for a new home.

1979 Mercedes-Benz 300TD - Parted out.

1964 Volkswgen Beetle - Vater's since September 1968 and undergoing a restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Sunroof Squareback with F.I. - in need of full restoration.

1971 Volkswagen Squareback automatic with F.I. - Vacationing with her caretaker until he is in better health.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:53 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page