That's called the wheel hub. The axle shaft should be pushed inward, and should slide out that way without too much aggravation. The hub however is pressed in, and you will break the bearing apart as you withdraw it (using a slide hammer) from the wheel carrier. If you want to take the wheel carrier and hub off as a unit, you need to unbolt the 5 links on the rear side. Then you can take the whole unit off to get the hub pressed out at a machine shop.

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Prost!

Fantastic!! Thank You.
I spent hours hammering the hell out of the thing with a slide hammer. Once I got your reply, I followed your advice and stripped the part out. It took 30 minutes to pull the bearing and replace with the use of a press belonging to a farmer friend of mine and now it's back on . definitely the ONLY way to do the job. However.... I cannot for the life of me reassemble the handbrake mechanism. Does anyone have any photo's/advice as to how to put this all back together??? It was stripped out by a friend whilst I was making some coffee for us both, when I returned, it was all carefully laid out in the tray. Now my colleague is laid up in bed with the flu and I am struggling to get this little job done before I freeze to death in my garage! My SL is still outside and so far it has frosted on her, rained on her and now right at this moment it is throwing down snow the size of golfballs on her. She spent seven months in dry storage this year because of work commitments in Europe and never moved. I put her outside to do this job for one day (I Thought) and the heavens have emptied on her. ADVICE: Don't come to England in the winter!
Photos and advice please?

I looked for a good DIY on the parking brake but found zilch. I have relied on my old Haynes manual for the 190E, since they're all very similar. Hopefully you've gotten it figured out by now.

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Prost!

Thanks for your help. I have manged to put her back together and it even works... ! Lets hope the other side doesnt fail in my life time.
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Paul

I like the tip about loosening and rotating the dust shield. I had not thought of that one.

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http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/l...aman/Fleet.jpg

Peach Parts W124.128 User Group.

80 280SL
85 300SD
87 300TD
92 300D 2.5 Turbo
92 300TE 4Matic

So, i'm having some problems with the "how to"

1st, I cant see how i can rotate the shield as there are several pieces of metal in the way after unscrewing the three hex bolts in the shield, pics below

2nd. How do i get the parking brake wire out of that tiny hole in the hub ?

3rd. Can i just pull the brake wire out when I've unscrewed the retaining bolt for the park break or do i need to rotate then end?

This is on a 91 300CE





and a vidoe ^^

Video on YouTube

I'm in the process of redoing the rear suspension on my '87. This is a great link on the process, but does anyone have the torque specs on the various parts? I haven't been able to find the specs.

210 350 21 53 - Control arm strut
210 350 33 06 - Control arm strut rear
210 350 38 06 - Thrust arm
210 350 34 06 - Camber strut

And the axle nut

Thanks!

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You have e-mail.


.

whunter, do you have these torque specs? I'm doing this job this weekend...

thanks in advance!

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"Fubu" - 1993 500E 199/271 (103K) 124.036
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"Punch" - 1997 Porsche 993TT (34K) Hang on!

Here are a few tips for removing ball joint/tie rod ends that you don't want to ruin.
1. Don't use a pickle fork to seperate them
2. Strike the spindle/pitmen arm or what even the ball type joint is inserted into with a hammer. The impact/vibration will usually seperate them with no damage to the ball type joint. I have a hammer attachment for my air hammer that is perfect for this job.
3. When disassembling the parking break take a picture of it first. If that is not possible do one wheel at a time so you can always look at the otherside if you forget how it is assembled.
When whacking the joints apart leave the nut on there a few turns to protect threads. Same for the axle shaft.
5. Torqure specs are "Good and Tight". It's usually a good idea to preload the suspension before tighening any joints with a bushing ie. Control arms. That way there is no preload,, on The bushing when the car is sitting on it's own weight. They tend to squeek when they are tighended with the suspension fully extended and fail prematurely.

Hope you find these tips helpful,
-Jim

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95' C280 - Artic White
88' 924s - Guards Red Sold
98' Durango SLT - Silver
93' 740i Tripple Black Sold
95' 900s Conv - Red
96' XJ6 - Black - For Sale
95' 325i Convertible - Montreal Blue My Project Car

Bump.

I'm doing this and pressing in and out the bearing is a chore that REQUIRES a large press and a HUGE snap ring tool... ill put them in the tool rental forum

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!