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  #16  
Old 12-27-2009, 07:25 PM
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That's called the wheel hub. The axle shaft should be pushed inward, and should slide out that way without too much aggravation. The hub however is pressed in, and you will break the bearing apart as you withdraw it (using a slide hammer) from the wheel carrier. If you want to take the wheel carrier and hub off as a unit, you need to unbolt the 5 links on the rear side. Then you can take the whole unit off to get the hub pressed out at a machine shop.

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  #17  
Old 12-29-2009, 11:45 AM
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Smile W124 wheel bearing reassembly

Fantastic!! Thank You.
I spent hours hammering the hell out of the thing with a slide hammer. Once I got your reply, I followed your advice and stripped the part out. It took 30 minutes to pull the bearing and replace with the use of a press belonging to a farmer friend of mine and now it's back on . definitely the ONLY way to do the job. However.... I cannot for the life of me reassemble the handbrake mechanism. Does anyone have any photo's/advice as to how to put this all back together??? It was stripped out by a friend whilst I was making some coffee for us both, when I returned, it was all carefully laid out in the tray. Now my colleague is laid up in bed with the flu and I am struggling to get this little job done before I freeze to death in my garage! My SL is still outside and so far it has frosted on her, rained on her and now right at this moment it is throwing down snow the size of golfballs on her. She spent seven months in dry storage this year because of work commitments in Europe and never moved. I put her outside to do this job for one day (I Thought) and the heavens have emptied on her. ADVICE: Don't come to England in the winter!
Photos and advice please?
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  #18  
Old 12-30-2009, 11:40 PM
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I looked for a good DIY on the parking brake but found zilch. I have relied on my old Haynes manual for the 190E, since they're all very similar. Hopefully you've gotten it figured out by now.
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  #19  
Old 01-07-2010, 08:35 AM
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Smile Thanks

Thanks for your help. I have manged to put her back together and it even works... ! Lets hope the other side doesnt fail in my life time.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Paul
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  #20  
Old 07-03-2011, 01:20 AM
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I like the tip about loosening and rotating the dust shield. I had not thought of that one.
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  #21  
Old 08-30-2011, 04:12 PM
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Rotating the shield

So, i'm having some problems with the "how to"

1st, I cant see how i can rotate the shield as there are several pieces of metal in the way after unscrewing the three hex bolts in the shield, pics below

2nd. How do i get the parking brake wire out of that tiny hole in the hub ?

3rd. Can i just pull the brake wire out when I've unscrewed the retaining bolt for the park break or do i need to rotate then end?

This is on a 91 300CE





and a vidoe ^^

Video on YouTube
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  #22  
Old 05-10-2012, 12:02 PM
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I'm in the process of redoing the rear suspension on my '87. This is a great link on the process, but does anyone have the torque specs on the various parts? I haven't been able to find the specs.

210 350 21 53 - Control arm strut
210 350 33 06 - Control arm strut rear
210 350 38 06 - Thrust arm
210 350 34 06 - Camber strut

And the axle nut

Thanks!
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  #23  
Old 05-10-2012, 05:13 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by mkrazy1 View Post
I'm in the process of redoing the rear suspension on my '87. This is a great link on the process, but does anyone have the torque specs on the various parts? I haven't been able to find the specs.

210 350 21 53 - Control arm strut
210 350 33 06 - Control arm strut rear
210 350 38 06 - Thrust arm
210 350 34 06 - Camber strut

And the axle nut

Thanks!
You have e-mail.


.
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  #24  
Old 07-16-2012, 05:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whunter View Post
You have e-mail.


.
whunter, do you have these torque specs? I'm doing this job this weekend...

thanks in advance!
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  #25  
Old 09-17-2012, 09:41 PM
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Exclamation some tips for removal

Here are a few tips for removing ball joint/tie rod ends that you don't want to ruin.
1. Don't use a pickle fork to seperate them
2. Strike the spindle/pitmen arm or what even the ball type joint is inserted into with a hammer. The impact/vibration will usually seperate them with no damage to the ball type joint. I have a hammer attachment for my air hammer that is perfect for this job.
3. When disassembling the parking break take a picture of it first. If that is not possible do one wheel at a time so you can always look at the otherside if you forget how it is assembled.
When whacking the joints apart leave the nut on there a few turns to protect threads. Same for the axle shaft.
5. Torqure specs are "Good and Tight". It's usually a good idea to preload the suspension before tighening any joints with a bushing ie. Control arms. That way there is no preload,, on The bushing when the car is sitting on it's own weight. They tend to squeek when they are tighended with the suspension fully extended and fail prematurely.

Hope you find these tips helpful,
-Jim
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  #26  
Old 11-18-2013, 07:30 PM
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Bump.

I'm doing this and pressing in and out the bearing is a chore that REQUIRES a large press and a HUGE snap ring tool... ill put them in the tool rental forum

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